Question about clutch master rebuild HELP!

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billydroveit

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Ok, so here's what i did. I got a Max and i'm a car mechanic. I've owned bikes befor but never had to work on them. When i got the Max it had no clutch, meaning had no pressure on teh clutch lever. I tried to bleed it and there was just no pressure being created in teh master. I dismanteled it, and the seals looked a litle dried and there was alot of sludge in the bowl. So i baught a rebuild and installed it. Bleeding was made fairly easy because of the wonderfully helpful informatino i found here.

I back bled it with a syringe, and a hose on teh bleeder at the slave, I did this till i filled the bowl about 4 times. Then i pumped the clutch untill there was pressure. It just didn't seem to have enough travel though. So i went to the banjo fitting at teh master and bled it from there untill it stopped pushing bubbles. Then i pressure bled the slave a few times just to be sure.

Now after all that here's my question. And i ask this because hte battery is bad and i could not start hte bike. WIth teh clutch pushed in, and the trans in gear, should th rear tire spin freely? It does not currently, but I don't know how cycle transmissions work. The clutch feels pretty good, but it just doesn't seem like there's enough to disengage the clutch. And without the engine running I have no clue. Hopefully the battery issue will be resolved in a day or two, but in the mean time i want the opinions of the experts!
 
esp when cold this bike is finicky. it could very well be fine. i'd wait until you can start the bike to see if you have a problem. takes all my might to pop the bike over the first friction point when the bike is cold, in gear and clutch is in.

EDIT: it doesn't take that much force i guess, but when you are already on your tip-toes its tough. ahha
 
I would try bleeding the master cylinder first before attaching the clutch line.
 
Your plates may just be sticking from sitting so long.

Put it on the ground in neutral and give it a good shove.
 
Your plates may just be sticking from sitting so long.

Put it on the ground in neutral and give it a good shove.


It Rolls great when in neutral on the center stand. My question is about when it's in gear with clutch in.

The pull is nice and easy, it just feels like the break comes late, and the handle bar is right there...like it doesn't have enough travel. Like it's pulling off...but not quite enough. I guess the only way i'm going to know is start it up and give it a try. I just don't want to have an "accident"
 
It sounds to me like you haven't quite got the bleeding 100% yet.

Only way to find out is start the motor, pull the clutch, make SURE you're holding the brakes on tight and stick it into gear. If it stalls you still need to bleed more - there's still air somewhere in your clutch S/C, line or M/C.
 
It sounds to me like you haven't quite got the bleeding 100% yet.

Only way to find out is start the motor, pull the clutch, make SURE you're holding the brakes on tight and stick it into gear. If it stalls you still need to bleed more - there's still air somewhere in your clutch S/C, line or M/C.


\Ok So i can try to put it in gear...and if it stalls keep bleeding! ok

So i'm guessing that one of the signs of the S/C going out isn't shallow operation. They just bleed down while holding the clutch, or leak right?

Cuz it' not like if it sits for a few hours i have to pump it back up. I left teh bike for 3 days, and it felt exactl the same as it did the minute i was done bleeding it. Any other suggestions on bleeding? Pump up the clutch, then bleed at the slave?? Or open the slave bleeder, depress the master slowely and close befor releasing?
 
When I did mine, I emptied the MC and line, but not the SC. Then when bleeding I couldn't make it work just like you, until I reverse bled from the bleeder with a syringe, then it came back to normal.
 
When I did mine, I emptied the MC and line, but not the SC. Then when bleeding I couldn't make it work just like you, until I reverse bled from the bleeder with a syringe, then it came back to normal.

I started with the back bleed hooked up a hose to a squeez bottle and kept pushing fluid up, used a turkey baister to keep emptying the bowl untill clean fluid came out. You think I should try and back bleed it again? This is worse that bleeding a clutch on a Ranger!
 
I dunno - did u completely empty your slave cylinder too? I've never been near that one..

