In need of more carb help guys

[choctaw]

So I went completely through the carbs cleaned all jets and pathways well,,,now no more float sticking issues ,,,did not touch a/f screw other than cleaning the little spot that you can get to from the jet block without removing brass caps. And bike seem to have more power for sure but still missing when not WOT and backfires at steady throttle up to 5000 and now after warm up it idles at 3000:bang head::bang head::bang head:

 

[SpecOps13]

Sounds about as bad as my 89 when it had a partially removed stage 7 kit. Can you turn the idle speed screw down any more? Are the carbs Sync'd? You should really remove the brass plugs and set the Air/ Fuel Mixture screws... Any possible air leaks around the boots the carbs mount into?


Just all the stray thoughts I can come up with....

Dave

 

[alorio1]

If you did not remove the A/F screws and clean those circuits, then you haven't cleaned the carbs thoroughly....

 

[dannymax]

Did you remove the jet block and clean the pilot jet & the main bleed pipe? The pilot jets plug very easily, very tiny orifice.

 

[95spfldmax]

Did you remove the jet block and clean the pilot jet & the main bleed pipe? The pilot jets plug very easily, very tiny orifice.

her, snort, hehe.........he said orifice....... :rofl_200:

Seriously though.......your problems are mostly in the bottom half of the throttle range.......the exact areas these guys are telling you to clean....i'd take another pass at them. Count in your a/f screws and write down the settings.....pull it all out including the jet block assy and nail everything REAL good...put parts up to light after shooting them with cleaner and compressed air and make sure you can see through everything.......

 

[choctaw]

there are three holes that are open to the a/f mixture screws and I shot carb cleaner and air through them all,,,,I am pretty sure there are no air leaks around any of the boots,,,but have not synced the carbs and I know that I need to but I don't have a vacuum sync devise to accomplish the task ,,will I have to buy one or what ???

 

[choctaw]

I did take the jet block off and take all jets out and and clean completely but have not removed the brass plugs but it does run rich at idle so maybe I need to drill out the brass plugs and take a crack at the a/f mixture screw but i figured with the brass plugs still intact they should be set from the factory

 

[alorio1]

If you do remove brass plugs to remover A/F screws, I would advise you to spray some PB Blaster penetrating oil into the holes and let it sit overnight. You must have a well fitting screwdriver that fits the screw well (flat head). Hold firm pressure against screw as if you are trying to push the A/F screw in and turn CC to remove screw. If heavy Resistance if felt, turn the screw back in a bit and spray more PB blaster in hole, let it soak a while and try again. If you're A/F screw should strip or the head of screw chips out, it could ruin you're day.......

 

[dannymax]

If you do remove brass plugs to remover A/F screws, I would advise you to spray some PB Blaster penetrating oil into the holes and let it sit overnight. You must have a well fitting screwdriver that fits the screw well (flat head). Hold firm pressure against screw as if you are trying to push the A/F screw in and turn CC to remove screw. If heavy Resistance if felt, turn the screw back in a bit and spray more PB blaster in hole, let it soak a while and try again. If you're A/F screw should strip or the head of screw chips out, it could ruin you're day.......

He should be ok for them being free Joe, with the brass plugs in place it's pretty hard for something to get in there and corrode the springs & stuff. But a good idea to shoot in some PB, Mouse Milk, or some kind of penetrant and let it sit awhile before trying to turn them.

 

[tugla]

He should be ok for them being free Joe, with the brass plugs in place it's pretty hard for something to get in there and corrode the springs & stuff. But a good idea to shoot in some PB, Mouse Milk, or some kind of penetrant and let it sit awhile before trying to turn them.

unk:unk:

 

[Miles Long]

"So I went completely through the carbs cleaned all jets and pathways well,,,now no more float sticking issues ,,,did not touch a/f screw other than cleaning the little spot that you can get to from the jet block without removing brass caps. And bike seem to have more power for sure but still missing when not WOT and backfires at steady throttle up to 5000 and now after warm up it idles at 3000

"

Did you try lowering the idle speed with the idle adjusting thumbscrew?
If so, and you can't get the bike to idle normally (about 1000RPM), this may indicate other problems within the carbs, that the carburator gurus on this forum will be able to help you with.
And before adjusting the thumbscrew - make sure you have the proper play in the throttle cables.

