FJR Master Brake and Clutch cylinder questions

[Ojref]

Hi all,

I recently picked up a 1991 Max - having previously owned a 2001, the first thing I aspire to improve are the brakes. The clutch master cylinder could use a rebuild, and so can the front MC - to which can be replaced by the 2003 FJR's MC to my understanding. Can the clutch MC be replaced as well with the FJR's, is it a direct fit, and will the mirrors bolt up as well?

Also, where is a good online source for Yamaha OE parts?

Thanks!

 

[vmaxman99]

Yes, you can use the FJR Clutch master as well. I have both on my '99. Best place to buy is University Motors. The hole for the mirror is on my masters, but I don't use them as I have bar end mirrors from Mario.

 

[Mr. Lynn]

Good day all,
I hope your turkey day was a great one. Two questions if I may. Front Brake Master Cylinder screws. How do you pound them loose. They are stripping on me. Last qiestion is with the clutch. I saw it some where that if the bike is cold when shifting into 1st it lunges forward, which mine does, can you please direct me to that information previously posted. Thanks.

 

[Ojref]

My FJR front brake master is up and running. The calipers - oh my god... Mind you I have a 91, and obviously, the previous owners believed in changing the pads and not bleeding through the old fluid. The fluid in the calipers, both brake and clutch had to have been 18 years old...

I could never get the fronts to engage properly after changing the pads with Galfer blacks. The handle would sink to the handlebar like a hot knife through butter. So, I removed the calipers, proportioning valve and lines, split the calipers and lo and behold, I found a substance that looked like runny egg yolks. Both calipers' balance valves were almost sealed shut with the crud, save for a small pinhole through the goop. The proportioning valve had a pin hole open for fluid to flow, the rest of it was gummed shut.

I boiled the calipers, lines and valves for three hours in water and a diluted mix of Simple Green to loosen the crud enough to be cleaned out by air pressure. I got all the water out I can, whatever was left was picked up by the bleed-through process. I pumped almost a whole can of Valvoline Synthetic through before I was satisfied with the feel. I can lock the front tire up now so it skids the pavement, mind you, this is the older Max 2 pot calipers. The FJR's are working perfectly now! I can't wait until I get some R1 calipers up front. As for the clutch, I had to replace a sticking slave cylinder and put a Galfer SS line in place to get it to function properly. Aside from the DD mod making the lever feel like a dragbike's clutch, it's working perfectly!

 

[one2dmax]

I'm actually very close to having the 6 pot huyabusa caliper adapters ready to make. I just need to come up with a set of brand new pads to make sure I have the caliper centered enough for a new set to fit - the current set looks new but I want to make sure..

The adapter will be very inexpensive compared to the r1's. Also, they will require you upgrade to newer rotors (either stock 93 and up Vmax, aftermarket for those years, or R1 rotors with bolt holes milled to clear the bolt heads). Braking power when combined with the FJR should be incredible with excellent "feel"

Sean Morley

 

[Buster Hymen]

I'm actually very close to having the 6 pot huyabusa caliper adapters ready to make. I just need to come up with a set of brand new pads to make sure I have the caliper centered enough for a new set to fit - the current set looks new but I want to make sure..

The adapter will be very inexpensive compared to the r1's. Also, they will require you upgrade to newer rotors (either stock 93 and up Vmax, aftermarket for those years, or R1 rotors with bolt holes milled to clear the bolt heads). Braking power when combined with the FJR should be incredible with excellent "feel"

Sean Morley

What size 6 pot Tokicos are they? The large or the smaller size ones?

 

[one2dmax]

They are fairly large. I don't recall the year of the busa they were from but want to say 2001. Would have to check my ebay paperwork.

Sean

 

[onebadv2]

Hey Sean, let me know when your 'busa adapters are ready as I think I may go that way. If I understand you correctly, I will need to get "93 up Vmax rotors to bolt on to my '89 wheels, your adapters and calipers from the 'busa. Anything else? Do I need to change the master cylinder? Thanks for your help. George

 

[Buster Hymen]

They are fairly large. I don't recall the year of the busa they were from but want to say 2001. Would have to check my ebay paperwork.

Sean

Here are the 2 sizes. The "smaller" ones are easier to make a bracket for.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Hey Sean, let me know when your 'busa adapters are ready as I think I may go that way. If I understand you correctly, I will need to get "93 up Vmax rotors to bolt on to my '89 wheels, your adapters and calipers from the 'busa. Anything else? Do I need to change the master cylinder? Thanks for your help. George

I've got 6 pots on mine. You can also use a rotor off an R1 or R6 since they are the same size/bolt pattern. I'm using the stock master and it is OK but I think I'm going to swap in a 14 mm FJR master as that is the "proper" match for the caliper.

 

[one2dmax]

I need to get a set of brand new brake pads for the calipers I have to ensure that they are centered well enough to get them in. The sets I have look new but want to make sure they are going to work well.

The ones I have look very similar to the set in the first picture.

You'll need the rotors (either stock 93 up vmax, 99-02 (not sure if newer) R1 rotors (which may need recessed bored to let bolt heads clear forks), and the adapters. FJR master and braided brake lines would definetly add the icing but I don't think they will be needed.

I do have a pic of roughly what it will look like but the adapter is not the final product (it's from our 4 piston adapters).

