4gasem
Well-Known Member
You're running car oil in your bike? That's energy conserving isn't it? That'll make a clutch slip like a banshie!
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You're running car oil in your bike? That's energy conserving isn't it? That'll make a clutch slip like a banshie!
joelyons50023
Well-Known Member
Hey sean what is the thickness of that spacer that you use for the pressure release?
.063" washer. Nothing really magic about it. The biggest thing is the HD o-ring and larger pump gear and lazer cut spacer to space the pump out for the new gear's increased diameter.
Sean
Sean
Wow, this has been an incredable read. I heard about this O-Ring long ago. Way before I even thought of getting a VMax. I see the debate's points from each direction. I believe there's a potential problem in all of the older VMax's. It depends on how they've been run and maintained whether it'll cause major grief. Some riders go over 100,000 miles and all is well. I'm not going to loose sleep over the issue but I will install the latest upgrades should the opportunity ever present itself. If it's not broke and I try to fix it, It will be broke. Thats just the way it goes for me. :-(
Dave
Dave
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
I've been wondering about this o-ring myself, my bike being an '86 with almost 48k miles.
I'm going to replace my stator, so as I believe I need to drop the oil to do that, I may just take a look at it at the same time. Depends on what's involved, really. Never had a lube problem yet.
I'm going to replace my stator, so as I believe I need to drop the oil to do that, I may just take a look at it at the same time. Depends on what's involved, really. Never had a lube problem yet.
I have not looked but it may be possible to see the o-ring through the oil pan drain bolt?? Never tried though so not sure.
Sean
Sean
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
I've got access to a "see snake" made by rigid tools. Not sure the head of it would fit thru the drain bolt. It would fit thru the hole that the oil level sensor goes in but not sure you could get to see the o ring from there.
The COO kit is simple to install once the exhaust and pan is dropped. It comes with a gasket and a plastic bumper to replace the OEM rubber one on the elbow. Instructions say to ahere the piece with RTV but I just put a dab of grease or petroleum jelly on it to hold till the pan is in place.
Seans kit takes a bit more work. It comes with a new Kawasaki oval ring, a new oil pump drive gear and spacer washer, a shim for the pump spring and a shim for the pump body, gaskets for clutch cover and oil pan, and a new OEM rubber bumper. I already had the COO plastic bumper so I used that in place of the OEM one when I installed Seans kit. Hardest part was removing the snap ring on the oil pump drive gear. Not much room to work and hard to see when I'm laying on my back with my nose touching the underneath of the frame rail trying to reach in there with some snap ring pliers.
The COO kit is simple to install once the exhaust and pan is dropped. It comes with a gasket and a plastic bumper to replace the OEM rubber one on the elbow. Instructions say to ahere the piece with RTV but I just put a dab of grease or petroleum jelly on it to hold till the pan is in place.
Seans kit takes a bit more work. It comes with a new Kawasaki oval ring, a new oil pump drive gear and spacer washer, a shim for the pump spring and a shim for the pump body, gaskets for clutch cover and oil pan, and a new OEM rubber bumper. I already had the COO plastic bumper so I used that in place of the OEM one when I installed Seans kit. Hardest part was removing the snap ring on the oil pump drive gear. Not much room to work and hard to see when I'm laying on my back with my nose touching the underneath of the frame rail trying to reach in there with some snap ring pliers.
Yep, a bit harder to install but I'd like to think our kit does a bit more towards engine survivability. I have a friend who works in the medical tool industry and I asked him to give me any of the broken "pee pee" cams they get in. Haven't seen one yet. But, when they cost upwards of $5000-$6000 they tend to have them repaired and not replaced. It could almost even be snaked in through the oil fill cap it was long and flexible enough.
Sean
Sean
06VMAXIMUS
Well-Known Member
The one we have at work isn't as small as a "pee pee" cam, but isn't too big at 1/4 diameter. Its a Snap-On brand, and was $250. The prices have come way down on these units in the last 2 or 3 years. Its a good idea, and I think next oil change, I will bring it home and try snaking it in the drain hole.
