Broken Engine Parts Thread

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There is only a few thousands difference between all the sizes. Use a jet heater to heat the block (or an oven) then simply wack it with a good platic hammer and it will slip right out. Do the same thing with the heat to the block and slip the new one in quickly then you can press it down a bit on a press.

Sean
 
Spoke with couple of companies doing crak rebuilds.
The best way in v-max crank is to not weld couse crank can get bend and
its possible to straighten out but they will not give a guarantee.
V-max crank is nitricicated to about 800-1000HV hardness.

Best way to fix the crank is to grind bad pivot out of diameter,
nitrification for a new whole crank and get mnicrofinished.
In this case must make custom bearings and get mached with case.

Those are words from experts.
Estaminate cost of this option is about ~500$ so for me its still most cheap.
They also offer make a custom sleeve with instalation into the block and get it finished for one sleeve about 80$.

Sean what do you think about economic of this operation?


V-max plane bearing are maded from brozne and coated what kind - ceramic, carbon, molybdenum etc?
What kind of bronze - B101?


http://www.hipeco.com/eng/

Plan to do this in the next week.
Regards.
 
You have a few options here.

1st: I could sell you a good used crank for $400 and a set of reconditioned rods with bronze bushings in the small end for $240 (normally exchange but I would waive that). I could even supply all the bearings setup and ready for not too much more (around $100). Gaskets, etc.... aren't all that much either. I've got a couple of new rods too if you wanted to go that route.

I have shipped all over the world and I can't imagine shipping being too much (though the crank is heavy). I can fit most of the items in a flatrate box other then the crank itself.

2nd: Welding up the crank is very do-able and it would need to be straightened after doing that. Far from impossible and the main company here charges around $300 per journal to do that. If you offset the crank by grinding it smaller there can be some real benefits provided the crank is strong enough.

You can essentially get a larger displacement engine by altering the stroke. Not only that but the surface distance of the bearing is reduced so travel time for a full rotation is reduced allowing for a higher redline and less bearing load.

The hard part is getting the custom rods made (which we can do through Carrillo if you can't do it) as well as the custom bearings. I've always wanted to do something like this myself.

On a stock bore engine with a 2mm crank offset the size increases to 1270. With a 4mm offset you are looking at 1343 and if you turn around and bore the cylinders 2mm over you are now at 1414cc's.

Either way you need to have your cranks magnafluxed to check for cracks. There was some extreme heat put into the crank from what I can see in the pics.

I'd still sell you an engine but as you noted the shipping can get costly. I think the last engine I shipped to the United Arab Emarites was around $400.

Sean
 
The best way to send a package to poland is POLAMER.
For crank i think about 140$ via air, cheaper sea but very long, about 6-8 weeks.
Not so much but something...

Must to consider evrything. I dont have money for the second time.
My friend from chicago tell me:
-lets buy an another used engine.

Yeah and have another engine failure couse you never know what is inside.
For me better do whole youself and be sure what you have inside.

First decision was - rebuild this one, not buying used one.
Of course Sean, you the one that i can trust with buying an engine but second
is fortune for shipping.

Welding idea is gone for good.


You absolutly right, offseting the rod is the nice idea and i've dont think about that earlier.

So as you've mentioned firstible need to check crank, serching cranks and bends and if it will be okay then start the rebulid.
I'll try to offset about 1mm, no need to go more.

If crank rebulid fail then i'll contact with you and buy a crank from you.


That was an very nice conversation and thanks for a part of you knowlage ;)
I'll try to post the results as quick as i can.
Regards
 
No problem, let us know how it all turns out. I am checking on shipping cost anyway just for my curiosity. I will have very low mile 2003 engine soon (and of course we have others).

