Rear Axle assembly

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namyzzo

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..Just removed my rear wheel from a 1999 vmax.. I am trying to figure out the proper way to re assemble...

..There was a washer inside the diff stuck in place - but i dont think it goes there - as a washer was missing between the frame and brake caliper bracket.. ( looking at the grease marks left by the drive gears/cogs - I can see that the thickness of this washer is not allowing full cog engagement, albeit 97% is engaged)

using the crotchrocket sites diagrams and my manual I dont believe the washer goes inbetween the diff / wheel
:ummm:
any good pictures out there?

--- I borrowed these pics...
 

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you are right. people move the washer there so the tire doesn't have any rubbing issues. called the 'washer swap'.
 
This is typically only needed when you are running a 170mm rear tire, and sometimes not even then. Move the washer to the right side between the brake mount bracket and the swing arm (feel free to correct me anyone, as I am not looking at the bike right now), tighten everything up, and see if the rear tire rubs. The washer swap will offer less engagement than the factory mount, but I never have heard anyone destroy their differential because of it.
 
..Yah, I went ahead and installed it in stock location..No tire rubbing at all..and there was tire clearance to begin with...

..I wonder how the position of the washer affects how the tire lineup with each other..Would seem if tires were not in-line with each other we might get some unwanted effects?? ... wobble or ?? .... Was trying to figure out an easy way to check this..


... b.t.w. = I was installing a new Galfer rotor and pads.. After I was done I measured the thickness of the stock rotor and it was approx .300 (book wearlimit is .280) ... The Galfer measured .200 .. Hmm whats up with this? .. Are the Galfer pads thicker, or because the rotor is solid it can be thinner? ... just food for thought..

>>Thanks for the fast replies.. I just had to get it ready tonight!! :punk:
 

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..Yah, I went ahead and installed it in stock location..No tire rubbing at all..and there was tire clearance to begin with...

..I wonder how the position of the washer affects how the tire lineup with each other..Would seem if tires were not in-line with each other we might get some unwanted effects?? ... wobble or ?? .... Was trying to figure out an easy way to check this..


... b.t.w. = I was installing a new Galfer rotor and pads.. After I was done I measured the thickness of the stock rotor and it was approx .300 (book wearlimit is .280) ... The Galfer measured .200 .. Hmm whats up with this? .. Are the Galfer pads thicker, or because the rotor is solid it can be thinner? ... just food for thought..

>>Thanks for the fast replies.. I just had to get it ready tonight!! :punk:
to check the alignment you can use string run across the edges of the rear tire up to the front. That will show any off set in the tracking of the wheels.
Fast responses are pretty much the norm around here!:punk:
 
Placing the washer in the correct place actually lines up the wheels better than with the "washer swap". The rear wheel is offset to the right even in the stock position. I have an 18" wheel with a 170/60 tire and had to do the washer swap. Probably only required with a 180 on a 17" wheel. The swing arm gets smaller the farther you get into it so the larger the wheel the smaller the tire width that fits without mods.
 
I'm running a 170 metz. No washer swap here. My swingarm is set up for a 200 on a 17" rim, but if it were still stock I wouldn't be rubbing with the 170.
I can't right off hand remember the stock offset, the monkey holding my credit card and looking through parts catalogs tells me it's about 3/8"
 
.I wonder how the position of the washer affects how the tire lineup with each other..Would seem if tires were not in-line with each other we might get some unwanted effects?? ... wobble or ?? .... Was trying to figure out an easy way to check this..

Don't sweat about it, it is said that the stock wheels are offset anyway although I have never attempted to prove of disprove it.
Coming from a chopper building background, the rule of thumb was up to 1/2" offset.
Some of the Suzuki wheel conversions I've seen on the Vmax's are so far off it's ridiculous, like about 20mm yet we don't seem to hear of horror stories regarding the handling on those either....just some weird looking wear patterns on the rear tyre. :barf:
 
:punk: Hey, there is about a 10mm offset in the stock configuration. I send my bikes to Computrack and they align the frame and wheels to follow one another. This always ends any wobbles you have. This service is only about $600 and way cheaper than all the things the mod monkey will have you try. Good luck, Spur
 
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