Checking/adding fork air

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jmailley

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'93 stock Max.

How are you guys doing this? I have a bicycle tire pump with a gauge but don't seem to be able to get enough air in them. It either puts too much pressure or I go too soft and it doesn't get enough. I did the seals/fluid last year and still can't get the pressure right. Thoughts?
 
I hit mine with a slight bump of the air chuck from my compressor. Sometimes get as much as 14psi doing it that way, but just use my guage to recheck until it comes down to about 11psi. My forks are still OEM, and I've never had any problems maintaining pressure and zero leaks. Only have had to add air after fork oil changeouts, when doing my head bearings, or occasionally in the spring when I check and lose psi due to the guage itself letting off air when checking.
 
It front end dives pretty easily under hard braking, that's what makes me think they need some air. Stock springs I think. Should I recheck the oil level? Could that affect the "diving?"
 
It front end dives pretty easily under hard braking, that's what makes me think they need some air. Stock springs I think. Should I recheck the oil level? Could that affect the "diving?"

The air will just give you a little preload, won't help with the dive.

The best thing to do is either replace your (weak) stock spring with Racetech or Progressive ones. Fantastic upgrade, not expensive and quite easy to do.
 
I have '96 Vmax, Is there a place to check air pressure on my bike? Is there a tool to adjust the rear shocks? Everything is stock, BTW...
 
It front end dives pretty easily under hard braking, that's what makes me think they need some air. Stock springs I think. Should I recheck the oil level? Could that affect the "diving?"

Check sag of forks when bike is upright (free standing) versus on centre (no weight on forks) - if more than 1.5" with no air in forks, than need to replace springs.

Best inexpensive mod for front end is new Progressive or rcaetech springs and no air. If you can't afford that, than you can put longer spacers in fork tubes to add preload and reduce diving.

Mike
 
I know that I didn't have any problems with my forks with my stock '92's brakes. But then again the bike would not stop within any reasonable distance!
All kidding aside, your '93 has better brakes in stock form than a '92 would. I would seriously think about upgrading from the stock springs to either Racetech (you tell them your weight and they set you up with the correct straight rate spring) or Progressive (they're a progressive rate spring).
With either Racetech or Progressive you can get lowering kits to lower your fork ride height either 1" or 2".
Racetech offers a custom revalving(Gold Valve Emulators) that you install and adjust by the number of washers to tailor the valve action to your liking.
Ricor offers a adjustable valve (Intiminator)that you use with 5 wt oil that works by reacting to tire movements vs chassis movements.
The links should help you decide what you need, if not there has been plenty of discussion on here that should help. If not, just ask!
 
I have discovered a design problem with racetech springs. I brought a set. Then over a couple of years I lost some weight and the bike lost some weight. The spring action of the forks became increasingly harsh until I took them out and replaced with stock. Now getting the correct spring rate becomes complicated. My weight changed, the unsprung and sprung weight of the bike changed. The "window" for racetech is too narrow. I will be going to progressives in the future.
Forestdaledave
 
I have discovered a design problem with racetech springs. I brought a set. Then over a couple of years I lost some weight and the bike lost some weight. The spring action of the forks became increasingly harsh until I took them out and replaced with stock. Now getting the correct spring rate becomes complicated. My weight changed, the unsprung and sprung weight of the bike changed. The "window" for racetech is too narrow. I will be going to progressives in the future.
Forestdaledave

+1 On the progressive's, I like mine. They allow a little soft travel then firm up quick. A good combo for me. I can't speak for Racetech, but anything has to be better than stock.
Dave? Is it a low burrito diet? The Yellow blur must really scream now. Like we always said, loose weight and you'll go faster. The bike loosing weight is cool too.
 
I have discovered a design problem with racetech springs. I brought a set. Then over a couple of years I lost some weight and the bike lost some weight. The spring action of the forks became increasingly harsh until I took them out and replaced with stock. Now getting the correct spring rate becomes complicated. My weight changed, the unsprung and sprung weight of the bike changed. The "window" for racetech is too narrow. I will be going to progressives in the future.
Forestdaledave

What are your static and free sag numbers? Where is the travel becoming harsh?

