just a quick question

[gamorg02]

so i'm replacing my pads all the way around they started looking pretty worn. just ran into a small issue on the rear. i'm running a venture rotor back there ( so i think 1mm or so wider than oem). anyways i also run the metal 'backing' plates on the pads. so with the brand new pads and the pistons all the way in the rotor binds ever so slightly on the outboard side pad. Basically there isn't enough room for the pad and backing plate. taking the metal backing off that side fixed this issue, but then when i went to put the locking pins in the slide pins that hold the pads in, that much made the pad bind again. so i swapped which way the pins went in and all seems to be good. anyone see any issues with this or would do it differently?

not sure why i didn't run into this before. different wheel when i had brand new pads before so maybe the lack of the washer swap or the fact that my rotor posts had been machined down since one got fucked up on that old wheel. either way just thought i'd throw it out there.

thanks guys.

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

I know that on 2 of my quads, that when I replaced pads with a set of ebay aftermarket ones, I had the same binding problem. When I removed the thin metal backing plate, the issue disappeared. I think the problem was that the aftermarket pads are a whisker thicker than the OEM ones, thus causing the issue. As far as your pins go, is it possible that one of them is possibly bent? Or perhaps the holes in the pads are not true or loaded with too much paint, causing a "cocking" problem? Just thinking out loud...

 

[bazwell]

I kinda sounds like the piston isn't going all the way back.
If it's not that, you could try a tiny little shim on the axle. In between the wheel and the caliper mount.

 

[gamorg02]

I know that on 2 of my quads, that when I replaced pads with a set of ebay aftermarket ones, I had the same binding problem. When I removed the thin metal backing plate, the issue disappeared. I think the problem was that the aftermarket pads are a whisker thicker than the OEM ones, thus causing the issue. As far as your pins go, is it possible that one of them is possibly bent? Or perhaps the holes in the pads are not true or loaded with too much paint, causing a "cocking" problem? Just thinking out loud...

Nah the pads move smoothly and the pins go straight in. The pads r thicker tho like u said, seemed thicker than normal but I didn't have anything to compare against.

I kinda sounds like the piston isn't going all the way back.
If it's not that, you could try a tiny little shim on the axle. In between the wheel and the caliper mount.

Piston is all the way in. Flush with the housing. That may work with the shim. I think this rotor might be 1 or 2mm thicker than stock which would do it too.


U guys see any issue with the pins reversed?

 

[gamorg02]

on a side question do you guys lube up the alignment pins when you replace pads? i hadn't but maybe its a good idea to eliminate drag. also those are the pins i'm talking about that have to go in backwards on the rear caliper.

 

[naughtyG]

I've never lubed my pins. Hmm does that sound wrong?

 

[gamorg02]

yea i don't think i will. i think the reference i found for this is the pins for floating calipers not the slide pins for fixed. just make sure they're clean is all.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Lubricating would encourage brake dust to stick to them which would probably make matters worse - stick to plan a) and just clean them.

 

[gamorg02]

agreed

 

[davidon]

Is there a recommended universal minimum pad thickness spec for replacement or does it depend on the pad type?

 

[gamorg02]

both vmax's i've owned one side wears down quicker than the other so that one side was getting pretty close to the backing plate and my fronts needed to be replaced as well so i just did 'em all.

 

[naughtyG]

Is there a recommended universal minimum pad thickness spec for replacement or does it depend on the pad type?

Most of the time the minimum is 1mm (0.04")

It's always best to consult the user/service manual for each vehicle though.

In the Vmax Service Manual it actually states 0.5mm (0.02") as the wear limit, but I reckon that's really cutting it fine with rotor damage..

 

[bazwell]

... and I saved the dumb comment for later ...

Get a flat file and rub a bit off the pad. Hey, it works! :eusa_dance:

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

If one side is wearing quicker than the others, it usually means that pistons on 1 side are sticking, or have more resistance than the other side. If it was a caliper with a single piston, then it means the "sliders" are binding, creating uneven wear from 1 side to the other. It happens all the time on quads and dirt bikes, when dirt and sand works its way into the slide pins....gotta disassemble and clean/relube them.

 

[gamorg02]

... and I saved the dumb comment for later ...

Get a flat file and rub a bit off the pad. Hey, it works! :eusa_dance:

i'd be worried about keeping the mating surface level.

If one side is wearing quicker than the others, it usually means that pistons on 1 side are sticking, or have more resistance than the other side. If it was a caliper with a single piston, then it means the "sliders" are binding, creating uneven wear from 1 side to the other. It happens all the time on quads and dirt bikes, when dirt and sand works its way into the slide pins....gotta disassemble and clean/relube them.

i know, and i've rebuild my rear twice and tried to fix it (while trying to trace down a squeal) and it did not. both vmax's i've owned do this and i've seen it on other vmaxes. my brakes don't drag and i've gotten 15k miles out of my pads and my rotors aren't warping or overly hot. so its one of those things i've decided to just not deal with... heh.

 

[[email protected]]

I noticed my rear pads were wearing uneven as well. My '06 has very low mileage and is kept pretty clean. Just wearing uneven for no good reason. I decided to replace the caliper, bracket, and rotor instead of worrying about trying to fix it :biglaugh:

 

[gamorg02]

haha i've considered putting my like new 298mm rotors on the back since i have an adapter. that might do the trick tho. i just don't feel like dropping my rear differential to do it.