COPS starting.. slower?

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gamorg02

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so i installed the new kit from gannon (by the way how fucking top notch is his kit? wicked professional!, not just a bunch of parts in a box, instructions (22pages worth), sealed packaging. i was impressed)...

anyways got the kit, everything went in easy, the front harnesses could be maybe 1" longer but it works fine. but anyways the bike is a pain to start now. takes probably 2-3x longer. only usually happens when dead cold and where it would usually take 1-3 seconds it now is taking maybe 5, if not 10 seconds. I know everythings making connection because once its on it runs perfect. when i'm trying to 'start' it, it doesn't cough, choke or anything, like its just not getting spark or something. do the resistors have to warm up or something?

anyways, just wondering if someone saw anything similar. so far the bike has only been dead cold under probably 40 degrees so not sure if that has something to do with it.
 
you have the ones with the resistor cause of your dyna eh garrett?
i dont have resistors and it seems to start run fine until one day. i started it up and it was on a low slow idle warming up and then just died. i tired for over 30 mins to start and nothing, i had plugs out thinking i flooded it but they were dryish and was doing everything i could, then i was about to hook up the old coils to get me home when it did fire and run, weird, ran a little off but i got it home keeping the revs above 2g just in case. and when i pulled up to the garage it died and wouldnt start again. im not saying its the cop or the wire harness but wondering what would lead to something like that might be why yours is taking longer to start also. maybe it is a cop thing. :confused2:
 
interesting ro. yea i had gannons whole kit b/c of the dyna. i'm gonna keep an eye on it. it doesn't like 'try' to run, no 'hiccups', just not firing, thats why i was wondering if the resistors were too cold maybe?
 
This is weird, if anything '99 seemed to start quicker...much quicker after the COP's. They've been in now going on the 3rd year and, on start-up, it's running on the second flop! :ummm:
 
This is weird, if anything '99 seemed to start quicker...much quicker after the COP's. They've been in now going on the 3rd year and, on start-up, it's running on the second flop! :ummm:
u don't have resistors correct?
 
dont think he does. when i put the cops on it did start nice and seems to run flawless. dont think resistors have to warm up or anything. how old are your plugs? maybe a little di-electric grease on all the wire connections.
 
plugs are a couple years old but didn't exhibit this behavoir with the stock coils
 
ya but never hurts to start off with a fresh set if your gonna be trouble shooting, got to be sure on the little things. even when the bike is warm goes it take that long to fire up or just like the first start of the day?
 
ya but never hurts to start off with a fresh set if your gonna be trouble shooting, got to be sure on the little things. even when the bike is warm goes it take that long to fire up or just like the first start of the day?

just the first start my man
 
mmm maybe lost prime over night, i noticed that the few sec the pump runs to fill the bowls up is a time thing/pressure. last season i would turn the key, the pump would cycle for a bit then shut off, no matter how many times i turned the key, what was happening was it could not push the fuel to the carbs. so they stayed dry even thou pump was working.

i undid the line, filled the line to the carb which primed the carb, then when i turned the key the pump primed until it felt back pressure and then it would stop as normal.
not a good explanation but know what i mean?
so maybe over night your losing a bit and it take a bit of cranking to get fuel into them. i know if your driving everyday that should not be a issue but something to think about anyways. need a manual prime like a sled hahahah :hmmm:
 
Hmmm...that's kind of strange. I'd think the problem would be the opposite...tougher to start when hot, when the compression is higher and it takes more energy to spark.

My only thought would be that on a cold motor on a cold day, it's taking a little more current to crank the motor than usual and you're getting just barely enough juice to the ignition to start. Add in the resistors and now it's not quite sufficient anymore and you get weak/no spark.

Try putting the battery on a charger before starting next time when it's cold and see if it goes quicker, to keep the voltage across the battery a bit higher.

Like Dan, I noticed my '97 also started much quicker with COPs, but I have the stock ignition box, no resistors.
 
mmm maybe lost prime over night, i noticed that the few sec the pump runs to fill the bowls up is a time thing/pressure. last season i would turn the key, the pump would cycle for a bit then shut off, no matter how many times i turned the key, what was happening was it could not push the fuel to the carbs. so they stayed dry even thou pump was working.

i undid the line, filled the line to the carb which primed the carb, then when i turned the key the pump primed until it felt back pressure and then it would stop as normal.
not a good explanation but know what i mean?
so maybe over night your losing a bit and it take a bit of cranking to get fuel into them. i know if your driving everyday that should not be a issue but something to think about anyways. need a manual prime like a sled hahahah :hmmm:

nah my fuel pump kicked in for a click or two had only sat for about 10h

Hmmm...that's kind of strange. I'd think the problem would be the opposite...tougher to start when hot, when the compression is higher and it takes more energy to spark.

My only thought would be that on a cold motor on a cold day, it's taking a little more current to crank the motor than usual and you're getting just barely enough juice to the ignition to start. Add in the resistors and now it's not quite sufficient anymore and you get weak/no spark.

Try putting the battery on a charger before starting next time when it's cold and see if it goes quicker, to keep the voltage across the battery a bit higher.

Like Dan, I noticed my '97 also started much quicker with COPs, but I have the stock ignition box, no resistors.

battery was fully charged, goes on a tender every night. when it was turning over it had tons of power, just it wasn't firing... started showed NO fatigue and the speed of the turning over didn't diminish.
 
Got the resisters on mine Garrett. My 89 starts right up, but when I flushed my cooling system out I spilled a little water and noticed my right front cop boot arching like the creation of Frankenstein. Wondering what riding in the rain will be like? Or, if the cop boot on that one is old. My point-Are your cops new, used? Thinking about new cops myself.
Steve-o
 
Hmm....in theory the ignition should "see" no difference between the original ignition coils and the COPS+resistors but clearly something has changed. Equivalent resistance should be very nearly the same.


I've ridden in a torrential downpour(several times lol) with the COPs and had zero problems with misfires or otherwise. I have the supposedly inferior Mitsubishi sticks that came off a R6 as well. I've actually carefully looked for arcing in a dark room and never spotted anything.

Have you asked Gannon about this?
 
Hmm....in theory the ignition should "see" no difference between the original ignition coils and the COPS+resistors but clearly something has changed. Equivalent resistance should be very nearly the same.


I've ridden in a torrential downpour(several times lol) with the COPs and had zero problems with misfires or otherwise. I have the supposedly inferior Mitsubishi sticks that came off a R6 as well. I've actually carefully looked for arcing in a dark room and never spotted anything.

Have you asked Gannon about this?
I haven't yet, but think I'll check the secondary resistance first.I understand it to be 8.5-11.5 Ohms. I did buy these used. Correct me if this value is wrong please.
Steve-o
 
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