Carbon gurus.... Float check

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davesax36

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Ok. I've read the stickies more times than I care to admit. I think I'm doing this right, but I want to make sure. Could you tell me if I've just set this float correctly at 1.115? I'm going to proceed with the assembly of the other carbs, but I really don't want to have to take everything apart again once it's all buttoned up. Thanks for all your help so far. This would have been prohibitively expensive to complete without the good advice I've received here already.
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i believe you're measuring the right area, but it appears that you are measuring with the carb flat on the bench. you need to make the measurement with float hanging by sitting the carb up.

 
Thanks, Ninja. I'm a mess, here. It seems I can't read my caliper in .001". I'll keep at it.


OH, and if a Mod sees this and wants to change the title to "CARB GURUS" that would be great. Stupid phone auto-correct.
 
I thought most guys were using the circular casting marks on the jet block to bench set the floats this procedure is in the carb "sticky" area.
 
I use 1.120" from the bottom with the weight of the floats sitting on the needle as shown in the second post.

Sean
 
I think in my original post, it's measuring 1.150.... that's gonna be WAY lean if I'm thinking straight. The casting marks line up just right at this point, though. I'm gonna go measure again and post another pic.
 
Ok. This caliper reading yields the following upside down look of the float

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after setting them dry i like to do a bench wet float height check just to make sure.
 
after setting them dry i like to do a bench wet float height check just to make sure.

+1 to what Tugla replied... on the bench is best, but can even be done when remounted on the bike too. I shoot for the 16 - 17 mm mark on the tube. Anything more or less than that, I tear back into the carbs to readjust.
 
I thought most guys were using the circular casting marks on the jet block to bench set the floats this procedure is in the carb "sticky" area.

I'm no Guru, but not a stranger to carbs either. I use that casting circle to get me in the ball park-with the carbs upside down. A jig like Dan-o used in an old thread is the best bet. You can make it out of anything easy to work with. When I need a Guru, I message people here. Even with years of experience as a wrencher, I never fail to learn something new and useful here, and from guys way younger too. Knowledge is prevalent and shared selflessly here. The final wet check is the best way to finish in my h.o. anyway. It's worth it. This is repetitious sorry, but measuring the volume from each bowl, after a pump cycling is my quick check. I've marked a clear small jar with the volume from a carb I verified was right on. I also get to see if my fuel system has sediment in it.
Steve-o

 
Looks like 1.11 to me. Pretty damn close.

I set my calipers to the measurement I want and use the inside measuring part to go from the edge of the float bowl to the floats. The bitch, as I am sure you are finding, is bending the float tab to get it set so accurately.

Once your done, definitely do a wet check. All it takes is a piece of clear tubing.
 
Not to ask a stupid question but when you say measure with the weight of the float on the needle is that the entire weight or just until it barely touches the needle. Reason I ask is that when I checked mine, I just tilted the carbs until the float just gently touched the needle.
 
I measure with them held flat. Once the weight of the float is on the needle it won't make any difference if the angle is such that more weight is on there. The tension from the inner plunger on the needle will keep the float at the height unless pushed down by another source (like your fingers).

Sean
 
should the little wire on the needle go around the tab on the float or does it just hang out there. I've been fiddling and i seem to be able to catch the float tab on the wire causing an extremely premature closure of the needle. I don't want to put these things all the way back together and have one carb shut down going around a corner because the needle was able to spin freely in such a way that the float tab touched the wire instead of the little sprung button on the needle.
 
Wire should go around the tab on the float and stay there throughout the range of movement of the float.
 
Correct. The tab on the float fits between the small wire and the needle.
 
Awesome. Thanks, guys. Now if only my last jet block would get here I could maybe actually ride this thing instead of staring at parts.

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