MSGU1-4936
Well-Known Member
sorry to hear about your misfortune Copilot, can you let us know what you plan to do to repair the "o" ring issue, what method are you planning on using to keep it in place.
Good luck,
Ron
Good luck,
Ron
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copilot777
Well-Known Member
well thank you for your concern.I have read about the kawi oval ring and I plan to give it a try . and I will keep the site posted on my findings.:ummm:
Copilot, not trying to be an ass or anything but don't do 10,000 rpms! Redline is 9500.....9000 is probably even better.
Let us know what you find out. Sorry to hear about this bad news.
Let us know what you find out. Sorry to hear about this bad news.
As I stated in an earlier post to this thread, I replaced the delivery pipe, and all associated parts including the orange o-ring with new parts. It is easy to see how they fixed the problem when comparing the new parts with the old. I have attached a picture I took of my old parts beside the new. (New is on the left). Notice the crease in the old o-ring from when it popped out and was damaged. The new pipe is taller and the o-ring is higher and has less vertical movement space.
Attachments
hubeerjw
Well-Known Member
M-cman, thanks for the post... a picture says a 1000 words. Do you happen to have part numbers for both the old and the new, or what year was the part upgraded?
Thanks,
Jeff
Don't remember what year the change was made. Around 2002 or 2003. Doesn't matter. Just use the latest part numbers.
For the Delivery Pipe Assembly (Ref. No. 4 in the "Oil Cleaner" section of the 1997 parts manual), the new part # is 26H-Y1319-10-01 - ($37.82). It includes all the o-rings (6 including the famous orange one) and grommets (2). I also bought the support grommet (Ref. No. 9), part # 26H-15366-01-00 - ($1.97). While I was in there, I replaced all the other o-rings and the oil pan gasket of course.
The prices are the old "15% over cost" U-Motors prices before the increase. Expect to pay at least 10% more at KN.
Except for the exhaust removal, it was an easy fix. I went ahead and checked out the oil pump also.
For the Delivery Pipe Assembly (Ref. No. 4 in the "Oil Cleaner" section of the 1997 parts manual), the new part # is 26H-Y1319-10-01 - ($37.82). It includes all the o-rings (6 including the famous orange one) and grommets (2). I also bought the support grommet (Ref. No. 9), part # 26H-15366-01-00 - ($1.97). While I was in there, I replaced all the other o-rings and the oil pan gasket of course.
The prices are the old "15% over cost" U-Motors prices before the increase. Expect to pay at least 10% more at KN.
Except for the exhaust removal, it was an easy fix. I went ahead and checked out the oil pump also.
it doesn't matter what year the crossover pipe is. Just get the Kawi oval o-ring and it will hold up just fine.
Sean
Sean
92055-1147
Bump to the top. Good worthwhile read.
Sounds like if you have above 3 psi at idle your safe for now. Let it warm up before running hard.
I drilled out and tapped the oil gallery plug with a flared fitting to pump up my oil pressure before starting the first time after 21 years. I can use that fitting to check my pressure at idle with my hvac gauges Im thinking.
But Im always going to wonder now that I know..
Sounds like if you have above 3 psi at idle your safe for now. Let it warm up before running hard.
I drilled out and tapped the oil gallery plug with a flared fitting to pump up my oil pressure before starting the first time after 21 years. I can use that fitting to check my pressure at idle with my hvac gauges Im thinking.
But Im always going to wonder now that I know..
its nice to have the COO oil pressure gauge, just to catch something serious before it happens.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
23,000 miles. O-ring bulging. I bought this bike with 12,000 miles on the clock. I can only vouch for how I take care of it and warm it up before riding. Anyway, Seans pump kit I recommend, comes with the KAWI o-ring and everything else you'll need. I also installed an oil pressure gauge. I'll inspect the o-ring again if my oil pressude ever drops (now that I can see it) I wondered about those Yami engineers the first time I rode 300 miles on that stock brick they call a seat...lol
Steve-o
Steve-o
lowmax
Member
Yamaha has addressed the issue with a modified oil pipe! They made the change in 1999 and newer Vmax"s. I didn't want to take my 86 apart, but glad I did! !/3 of the the oring was pushed right out. The problem is not the oring! The problem is that the tube doesn't push in far enough to allow the oring to be deep enough to avoid the bevel in the casing. The 99 and newer parts correct this. You have to buy the oil pipe assm. complete. retails for $92.00.
OR, you get my kit for $100 and overdrive the oil pump while you are at it - not just address the o-ring itself.
Sean
Sean
Oh yes.. Very interested Sean. How about a oil pickup relocation kit for those of us who ride wheelies? Or how do you address that problem?
Don't wheelie as much lol! We actually just sold a custom built pan to one customer. Could maybe build another one but the problem is going to be getting the oil back out of the transmission cavity since it's at the back of the engine. Too high and too long and that's where the oil moves to. I suppose a guy could maybe tap into the back of the block area and run an external oil pump to push it back into the front pan area.
OR,
get a an Accusump!
http://www.accusump.com/
Sean
OR,
get a an Accusump!
http://www.accusump.com/
Sean
sidwin
Well-Known Member
so what do you guys think about the cycle-one off part is it too much of an overkill?
4gasem
Well-Known Member
It's a bit pricey for what you get but I can't argue with what it does... I'm sure it took some time to get the thickness dialed in.
I have one on my '06 as a just in case... I can't say anything bad about it, but the price. Pretty steep but hey... It works!
I believe you have to order a pan gasket. He may include one but I don't think so.
Chris
Just checked my oil pressure with gtx 10-30 mid 50,s here.
55 psi on start up at idle , fresh oil and filter , hvac gauges. Then dropped slowly as it warmed up to 8 psi at 750 rpm. Revving to 6000 gave me around 60 psi warm. Im guessing my oring is happy for now knock on wood.
Imagine what pressure you would have if you revved it up cold.
55 psi on start up at idle , fresh oil and filter , hvac gauges. Then dropped slowly as it warmed up to 8 psi at 750 rpm. Revving to 6000 gave me around 60 psi warm. Im guessing my oring is happy for now knock on wood.
Imagine what pressure you would have if you revved it up cold.
You'd have similar pressure cold (maybe slightly more). The bypass hits in about 60psi. We include a washer to bump that up a bit (by preloading the spring a bit). If you take the pump apart and flip the bypass around you will get enough pressure to blow the filter off.
Sean
Sean