Sean Morley

 

[gleno]

Nice Job Sean

 

[gamorg02]

My FJR front brake master is up and running. The calipers - oh my god... Mind you I have a 91, and obviously, the previous owners believed in changing the pads and not bleeding through the old fluid. The fluid in the calipers, both brake and clutch had to have been 18 years old...

I could never get the fronts to engage properly after changing the pads with Galfer blacks. The handle would sink to the handlebar like a hot knife through butter. So, I removed the calipers, proportioning valve and lines, split the calipers and lo and behold, I found a substance that looked like runny egg yolks. Both calipers' balance valves were almost sealed shut with the crud, save for a small pinhole through the goop. The proportioning valve had a pin hole open for fluid to flow, the rest of it was gummed shut.

I boiled the calipers, lines and valves for three hours in water and a diluted mix of Simple Green to loosen the crud enough to be cleaned out by air pressure. I got all the water out I can, whatever was left was picked up by the bleed-through process. I pumped almost a whole can of Valvoline Synthetic through before I was satisfied with the feel. I can lock the front tire up now so it skids the pavement, mind you, this is the older Max 2 pot calipers. The FJR's are working perfectly now! I can't wait until I get some R1 calipers up front. As for the clutch, I had to replace a sticking slave cylinder and put a Galfer SS line in place to get it to function properly. Aside from the DD mod making the lever feel like a dragbike's clutch, it's working perfectly!

interesting. mine is hitting the grip too easily too. i'm running the 16mm bore so it shoudl feel similar to my old master cylinder (which had no problems locking the front tire).

does this mean i may need to look into rebuilding my calipers?

 

[one2dmax]

It's possible. The FJR's may be displacing a bit less fluid volume and you may need to adjust the lever or push rod (can't remember if they have an adjustment to take out any play before the plunger is started to engage).

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

It's possible. The FJR's may be displacing a bit less fluid volume and you may need to adjust the lever or push rod (can't remember if they have an adjustment to take out any play before the plunger is started to engage).

Sean

hmm. this is with the lever all the way out (5 adjustments), which i would prefer to run it the the lever closer, but if i do i can have it touch the grip too easily..

i don't know if there is any adjustment but i'll check. i may be missing a part too, if i remember correctly there is a pin touching the caliper which actually gets driven into the m/c, bu tlooks like there should be a cap on the pin which might take up that slack. (the top and second from the top of part #2 here)...

anyone have a picture of a good 2005 fjr master that is working well?

 

[one2dmax]

Doesn't look like it is adjustable like our front brake master is. Now, before you condemn it you may need to ride it. It will feel softer at the lever but put more stopping power out. Again I am not sure about the one with the same bore size.

 

[gamorg02]

Doesn't look like it is adjustable like our front brake master is.

agreed, but if i'm missing that 'cap' then i bet that would take up a TON of the free play.

Now, before you condemn it you may need to ride it. It will feel softer at the lever but put more stopping power out. Again I am not sure about the one with the same bore size.

believe it or not i did ride it for about 30 miles sunday. it did get 'harder' with time meaning where it first started engaging came further out, but i still don't like being able to touch it to the grip at a stand still, with the furthest setting out.

 

[[email protected]]

agreed, but if i'm missing that 'cap' then i bet that would take up a TON of the free play.



believe it or not i did ride it for about 30 miles sunday. it did get 'harder' with time meaning where it first started engaging came further out, but i still don't like being able to touch it to the grip at a stand still, with the furthest setting out.

The "cap" you are referring to on the fiche is actually the rubber boot that surrounds the pin that actuates the piston inside of the master cylinder. Its only purpose is to keep debris from entering the outer bore of the master.

I'm can't say with certainty, but I highly doubt, that the less than .005" of bore diameter between the '05 FJR master and the Vmax master is enough of a difference in size to cause this bad lever feel.

I would try to bleed again.

 

[RagingMain]

I have the FJR masters, the busa calipers and EBC-HH pads and I want to say

!!!!THANK GOD!!!!

and this forum.

I had a GD MthFkr Stupid Dumb Ass Shit for Brains cager pull in front of me yesterday coming to work while I was doing 60 or so. Without these brakes I wouldnt be here right now!!!

If anyone has ever contemplated doing this, DO IT!!!!
Cheers

 

[gamorg02]

The "cap" you are referring to on the fiche is actually the rubber boot that surrounds the pin that actuates the piston inside of the master cylinder. Its only purpose is to keep debris from entering the outer bore of the master.

I'm can't say with certainty, but I highly doubt, that the less than .005" of bore diameter between the '05 FJR master and the Vmax master is enough of a difference in size to cause this bad lever feel.

I would try to bleed again.

ah rubber boot ok. i don't think its there, but either way if it was plastic it migh thelp but def not rubber.

i'll try re-bleeding and reporting back. speed bleeders make that an easy job. maybe try bleeding both calipers at the same time. also could try pushing the pistons back in like u mentioned mike. that way the calipers re-bed sort of.

I have the FJR masters, the busa calipers and EBC-HH pads and I want to say

!!!!THANK GOD!!!!

and this forum.

I had a GD MthFkr Stupid Dumb Ass Shit for Brains cager pull in front of me yesterday coming to work while I was doing 60 or so. Without these brakes I wouldnt be here right now!!!

If anyone has ever contemplated doing this, DO IT!!!!
Cheers

which year you running for your masters fargo?