Broken Engine Parts Thread

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one2dmax

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Well, I figured I may as well start a thread of destruction. Maybe it even needs to be a sticky!

Here's what happens when you drop a valve (or two). This was taken out of a customer bike this last weekend (we put a stock trade in I had taken in on trade for one of my 1300's).

He said that he and a few friends were cruising down the highway at about 70 when a car pulled up next to them and waved to him that he was smoking out the exhaust. He saw the problem but didn't hear anything but as he started to pull over the engine locked up at the last second.

Nice damage. I'll try to get pics of the head too. Engine had right at 40K miles and didn't look abused at all.

Sean Morley
 

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I don't know Sean, that piston looks salvageable. lol
 
i've fixed worse with some superglue and duct tape.

:rofl_200:
 
This is my friend Jim's bike I talked about in my "Cratered 97 V-Max" thread. I was one of the group on that fateful ride. It had to be a fluke as he never abused that bike and maintained it religiously. Of the 7 or so bikes he has, the Max is his favorite.

I told him about Sean so he trucked it to Wichita from the Dallas area for the engine swap.
 
Sounds like you guys made it home OK. Nice to meet both of you by the way.

Sean
 
Sean, you met Jim and Jack. I've been riding with these two since 1969. I didn't make the trip. How often do you meet a small group of riders (9-10) where over half (5) have a Vmax? Used to be 6 but one sold his to get a ZX-14 to go with his ZX-10.

Thanks for helping him. He really loves his Max.
 
Just take that piston out, it will be faster due to less weight! Thats one way to lose some weight on this pig.
Thats an easy fix.. here is whacca do...

Put the engine back together, run down to the local auto parts store and buy some seafoam. Add the whole can and start it up.. Its going to smoke for awhile dont worry about that.... Find ya one of them Booosa Brothas and have em do one of there HIGH RPM tune ups wooo lahh all fixed!!:eusa_dance:
After that, have MALEKO adjust the carb floats

I bet V-BOOST caused this problem:confused2:
 
:rofl_200: And a Lankee Yankee did the dirty deed, huh:eusa_dance:

Hmmm the only way we can blame this on a burrito is if that customer of yours was running Cornballs VGAS carbs and sucked a burrito in at the Tacohell drive thru.:confused2:
Ya see another downside of VGAS...
VGAS is a burrito stealing POS!
 
Hmmm the only way we can blame this on a burrito is if that customer of yours was running Cornballs VGAS carbs and sucked a burrito in at the Tacohell drive thru.:confused2:
Ya see another downside of VGAS...
VGAS is a burrito stealing POS!

I hear ya! So much for soul food:eusa_dance:
 
So my engine is dead fo good.
Try to beat you all with my engine failure :p

Diagnosis:
One of the nut from the rod unscrewed and fall nito the oil pump gear.
Pump cant work at full speed and it was't enough oil to lubricate
the crank at high rpm.

It's not funny when you flying 220km/h on highway and get the rear wheel
blocked.
I've almost shited my pants and saw the arms of DEATH...not funny...

Now have work for 2 months minimum.

Engine have a 22km and work like swiis watch.
More intresting is that i was inside the engine 3 months ago to fix second gear issue and dont even touch the upper parts of engine.
Lesson from now one: if you have cases split- CHECK THE WHOLE DAMM THING IN YOUR ENGINE!


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Holy crap! I'm glad you came out of it okay! Now...change those tidy whities.
 
Yep, time for a new engine. Maybe a 1300 upgrade!

Sean
No, i'll rebuild this one couse new one cost a fortune to me :bang head:

I have an very good friend who have engine for parts.
First to do is to replace cylinder sleeves, i've got 2.
Then grind the sleeves to the 76,25 mm, second size of pistons.
Next to do - repair crank with wleding and grinding and balancing
again.

IMHO evrything can be fixed.

If those operations fail then must buy a new one ;)
Sean, do you have only a cylinder sleevs for shipping stock size or overbore?

And i'have an question for you.
You have a skills and knowlage so please help me if you can ;)
Nedd to buy new plane bearings.
So YAMAHA have an code:
BLUE, BLACK, BROWN, GREEN< YELLOW and PINK.
Number 1 to 6 sizes of plane bearings.

So there are numbers on the crank, balancer shaft and on the lower case.
At the crank i have:
22 2222 - simple.
At the balancer - 2 i 4.

But damm i cant find a numbers on the case.
It should be just below the starter.

Only numbers that i've foud is:
67 1167
Marked with something sharp on the outside of the motor mount housing.

But following with the YAMA service manual:
1 - 2 = -1???? :confused2:

It dosent make any sense....
 
