MONTREALMAX
Well-Known Member
Hello, I need to work on the starter clutch. Has anyone posted pictures of the job on this site? just wondering before I start scraping knuckles
starter clutch replacement
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lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
Ohh fun job.. well its not bad at all once you get the flywheel off.
Remove the left engine cover where the stator is.
Now look that SOB of a fly wheel in the eye and get ready for a battle with it..
Once the flywheel is off your home free to start replacing the parts that are defective / worn out. ohh dont forget to look for the springs and silver barrel thingys that flew over the garage from the inner of the flywheel.
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I'm have to replace my pick up coil so I will take pictures of that. It is the same steps you need to do to get to the starter clutch, except I won't be removing the flywheel. Get a proper puller for the flywheel!
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
There's been a lotta talk about how much of a bitch it is to remove that flywheel, but no real tips, tricks or instructions other than 'get a proper puller' for it.
Does anyone have a bit more light to be shed on this subject?
Does anyone have a bit more light to be shed on this subject?
One of these days I'll have some adapters made for my puller to make the job easier.
The problem is the bolts that are going through the puller are so long that they stretch easily and you lose pulling strength to the bolt flex. Get a good set of grade 8 bolts and washers which will help. I have been using my 20 year old craftsman puller without much problem (other then the flywheel can really get stuck on there).
Sean
The problem is the bolts that are going through the puller are so long that they stretch easily and you lose pulling strength to the bolt flex. Get a good set of grade 8 bolts and washers which will help. I have been using my 20 year old craftsman puller without much problem (other then the flywheel can really get stuck on there).
Sean
jedi-
Well-Known Member
Most pullers work by exerting pressure thru the centre and adds to the drama of being difficult to turn because the tighter it goes the more it gets squashed on the mating turning surfaces making it even more difficult,
But wait.. there's the "Jedi" super puller:eusa_dance: this is the one I modified from my XV750 , anyway you only need to evenly do up the outer 3 studs and it will be off in less than 1 minute
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naughtyG
Well-Known Member
hey is that the "Jedi Superpuller ?" ?
where do I buy one LOL
where do I buy one LOL
MONTREALMAX
Well-Known Member
What pullers are you guys having success with? Does anyone have a link to a puller that they have used for the job? My last puller is scrap and I need to replace it
Does anyone have the Yam part numbers needed for any replacement parts recommended for the job.....gaskets and gears etc...
It sounds like a can of smashed a-holes down there I am sure I have pooched a gear or something.....
Does anyone have the Yam part numbers needed for any replacement parts recommended for the job.....gaskets and gears etc...
It sounds like a can of smashed a-holes down there I am sure I have pooched a gear or something.....
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
If you goto Bikebandit.com you will find all of the OEM parts you need in a microfische style diagram. I would remove the flywheel and see what needs replaced, since you ignored my last post about parts I would then look at the microphische and order every single nut, bolt, screw etc that is in a 1ft radius. That should cover every part then.
I just used my craftsman again last night. Worked just fine with the grade 8 bolts. Tighten as good as the impact will go them wack the end of the center with a hammer and popped right off. I did go ahead and zip tie the starter clutch wheel to the flywheel which kept it in place and prevented all the little parts from flying around. A little duct tape would work too.
Sean
Sean
I used a 3 jaw puller. Tightened it up as tight as I could and then whaked the center bolt with a 3lb hammer and it popped off. A couple suggestions. Before you put on the puller, just break loose the bold holding the flywheel on and back it out maybe 1/8". Leave it there and use the puller against the top of the bolt. When the flywheel does let go it can fly off with some force. The bolt will keep it in place when it lets go. You will hear a pop like a 22 cal shot. Then remove puller and take the bolt and flywheel off.
Another tip is put a big wrench on the nut of the flywheel before you put on the puller. This will allow you to hold the flywheel while you are torquing on the puller center bolt.
Good luck
Jim N
Another tip is put a big wrench on the nut of the flywheel before you put on the puller. This will allow you to hold the flywheel while you are torquing on the puller center bolt.
Good luck
Jim N
MONTREALMAX
Well-Known Member
thanks guys appreciate the help
Lankee I went with a two foot radius instead just to be safe
my dealer just invited me to Hawaii
Lankee I went with a two foot radius instead just to be safe
my dealer just invited me to Hawaii
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
:clapping: with the 2 ft radius I am just a poor boy living in the TN Hills so I guesstimated a 1in radius... Good luck with the job let us know how ya made out with removing the flywheel... One hint from another member in a previous post.. After you break the main bolt loose dont remove it all the way... I would say 2 full turns from it being completly out.. What this does is when the flywheel decides to )))POP((( loose it wont fly off and hit you in the nuts, knock your toofer out, or dot your eye.
I would not unscrew the bolt that far. It is not necessary and could possibly damage the threads. 1/8" undone is more than enough. 1/16" is actually enough. When it lets loose you will know.
Jim N
Jim N
The 'hammer thing' worked for me recently. I ended up smacking the puller hex head at an angle to get mine off. When it decided to come loose, it shot off. Stand off to the side when you start beat'n. Use a 2 lb hammed. Didn't have an impact. Used a crescent on the hex head of the fw to keep it stationary.
Dont have to stand to the side if you leave the bolt in and just loosen it a couple turns. You dont risk damaging the flywheel magnets by letting it smash to the floor either.
.02
Jim
.02
Jim
Hello,
Here is my arrangement.
You can see the flywheel puller and the "holding wrench" in place in the attached photo. The torque wrench I use is approximately same length as is the holding wrench (scale 40-280 Nm). With this arrangement, it is no problem to get the flywheel released. The flywheel puller and the holding wrench are self made, but I believe it is possible to buy similar ones from a shop.
I had to upgrade the arrangement after finding out the difficulties with ordinary tools.
Regards,
AT
Here is my arrangement.
You can see the flywheel puller and the "holding wrench" in place in the attached photo. The torque wrench I use is approximately same length as is the holding wrench (scale 40-280 Nm). With this arrangement, it is no problem to get the flywheel released. The flywheel puller and the holding wrench are self made, but I believe it is possible to buy similar ones from a shop.
I had to upgrade the arrangement after finding out the difficulties with ordinary tools.
Regards,
AT
