Busa/R1 Front Brakes

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Ok 2 out of 3 steps done. Pictures taken and now uploaded on computer. I will attempt posting them when I get home from daughter's soccer practice. Stay tuned.
 
I found a set of black Hayabusa calipers on ebay (Thanks Michael!) and once I get the adaptors from Sean I should be good to go. Just trying to be like my hero Mark!:worthy:
Sean, I sent you a paypal for the caliper adapters also for the oil fill cap/ breather and "t" adapter. I forgot to put a description of what it was for though, let me know if you have any questions/ problems. Thanks, Brian
 
I found a set of black Hayabusa calipers on ebay (Thanks Michael!) and once I get the adaptors from Sean I should be good to go. Just trying to be like my hero Mark!:worthy:
Sean, I sent you a paypal for the caliper adapters also for the oil fill cap/ breather and "t" adapter. I forgot to put a description of what it was for though, let me know if you have any questions/ problems. Thanks, Brian

Red Boner, you're going to love it.
 
Ok everyone this worked on a different thread, so here are the pictures.
 

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Thanks guys. I appreciate all the help you guys gave me thru this transformation. I'm still working on getting her to be more mine than the previous owner. Next will be changing the flatslides to stock and installing Sean's Muscle Kit, upgraded rear suspension, jet coat the exhaust (at least the can, previous owner put cheap chrome that is coming off) and maybe some MEK levers.
 
I like those rotors. Looks like they would weigh less than the factory V-Max pieces. Here's a pic of the factory V-Max ones for reference. Anybody know how much each weighs?

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Did my busa brakes conversion. I snagged some busa calipers for $60.00 with shipping. I got new galfer lines from Sean for about $150 (but that included a rear and clutch line), I got new wave rotors from china via Ebay, I think I paid about $190 or so. Finally, I got an adapter from Sean for $45.00 with shipping.

The install was straight forward once you have all the parts, except that the new calipers were RUBBING on the new wave rotors. I ended up grinding a bit of the metal out of the calipers where the rotor sweeps through. We're talking 1/32" here, but it was enough to make it rub. The wheel still turned, but the noise was unnerving.

Once the new system was bled, the brakes sucked pretty much equally as the OEM set up! However, I very quickly noticed that only about 50% of the rotor was being contacted, and I obviously was aware that my 1.2 mile test drive was woefully insufficient to properly bed the pads/rotor. So the next day, god gave me dry roads (but cold weather), and I really laid into the pads. Let's see, a mile or so in second gear, hard throttle, and about 3/4 braking force ... yeah, that should heat the little suckers up. Then some hard stops from very high speeds, and viola ... one hell of a joy ride and magically, my brakes were bedded and working AWESOME!

Anyway, I can now lock the up front wheel no problem, which of course is NOT my my goal, but rather, a good indication that I can squeeze as much braking force out of the pads/rotors/lines/calipers as the tire can handle.

Also, it used to be the case that I really had to bear claw the brake lever, but now, a simple squeeze gives plenty of brake force. I had previously noticed that I was THINKING about when and how hard to brake, because i was so worried about my ability to stop, but now, with the busa conversion and after bedding in the brakes, I DO NOT think about my braking, but rather, I just enjoy the ride. This to me means that the brakes are doing what they are supposed to.

I'm a happy camper ... and highly recommend doing this mod.
 
Question:

Anybody got a good/cheap source for Busa caliper HH Sintered pads? I've got the OEM stockers on, which work fine, but they probably don't have more than a season left in them, and I'm also a HUGE fan of sintered pads, knowing what they've done for me in the past.
 
I just got in some Galfer pads (HH I think) to stock for the busa calipers.

Sean
 
Hey Geek (or warrior) would you mind posting a pic showing exactly where you needed to grind a sliver off the calipers? I'm about to powdercoat mine and I'd like to grind em first. Thanks!
 
Was I not the first that had that issue? That's comforting to know. I'm actually gonna take mine off soon to rattle can them.

The yellow powder coating didn't come out they way the color looked in the book, so I'm not too jazzed about it. Anyway, I can snap a pic at that time, but it will be probably a week or so.

However, its just the interior sweep, and in particular, the most inside ridges where the rotor travels through, on each side of the opening in the center. This all makes perfect sense in my head ... but I'll still get you pic when I remove mine.

If warrior beats me to it, then that is fine too.
 
Geek will have to be the man with the pictures but I would suggest that you put them on the bike and the then just spin it and it give you a good idea of where and how much. Typically in the center of the housing. Each bolt on will be slightly different some will have to take more off and other less where others not at all. It will be slightly different on each bike I believe, so if you are going to paint I would definitely mock it up first.
 
OK. I'll snap some pics when I take them off for re-painting. No powder coating this time. That was a total pain in the ass on the calipers an I regret doing it. Although, perhaps I would have been happy if the color worked out. Oh well.
 
Haha I saw this too late. I have my calipers all disassembled for PCing. Ah well, we'll see how it works out. I could bolt the two halves back together without the pistons in just to see how they fit. Problem is I also have the whole front end off and I haven't switched rotors yet. Maybe I should just wait until they are ready to go back on. Looks like I'm in no rush, but I'd still appreciate a pic if its no prob.
 
I'll get the pics no problem. It's not that bad putting the things back together. I am assuming of course that you removed the internal seals on each piston for PC?

If not, they will melt.

Anyway, the reassembly is fairly straight forward, the worst part for me was having to grind down all the PC in areas where the guy did a poor job of masking and sealing. You may consider doing that yourself, as it is obviously important to have a clean and smooth seal in places like where the lines attach.

I'll get you pics.
 
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