float adjustment? please help!

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dubious

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what is the procedure for adjusting the floats?
should the carbs be vertical or horizontal, and what are you using for reference.

I am tired of playing with the carbs and hope to get it right this time.

I have a UFO 4-1 pipe, and y baffles removed from the airbox, and KN filter in it.

I currently have the Factory Pro kit installed, have tried every needle postion, and a/f screw position, and 155 mains.

I am at 4000 ft. The bike seems very fat still on the bottom. and stumbles at 2-3K rpm. I have the vboost module and it runs way way better with vboost coming on at 3000 rpm.

I am wondering if I should replace the v boost with some pipe?

Any suggestions guys? any links would be great too!
Also with a worn tire the most I have gotten out of this bike is 138 mph.

Also haveing problems synching carbs, or maintaining synch. is this normal?

Thanks,
Lyle

I have done alot of reading but I could be here for days.
 
sounds like u may have more problems that just one.

how often do they come out of synch? u may need to really clean them out.

if i had to do my carbs again, i'd start at the floats, make sure those are right, wet.

then figure out mains.

then tackle my needles/pilot circuits. only reason i switch the floats with the mains and doing them earlier is because they are the hardest to do and can affect everything.

is your 2-3k stumble (which sounds lean) on WOT, curise/light accel?
 
I dont know if this will help or not. I am at sealevel and running the factory pro jet kit, ition152.5 mains with the y removed from the air box, Im using the very top clip position on the needles. You may be rich at that altitude.
Rhoy
 
Have you tried it with the Y back on?
 
I bought the bike used, and stock with 7000 miles.
I went completely through the carbs when I rejetted.
I have the needles dropped all the way down on leanest postion.
The pipe is all sooted up and it smels rich.

I was thinking I should put the stock needles back in it? and reset the floats.
Factory pro said they figured my floats are set too high, what a PITA, I mean I bought the carb kit thinking it would work witht he pipe, and give me tuneability with the altitude. Hmmmm

I could try it with the y's back in , but I am sure its the needle tip.
pilots are stock, air screws around 2.5 turns

The Factory pro needles should feed way more fuel at 1/4 throttle where I am having this issue.

Thanks for your replies that does help!
 
I dont know if this will help or not. I am at sealevel and running the factory pro jet kit, ition152.5 mains with the y removed from the air box, Im using the very top clip position on the needles. You may be rich at that altitude.
Rhoy

Wow, yes I would say I am rich if you are good at sea level! LOL:bang head:
 
Put stock needles back in,they are very aggressive/rich.
 
I'm at 4200' and have a 147.5 main in my stage 7 (Sean's) kit and runs just fine. 155's were too fat. With his kit, not only is the 'Y' missing but the whole top of the air box is replaced with a filter. I have air restricters that you don't but I have run without the Y like you with no problems. I would run the stock needle with a shim to tailor the midrange along with the 147.5's and see how that works. Of course it needs to coincide with a correct fuel level in the bowl and clean carbs but I'm willing to bet you'll find a sweet spot with that set-up. I'm running a UFO 4-2-2. I also think that you run better when the v-boost comes on at 3k because your pulling vaccume from another carb temporarily leaning you out in the low to mid range untill the mains come on and dump gas in. Use this size comparison for jet steps. Also know that the difference between mikuni jets and dyna jets are that the number size on one is the diameter of the hole and the other is the flow per minute. so don't mix them. click on vmax tech info, then jet size comparison http://vmaxoutlaw.com/main.html
 
Great info here!
Thanks guys.
Vmaxcruzer, where did you get your air filter kit?
 
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