Busa/R1 Front Brakes

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WarriorR6

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This weekend I did my front brake conversion on my 89 Vmax. I used a set of 2000 R1 rotors, 2007 Busa caliper, EBC HH pads, Galfer lines and Sean's adapter. Everything went only easily, we did have to file away a little of the caliper housing. What a HUGE difference in the braking performance. I came from riding an R6 and a Warrior and quite frankily I was concerned about the Vmax braking. I actually limited my riding until I got this done. I have to tell you I'm having an issue with one of the rotors I bought on eBay being warped and the bike pulsates when I apply the brakes, so I am in search of another rotor to change out that side. Even this issue the bike still stops 70% better than before. I felt much more comfortable stopping even with the pulsating. I can't wait to get the rotor replaced so I can get the complete benefit. Big thanks to Sean for putting this together and all of words of advice. Once I get the other rotor on I'll take pictures and post them here, once I figure out how to do that.
 
Try lubing the buttons holding the rotor to the inner hub/web. USE GRAPHITE and ONLY GRAPHITE and you don't need much.

Of course clean them with non-chlorinated brake clean first and then lube.

Most of the time they are locked up and can't move which causes the warped feel.

Chris
 
There is actual some visual damage to the rotor. It looks like something hit it or it hit something along the edge. That slight edge or rim feel is gone on about 3 to 4 inches of it on outside edge. I'm going to try and swap the one out and see uf that eliminates it. Thanks Chris.
 
Try lubing the buttons holding the rotor to the inner hub/web. USE GRAPHITE and ONLY GRAPHITE and you don't need much.

Of course clean them with non-chlorinated brake clean first and then lube.

Most of the time they are locked up and can't move which causes the warped feel.

Chris

Chris,

I had a look at those 'buttons' on my wave rotors. To me they all look like rivets, and each and every one feels totally tight. I can't seem to get my head around how they would actually move, they seem stuck in place. Are you saying they should all be rotating freely?
 
Yes, the rotor should be "loose" on those rivets/buttons and have a subtle amount of play. Thus the "floating" rotors.

Sean
 
So, if they feel 'stuck' like that, what's the procedure? I know Chris is saying put a little graphite on there, but if it still won't budge, then what?
 
Ok, now I have to replace my replacement set of rotors. Another pair of damaged Ebay rotors. The inside part was badly grooved that they are managable. Luckily Sean is coming thru and sending me a few to pick from.

Question, it looks like the rubber stoppers on my rear OEM shocks crumbled in the spring. It took me a while to relieve what it was because it was the other side didn't have one either. How traggic is that?
 
Ok, now I have to replace my replacement set of rotors. Another pair of damaged Ebay rotors. The inside part was badly grooved that they are managable. Luckily Sean is coming thru and sending me a few to pick from.

Question, it looks like the rubber stoppers on my rear OEM shocks crumbled in the spring. It took me a while to relieve what it was because it was the other side didn't have one either. How traggic is that?

rubber stoppers?
 
Looks like with in the spring on the shock with was a rubber stopper, maybe there to prevent metal to metal if shock bottoms outs is my guess. It was in pieces in the spring and I had no idea where is come from. I looked at the other side and it didn't have one, so I couldn't figure how it got there. It thougt it highly unlikely it got in there from the road or some other part of the bike because of the size of a couple of pieces and space in the spring to let it in. So, I started looking at some older pictures of the bike and there is was on the around the internal part of the shock.
 
To help prevent metal to metal contact on really hard bumps.

Sean
 
Ok I'm going to have to change the title of this thread to Busa/Warrior front brakes. After buying 2 sets of R1 rotors off of eBay that turned out damaged, Sean was nice enough to send me a "box-o-rotors" of 94+ Vmax rotors to pick thru. We picked what seemed to be the best two rotors but we couldn't get the bolts off and are having to drill each of them off. I have to order a new set of bolts, so I don't want to risk something being wrong with these rotors and having to get the bolts off again. I decided to make the executive decision of just biting the bullet and a new set of rotors. Fortunately I've developed a pretty good relationship with the parts guys of the past 6 years and 3 bikes. I can get a new set of 05 Warrior rotors for $125/rotor, so that is the direction I am going. I believe that is the last year Warrior rotor that has that has them same bolt pattern/separation. I should have the rotors and bolts on by the end of next week hopefully. Thanks for sending over the rotors Sean. I sent you an email so you can tell me where you would like me to forward them to.
 
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Alrighty, I picked up the bike today after having the 3rd set of rotors put on. As I stated earlier, I decided to go with a new set of 05 Warrior rotors because I grew tired of the the problems with all of the rotors I bought off of eBay. WOW!!! Amazing difference!!! Honestly I hate trying to stop this thing since I bought. Stock was like trying to stop a boat, 1st eBay set of R1 rotor was better but pulsated because of damage and second set of eBay rotors were so grooved that it didn't stop smooth. But now? I feel just of comfortable stopping this bike as I do my Warrior or my old R6. The stopping is good that I would strongly recommend anyone doing to upgrade your front suspension. I put both the Progressive Spring and Ricor unit. Great job Sean!!!! Thanks for all your help. Next will be rear suspension upgrade, MEK levers and changing out the flatside carbs for
Sean's Muscle Jet Kit. I'll rearch how to post pictures and add pictures for all to see.
 
I still say for the early fork guys it doesn't get any better. In fact I feel that it's better then we can do for the newer forks. I like the smoother braking transition that you can feel what it's doing.

Glad you are happy and thanks,
Sean
 
I agree. I am an admitted close follower. I do tend to ride closer to cars infront of me. I've also like my chances of braking versus the car infront of me versus the car behind. The success of this technic has always relied upon the confidence in the braking of the bikes I've been riding. When I first got the Vmax I was very uncomfortable riding because I couldn't ride the way I was comfortable. Now I feel as comfortable as either my Warrior or old R6. I do not condone tailgating for the record. I just tend to feel more comfortable closer to the car infront of me versus the person behind me.
 
Since putting on my front wave rotors with EBC HH pads, braking has been pretty incredible. I originally had some vibes problems but they were due to bad caliper alignment because I failed to check everything had clearances before tightening everything up and screwed up my spacers.
Since renewing them, as well as adding the Galfer braided lines (was already braided but too short), it now brakes flawlessly, and the power available on the brake lever's pretty unreal - I can make my front tire squeal, and that's with stock M/C and single pot calipers!

I also like the Progressive springs / Ricor / 5W oil combination at the front very much - I really have no complaints anymore.
 
I have the same setup as G and it is a vast improvement over stock for sure. That being said, I will be going the next step and adding hayabusa calipers and FJR M/C. I want the 2 finger whoa power like my brothers FZ1!
Sean, if I can't get a set of black calipers I will send the gold ones to you for coating and a will then need a matching coated adapter. It should be first of October, I'll PM when ready for prices.
 
OK, will keep an eye out. Might take a little longer since the caliper has to be completely taken apart to coat.

Sean
 
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