I sure found it weird to start with - hardest bitch to bleed until I worked it out!
 
I started with the back bleed hooked up a hose to a squeez bottle and kept pushing fluid up, used a turkey baister to keep emptying the bowl untill clean fluid came out. You think I should try and back bleed it again? This is worse that bleeding a clutch on a Ranger!

I rebuilt my clutch system last winter and had a frustrating time getting the pressure back up. What turned out to work is I had the M/C filled and capped tight, unmounted the M/C from the handle bar and moved it around as I indexed it and the trapped air bubbles became dislodged and I had great pressure after that..............and I mean I was pretty irritated to that point having put 4 or 5 M/C fills through and spending hours with no success til then..........:bang head::bang head:.......worked for me.....
 
I rebuilt my clutch system last winter and had a frustrating time getting the pressure back up. What turned out to work is I had the M/C filled and capped tight, unmounted the M/C from the handle bar and moved it around as I indexed it and the trapped air bubbles became dislodged and I had great pressure after that..............and I mean I was pretty irritated to that point having put 4 or 5 M/C fills through and spending hours with no success til then..........:bang head::bang head:.......worked for me.....

Mike...did you try a Mighty Vac? I'm wondering if it would pull fluid from the M/C res through the system without add'l. bleeding?
 
I dunno - did u completely empty your slave cylinder too? I've never been near that one..

I sure found it weird to start with - hardest bitch to bleed until I worked it out!


I did not empty the slave, just removed the master and rebuilt it with the line left high so it wouldn't drain out. I think i'm going to tyr and reverse bleed again, then pressure bleed the slave again.
 
I rebuilt my clutch system last winter and had a frustrating time getting the pressure back up. What turned out to work is I had the M/C filled and capped tight, unmounted the M/C from the handle bar and moved it around as I indexed it and the trapped air bubbles became dislodged and I had great pressure after that..............and I mean I was pretty irritated to that point having put 4 or 5 M/C fills through and spending hours with no success til then..........:bang head::bang head:.......worked for me.....


So you unbolted the master and just raised it up and moved it around? You weren't cycling the clutch or anything, just moved it, and turned it?
 
A mighty vac makes this job a snap. You'll use it again for something else too.


I have access to a vac bleeder, but i figured after all these tricks, i could avoid getting my hands on it....maybe i'll just get it and be done with it.
 
Ok, so here's what i did. I got a Max and i'm a car mechanic. I've owned bikes befor but never had to work on them. When i got the Max it had no clutch, meaning had no pressure on teh clutch lever. I tried to bleed it and there was just no pressure being created in teh master. I dismanteled it, and the seals looked a litle dried and there was alot of sludge in the bowl. So i baught a rebuild and installed it. Bleeding was made fairly easy because of the wonderfully helpful informatino i found here.

I back bled it with a syringe, and a hose on teh bleeder at the slave, I did this till i filled the bowl about 4 times. Then i pumped the clutch untill there was pressure. It just didn't seem to have enough travel though. So i went to the banjo fitting at teh master and bled it from there untill it stopped pushing bubbles. Then i pressure bled the slave a few times just to be sure.

Now after all that here's my question. And i ask this because hte battery is bad and i could not start hte bike. WIth teh clutch pushed in, and the trans in gear, should th rear tire spin freely? It does not currently, but I don't know how cycle transmissions work. The clutch feels pretty good, but it just doesn't seem like there's enough to disengage the clutch. And without the engine running I have no clue. Hopefully the battery issue will be resolved in a day or two, but in the mean time i want the opinions of the experts!

The answer is NO. The back wheel will not move freely. Unless your the HULK.
Just because the engine is not running and you have it in gear and the clutch in does not mean that it will turn freely. It is in neutral with it in gear and the clutch in, but there are so many factors that come into play between your left hand and the rear wheel. You can push it, that should work, as long as the plates aren't stuck together from sitting. It is normal for that to happen. (not move freely) :ummm:
 

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