So what torque should the rear axle be set at

[SPOFF]

The old style nut that used a cotter pin had a torque value of around 55 lbs. It's the newer style nut that has the very high 100+ spec. I cranked mine to around 85-90 lbs. I'm sure it'll stay put. BTW, I found the bolts that hold on the calipers much more interesting: the spec is 25 ft/lbs, but the factory used about half a tube of blue locktite on each one. :ummm:

Of course having a caliper come off would suck. :blink000:

 

[Buster Hymen]

The old style nut that used a cotter pin had a torque value of around 55 lbs. It's the newer style nut that has the very high 100+ spec. I cranked mine to around 85-90 lbs. I'm sure it'll stay put. BTW, I found the bolts that hold on the calipers much more interesting: the spec is 25 ft/lbs, but the factory used about half a tube of blue locktite on each one. :ummm:

Of course having a caliper come off would suck. :blink000:

Running the rear axle when it is torqued down too tight, makes the rear end run too hot. 80+ pounds is too tight, I wouldn't run over 40 pounds.

 

[vmaxx05stud]

i think thats way to tight. my book doesnt say anything like that high torque.

 

[4gasem]

Running the rear axle when it is torqued down too tight, makes the rear end run too hot. 80+ pounds is too tight, I wouldn't run over 40 pounds.

Never heard that one before...

The Carrozzeria wheels I have say to divide the stock torque value by half so I am running just over 40ftlbs on the rear and about that up front too...

 

[SPOFF]

Hate to say it because this has been beaten to death, but the official Yamaha spec for the original cotter pinned axle nut was 85 ft/lbs. (pg 6-6, December 1984 version of shop manual). Subsequent supplemental manuals covering the new style compression nut are even higher.

 

[gleno]

Some say 55ft.lb then change to 35ft.lb while the manual says 110ft.lb
what is the final word on that???????? it shouldn't be that hard to find the correct torque,does any one have access to an FJR manual or a venture manual? they are all the same design.:confused2:
It has been circulated that the vmax service manual ( 110ft.lb ) is wrong
So what is the correct torque for the rear axle nut?:damn angry:
Can we get the final word on this.
Thanks

Here you go

 

[one2dmax]

I don't really give a crap what they say the torque should be but I agree that 40-50lbs is more then enough. They also say other things but then you end up with recalled parts so they aren't always perfect.

Sean Morley

 

[shawn kloker]

I personnally just tighten mine till it feels good.No play.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I'm not throwing a number out there but this is just an observation from last week when I had the wheel off installing a new tire.

The rear wheel bearings are NOT tapered bearings like on the front of a car.

There is a metal "tube" that runs through the wheel and serves as the "crush" point (instead of the bearings) when the axle nut is tightened down.

Assembled correctly it looks to me like there is no lateral force applied to the rear axle bearings no mater what the torque number is, but the bushing on the non drive side of the wheel that catches on the necked down portion of the axle and transfers that load to the wheel itself does push the wheel hard against the pumpkin dependent on torque.

My question or thought is that if things are getting hot in the pumpkin then the ring and pinion lash may be getting disturbed.

I wonder how many of these hot rear ends have the "washer swap" ?

Does the washer swap cause tightening forces to be incorrectly distributed to the inside face of the pumkin, affecting the ring/pinion lash?

Does greasing the rubber seal between the pumpkin and the wheel have anything to do with this?


Isn't a 2 minute back rub supposed to automatically qualify a man for sex from his wife girlfriend?


And lastly, how come when I go the crapper theres never any paper?


Later

Rusy

 

[Dreamster66]

I'm not throwing a number out there but this is just an observation from last week when I had the wheel off installing a new tire.

The rear wheel bearings are NOT tapered bearings like on the front of a car.

There is a metal "tube" that runs through the wheel and serves as the "crush" point (instead of the bearings) when the axle nut is tightened down.

Assembled correctly it looks to me like there is no lateral force applied to the rear axle bearings no mater what the torque number is, but the bushing on the non drive side of the wheel that catches on the necked down portion of the axle and transfers that load to the wheel itself does push the wheel hard against the pumpkin dependent on torque.

My question or thought is that if things are getting hot in the pumpkin then the ring and pinion lash may be getting disturbed.

I wonder how many of these hot rear ends have the "washer swap" ?

Does the washer swap cause tightening forces to be incorrectly distributed to the inside face of the pumkin, affecting the ring/pinion lash?

Does greasing the rubber seal between the pumpkin and the wheel have anything to do with this?


Isn't a 2 minute back rub supposed to automatically qualify a man for sex from his wife girlfriend?


And lastly, how come when I go the crapper theres never any paper?


Later

Rusy

the axle questions....I dont know....
back rub..... YES...... but it has to be 10 minutes
and an answer to your last question..... cause I used it all!:th_flipthebird:

 

[gamorg02]

In talking to danny, we had discussed this. i always put mine about 110 ft lbs. i will play with it a bit in the next week see if i feel a difference at lower torque-age... maybe my wobble will be helped by this as well...

 

[lankeeyankee]

I dont use a torque wrench on this hardware.. Here is what I do....

Rear of the bike is on jack stands.
Thread the axle nut on.
Spin the tire with one hand as you are tightening the axle nut.
As soon as you feel restriction back the nut off 1/4 turn.
Leave it.

There ya have it !!

 

[gamorg02]

I dont use a torque wrench on this hardware.. Here is what I do....

Rear of the bike is on jack stands.
Thread the axle nut on.
Spin the tire with one hand as you are tightening the axle nut.
As soon as you feel restriction back the nut off 1/4 turn.
Leave it.

There ya have it !!

thanks lankee i'll give it a shot..

just a question, how tight do you usually think that gets it.. 50 ft lbs?

 

[lankeeyankee]

thanks lankee i'll give it a shot..

just a question, how tight do you usually think that gets it.. 50 ft lbs?

I dont have a clue.. I know its not to tight nor to loose.

Two adjustments that vary are steering head bearings and rear axles. Thats why you need to feel them while tightening hardware