Sean
 
I have 3 bad cranks sitting around.. Faicon works the VMAX crank and anyone that knows of Falicon they know they are top notch qaulity and stand behind there work 110%

I was going to take this route with mine on the 03 engine then just by the time I buy the gaskets, and other bullshit I can just buy an engine from a salvage yard with low miles for under 1500
 
I have 3 bad cranks sitting around.. Falicon works the VMAX crank and anyone that knows of Falicon they know they are top notch qaulity and stand behind there work 110%

I was going to take this route with mine on the 03 engine then just by the time I buy the gaskets, and other bullshit I can just buy an engine from a salvage yard with low miles for under 1500
Intresting what is Falicon price for that kind of rebuild the crank and what they think about this.
In PL lots of people claim that its impossible to rebuild the crank at the factory level...yeah YAMA using an technology out of this planet :rofl_200:
Impossible my ass :rofl_200:

About the crank you need that kind of data:
-hardness
-kind of material that's crank made up
-clearances of the plane baerings
With that you can bulid evry kind of part.

Page 187:
http://books.google.pl/books?id=P8h...X&oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result#PPA187,M1

You will buy engine from salvage yard and probably IMHO same happens in the short time cose you never know detalis of the usage.
I've heard lots of very good opinions about Falicon but heard that too they not kind of cheap.
 
Intresting what is Falicon price for that kind of rebuild the crank and what they think about this.

Falicon is not a cheap company, the crank in my old Kaw. turbo/n2o drag bike ran over $3000. BUT!, it never had any issues. so IMO it was money well spent. it was a bulletproof base to build from. I also used them to massage the crank on my 80' XS1100.

I woudn't hesitate to go with them again. Look up thier offers and shoot them an email, you wont be dissapointed with thier work.

www.faliconcranks.com/

Another company to deal with is APE ( www.aperaceparts ) they have done work on my 81' XS1100's crank. Lightened, balanced, polished.. and prepped the oil outlets on the journals.
 
I am setup with Falicon also but for $300-$350 per journal for repair work most of the time it's easier to just get a good used crank. If both rod journals end up bad you can almost get a new crank for less.

Sean
 
Falicon is not a cheap company, the crank in my old Kaw. turbo/n2o drag bike ran over $3000. BUT!, it never had any issues. so IMO it was money well spent. it was a bulletproof base to build from. I also used them to massage the crank on my 80' XS1100.

I woudn't hesitate to go with them again. Look up thier offers and shoot them an email, you wont be dissapointed with thier work.

www.faliconcranks.com/

Another company to deal with is APE ( www.aperaceparts ) they have done work on my 81' XS1100's crank. Lightened, balanced, polished.. and prepped the oil outlets on the journals.
Thanks but i'm not that rich to deal with them ;)
Not this time ;)

Take a look at the crank from Nitromax:
http://www.nitromax.nl/NOS9.HTM
It's also a gret job.
 
I am setup with Falicon also but for $300-$350 per journal for repair work most of the time it's easier to just get a good used crank. If both rod journals end up bad you can almost get a new crank for less.

Sean
Mine crank rapair will be cost ~500$ to repair one journal and grind the others
afert nitricated set of new custom bearings included so not bad at all.
But we will see the results. They have good opinion localy.

Today i've replaced a sleeves:
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2606/case.jpg

But the one problem occured. The surface at the place where cylinder heads belongs need to be grinded now couse the sleeves
are not seat evenly/precisley in the block - damm my english sucks sometimes, hope you understand me :)

Sean do you have a method to incrase effiency of the oil pump?
Maybe an overdrive gear ratio?

Is there any faults when incrasing the effiency with the oil pump?
Oil consumption may incrase?
 
OK, more broken pics. Just got this customers engine apart yesterday (Brian your's is next to be worked on).

Note the blown out o-ring and location the rod ended up in the block. The rest of the damage speaks for itself. The engine was idling when that failure occurred.

Sean
 

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" HOLY SHIT " , THATS FUCKED UP WITH THAT " O " RING HANGING OUT OF THE OIL PUMP PASSAGE ! ... I'M SO FRIGGING GLAD THAT I DID THE UP-DATE KIT TO MINE ! ... THANKS FOR THE PICTURES SEAN ! .. :punk:
 
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