No, i'll rebuild this one couse new one cost a fortune to me :bang head:

I have an very good friend who have engine for parts.
First to do is to replace cylinder sleeves, i've got 2.
Then grind the sleeves to the 76,25 mm, second size of pistons.
Next to do - repair crank with wleding and grinding and balancing
again.

IMHO evrything can be fixed.

If those operations fail then must buy a new one ;)
Sean, do you have only a cylinder sleevs for shipping stock size or overbore?

And i'have an question for you.
You have a skills and knowlage so please help me if you can ;)
Nedd to buy new plane bearings.
So YAMAHA have an code:
BLUE, BLACK, BROWN, GREEN< YELLOW and PINK.
Number 1 to 6 sizes of plane bearings.

So there are numbers on the crank, balancer shaft and on the lower case.
At the crank i have:
22 2222 - simple.
At the balancer - 2 i 4.

But damm i cant find a numbers on the case.
It should be just below the starter.

Only numbers that i've foud is:
67 1167
Marked with something sharp on the outside of the motor mount housing.

But following with the YAMA service manual:
1 - 2 = -1???? :confused2:

It dosent make any sense....

I can't see the thrust surfaces in your pics. The crank rides between two machined surfaces in the upper half of the cases. They like to get damaged when bearings spin and you may or may not have that problem. If they are damaged you will need to get a custom bearing and machine the cases to install them in the factory locations. We have done this a few times with good results but we also add oiling holes to the block there too.

I may have a couple of OEM sleeves around that I can mail to you. They would need to be bored out as you noted. Of course you could make them larger and go a bigger engine too (if you bore more then the 2.5-3mm you will need to remove the sleeves, bore the block, install the new sleeves, then bore the sleeves then cut the sleeves to match the block surface. - not an easy task but what we do for big bore engines).

I've shipped complete engines overseas and the last one was $400 to ship. Some areas are much more but I don't know about yours (not sure where you are at).

The crank can be repaired as you noted or a good used crank acquired. Either way this will not be a cheap repair on this engine. Not only that but the numbers for the bearings will not work anymore if you repair that journal (if you leave the other one it would still work for it).

Are you sure it's not a 67 7767. That would make more sense and be close to nominal.

Sean
 
I can't see the thrust surfaces in your pics. The crank rides between two machined surfaces in the upper half of the cases. They like to get damaged when bearings spin and you may or may not have that problem. If they are damaged you will need to get a custom bearing and machine the cases to install them in the factory locations. We have done this a few times with good results but we also add oiling holes to the block there too.

I may have a couple of OEM sleeves around that I can mail to you. They would need to be bored out as you noted. Of course you could make them larger and go a bigger engine too (if you bore more then the 2.5-3mm you will need to remove the sleeves, bore the block, install the new sleeves, then bore the sleeves then cut the sleeves to match the block surface. - not an easy task but what we do for big bore engines).

I've shipped complete engines overseas and the last one was $400 to ship. Some areas are much more but I don't know about yours (not sure where you are at).

The crank can be repaired as you noted or a good used crank acquired. Either way this will not be a cheap repair on this engine. Not only that but the numbers for the bearings will not work anymore if you repair that journal (if you leave the other one it would still work for it).

Are you sure it's not a 67 7767. That would make more sense and be close to nominal.

Sean
Thanks for reply ;)

The holes in cases for my luck are fine, just need to replace plane bearings.
Only thing that could be a problem is the space on crank where conecting rod belongs.
I'll try to weld it up and grind to the required diameter.
That should be no problem.
I have access to the grinding machines, im working as an CNC operator
in factory with many machines.

Firstble i'll try to remove two sleeves from the another engine and press them into my case.
I'll try to cool them with nitrogen, and heat to the cases, i hope they will not
crack like a leaf :)
I'll post the results here.
If that will fail then must buy the sleeves from you and get big bore
Anyway must buy a piston kit, its not a big difrence what size

I'm from poland, my max is from chicago so no problem, i'm familiar and experienced with shipping ;)

Anyway all of the plane bearings at crank have some marks of overheating but not dramatic, balancer also.
It could be repaired but damm lot of work to do
Firstble i'll try to revive old parts couse im not that rich to buy a new engine ;)
In PL if your have luck to only find a good used v-max engine you need to pay about 3000-4000$ so its a lot of money.



Yeah you correct, thats was 7767.
Ist very blurred - shame on you YAMAHA :biglaugh:


Yeah one more thing:
Do you know whats is the thiknes difrence in plane baerings in the Yamaha sizes:
blue, black green etc?
I think it could be 0,02mm BLUE to BLACK etc. ?
 
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