In my limited experience with damping rod forks, harshness is more a function of oil weight/level than spring rate, with a straight rate spring. Mind you, even a straight rate spring in a fork will net a progressive rate suspension due to increasing air pressure through the range of travel.

Now with a truly progressive spring such as OEM; all bets are off. The spring and the pressure gain within the fork tube create an increasingly progressive (and sometimes plush) suspension. While sought after in cruiser type motorcycles, it's hard to get them to perform on the cutting edge. For this reason, Race Tech offers a straight rate spring and recommend going with no air preload. I'm somewhere in the middle. I'd like a heavier, straight rate spring with a set oil level, and mechanical preload adjustment. But I would go about 25% less on spring rate with this option over the stiffness suggested by Race Tech.
 
I have discovered a design problem with racetech springs. I brought a set. Then over a couple of years I lost some weight and the bike lost some weight. The spring action of the forks became increasingly harsh until I took them out and replaced with stock. Now getting the correct spring rate becomes complicated. My weight changed, the unsprung and sprung weight of the bike changed. The "window" for racetech is too narrow. I will be going to progressives in the future.
Forestdaledave

How did it handle before you and the bike " lost weight " ?

IMHO , it's not so much a design flaw. While researching Racetech's springs , I was advised by those who ran 'em , to tell the technician you weighed about 15-20 lbs less than you actually weighed , as they are set up to be on the race / stiff side . ( Note the name of the Co. ) Aftermarket springs tend to be stiffer than stock in order to upgrade your suspension , ( which is usually set up for comfort , softer spring & shocks ) , handle the turns and heavy braking and acceleration that the average street bike might never experience. . The springs were set up for the weight of you and the chubby Max. Both of you lost weight . The springs didn't change . Race bike riders are very tuned into their rides and a few pounds here or there can make a big difference , especially if a heavy bike goes on a diet too. :rofl_200:

What weight fork oil did you put in ? Did you install their gold emulators as well ?
 
+1 On the progressive's, I like mine. They allow a little soft travel then firm up quick. A good combo for me. I can't speak for Racetech, but anything has to be better than stock.
Dave? Is it a low burrito diet? The Yellow blur must really scream now. Like we always said, loose weight and you'll go faster. The bike loosing weight is cool too.

Steve, its' going to the gym everyday plus the addition of the Carrozzia rims. Very low fat burrito. Actually grasshopper. Not too much fat on those critters. Crunchy though. Dropped oil wt. 5 wt in forks and backed off one click on the emulators. Even Gainy agreed the front was too harsh. What was I to do keep spending $100 or so every time the weight changed. Those racetech springs I had was huge compared to OEM.. If I tried to sell them online I could only sell them to someone of my own weight. Racetech advantage is also it's disadvantage. As one person said great for riding on the cutting edge. On the street? I'm too old and hopefully too wise for that shit. Although the front came up the other day at 70 when I shifted to third.
forestdaledave
 
Steve, its' going to the gym everyday plus the addition of the Carrozzia rims. Very low fat burrito. Actually grasshopper. Not too much fat on those critters. Crunchy though. Dropped oil wt. 5 wt in forks and backed off one click on the emulators. Even Gainy agreed the front was too harsh. What was I to do keep spending $100 or so every time the weight changed. Those racetech springs I had was huge compared to OEM.. If I tried to sell them online I could only sell them to someone of my own weight. Racetech advantage is also it's disadvantage. As one person said great for riding on the cutting edge. On the street? I'm too old and hopefully too wise for that shit. Although the front came up the other day at 70 when I shifted to third.
forestdaledave


You could list those springs here and use the $ towards a less weight / kg version . Which ones did you get and how heavy were you when you bought 'em ?
Congrats on the Carrs ( so $ 100 is not a major issue :rofl_200: ) and the front wheel thingy at 70 ( so not too old for that either :rofl_200: ) . :clapping::clapping::clapping:
 
You could list those springs here and use the $ towards a less weight / kg version . Which ones did you get and how heavy were you when you bought 'em ?
Congrats on the Carrs ( so $ 100 is not a major issue :rofl_200: ) and the front wheel thingy at 70 ( so not too old for that either :rofl_200: ) . :clapping::clapping::clapping:
Would you believe the front wheel thingy was accidental? :confused2:

forestdaledave
 

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