COP RUNNER
Well-Known Member
THIS IS HOW IT WENT FOR ME & I'M GLAD I DID IT , JUST FOR PIECE OF MIND ! ... EITHER I HAVE REALLY GOOD LUCK OR REALLY BAD LUCK , SO THIS TIME I FIGURED , MAYBE I CAN MAKE MY OWN LUCK ! ... 
unk: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=7383
unk: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=7383namyzzo
Well-Known Member
Thought I would add my pics & info to this thread and let the reader decide..
Bought this 86, had a knock in the motor.. Motor has been apart for some reason or another..And they did a really crappy job - maybe contributed to the rod failure or it was the oring.??
>Picture of Contaminate in oil pan.. Alot of brass/Bronze shavings from the Crank/Rod bearings..
>Picture of O-ring popped out
>Picture of Damaged Rod Bearing
>picture of Oil Pump components with grooves/scratches due to amount of contaminates in the oil..
> also pic of blow off/bypass valve?.. So much contaminate/burrs that it was seized into the pump.. btw is was in the closed position - I pulled it out just for the pic...
26k miles
Bought this 86, had a knock in the motor.. Motor has been apart for some reason or another..And they did a really crappy job - maybe contributed to the rod failure or it was the oring.??
>Picture of Contaminate in oil pan.. Alot of brass/Bronze shavings from the Crank/Rod bearings..
>Picture of O-ring popped out
>Picture of Damaged Rod Bearing
>picture of Oil Pump components with grooves/scratches due to amount of contaminates in the oil..
> also pic of blow off/bypass valve?.. So much contaminate/burrs that it was seized into the pump.. btw is was in the closed position - I pulled it out just for the pic...
26k miles
Attachments
adamax
Well-Known Member
I bought a 2003 with 40K miles engine knocking motor never opened.
Upon disassembly: O-ring bulged out, crankshaft, 2 rods and oil pump all shot.
In my opinion this is not a kind of normal.
Upon disassembly: O-ring bulged out, crankshaft, 2 rods and oil pump all shot.
In my opinion this is not a kind of normal.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
It must've been really abused. Any seriously abused engine will die.
COP RUNNER
Well-Known Member
Man That " Blows " ! .. I'm So Glad That I Did My " O " Ring Fix When I Did !
mud_shark86
Active Member
Heres a link I found for all the noobs like myself that didn't have a clue what O-ring you guys were talking about...Kinda wished I had never read this thread....lol.
http://http://www.starvmax.com/forum/12-general-vmax-discussion/44185-cycle-one-off-parts-site
http://http://www.starvmax.com/forum/12-general-vmax-discussion/44185-cycle-one-off-parts-site
wlodek1980
Well-Known Member
i've had 3 vmaxes with shot engines thru my garage, and all of them had this o-ring blown out. 1 of them exploded, 2 spun the main shells and cut into cranks, but were still rebuildable.
but i still don't know whether the o-ring was the actual cause.
but i still don't know whether the o-ring was the actual cause.
wlodek1980
Well-Known Member
COP RUNNER
Well-Known Member
EVERYONE SHOULD JUST DO IT , TAKES ABOUT 4-5 HOURS , YOU'LL NEED A INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH . ( I FOOT LB. = 12 INCH LBS. ) A NEW RAZOR BLADE TO CAREFULLY SCRAPE THE OLD GASKET AND SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE MUSIC ! .. YOU WILL BE DONE BEFORE YOU KNOW IT , AND YOU WILL SLEEP LIKE A BABY ! .. IF ALL OF THESE PICTURES OF BLOWN MOTORS WITH BULGED OUT "O" RINGS AREN'T ENOUGH PROOF , I DON'T NO WHAT IS ? .. :confused2: .. PS. I KNOW ITS EASY FOR ME TO SAY BECAUSE I'VE ALREADY DONE MINE , BUT THATS WHY I KNOW THATS ITS EASY , JUST A LITTLE TIME CONSUMING !
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