 

[choctaw]

:ummm:took another crack at um,,,removed jet black just like last time went through everything but the a/f ,,,i.e. I didn't remove the brass plugs but the curcit is clean ,,,even with idle screws all the way ou to the point that the sping isn't touching anymore and thin I might lose the screws and still the fast idle and I tried to ride it around to run some of the seafoam through it and the farther I went the worse it got now it is running like a REAL DOG !!!!! ,,,,,,,,new fuel filter and plugs comming soon ,,,so what do you guys think????:bang head:

 

[dannymax]

:ummm:took another crack at um,,,removed jet black just like last time went through everything but the a/f ,,,i.e. I didn't remove the brass plugs but the curcit is clean ,,,even with idle screws all the way ou to the point that the sping isn't touching anymore and thin I might lose the screws and still the fast idle and I tried to ride it around to run some of the seafoam through it and the farther I went the worse it got now it is running like a REAL DOG !!!!! ,,,,,,,,new fuel filter and plugs comming soon ,,,so what do you guys think????:bang head:

I would say the fact that you're seeing a change....even tho it's a change for the worse....indicates you're on the right path. There's some crud inside there somewhere.

 

[choctaw]

thanx dannymax ,,,I will keep trying:confused2:

 

[sdt354]

He should be ok for them being free Joe, with the brass plugs in place it's pretty hard for something to get in there and corrode the springs & stuff. But. a good idea to shoot in some PB, Mouse Milk, or some kind of penetrant and let it sit awhile before trying to turn them.

And, I'd get some plastic plugs for the holes when you're done. Got to keep the crap out or bad things happen in the future, like seized a/f screws. Count the turns till seated gently. That way you can keep the factory set differences between the cylinders. They prollyaren't all the same. Good luck with it.
Steve-o

 

[KJShover]

And, I'd get some plastic plugs for the holes when you're done. Got to keep the crap out or bad things happen in the future,

If you need any let me know, I have several. PM me your address and I'll pop a few in an envelope and get them out to you.

 

[choctaw]

unk:thanx guys been busy as a cat covering up shit and hanen't had time to do anything else as of yet ,,,but tomarrow is another day my friends and I will get something done,,,I hope,, thanks really for all your help ,,,truly is the best forum on the planet !!!!

 

[choctaw]

all is well with the max now other than a 2000 rpm idle ,,,,I need to sync first and then any adjustment will be made thanx guys

 

[94 V-Max Rider]

So I went completely through the carbs cleaned all jets and pathways well,,,now no more float sticking issues ,,,did not touch a/f screw other than cleaning the little spot that you can get to from the jet block without removing brass caps. And bike seem to have more power for sure but still missing when not WOT and backfires at steady throttle up to 5000 and now after warm up it idles at 3000:bang head::bang head::bang head:

I conjecture to say that your slow speed circuit(s) is dirty. The 3,000 RPM 'idle' description you give reinforces that hypothesis. It sounds to me as though the idle circuit is not operating properly, if at all. The idle circuit plays a role at all throttle stages, which would explain why you're having problems well into the mid-range (and probably beyond). What happens when you turn the idle adjustment screw down?

 

[choctaw]

problem fixed ,,,more trash ,,I cleaned and lined the tank and replaced the fuel filter again and all lines and it is running like top !!!Well other then a slightly high idle after warm up (1400 rpms) and I think syncing will solve that as well,,,,thanx again for everybodys help !!!!:eusa_dance:unk::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh: