Clutch ball bearing removal?

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Hi gamorg02!

Not in any detail.
Sean did say it would be easier to split swingarm and final drive and fit them one at a time, but that it is possible to fit complete swingarm together with the final drive onto the middle gear u-joint spline.

I opted not to split, and it went in quite easily.


Cheers
Angelo
 
ah okay. yea i alwasy split them as i need to take off my final drive to fit my rear tire (190 size) in there.

assuming you don't have to do that (because your tire can come in and out without the final drive), you will want to mount eveyrthing up loosely minus the tire. put the axle through and let the axle align the final drive on the swingarm and then fully tightn down the nuts connecting the two.

hopefully that makes sense?
 
Yes, stock wheel/tyre sizes made it quite easy for me.

BTW all, a quick home made tool that helped to hold the clutch basket when removing and torquing it.
I've heard of guys using a screwdriver wedged between the "ears" of the basket and breaking them off, and wanted to avoid this.

See the two picture below. I have a spray can in one of them so that you can see the size.

I had the pipe socket, but its very cheap to buy from the local hardware store.

Its a big pipe socket that plumbers use.
I used a small grinder to cut a slot into each of the flat sides of the hexagonal.
The flats fitted perfectly accross the fins on the inside of the clutch cage with the fins going into the cut slots.

I used a long bar thru the existing round hole of the socket to hold the basket steady, and it allowed enough space for the extension to come thru from the nut to the wrench.
Hope my description makes sense. It only took me a few minutes to make and it did work without any damage being caused.

Cheers
Angelo
 

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I use an air impact and never need the tool (though I have one).
 
i have a $15 motion pro one. figured i'd use it for other bikes too
 
Hey, saved myself $15 :clapping: Lol
Not really, I was just stuck on a Sunday evening and was able to continue working by using crap lying in my garage.

Anybody want to buy a custom, one-of-kind 1994 VMAX Stage 7 clutch holding tool? Only been used once.

$14.99 plus postage. I'm also willing to swap for a Motion Pro 1. Lol


Angelo
 
Quick update all:-

Started her up :eusa_dance: and had a bit of a coolant leak :oops: from thick hose bottom of radiator.
Luckily all that was required was a bit of repositioning and tightening of the clamp and a bit of mopping up.

I'm hesitant to pop the champagne (beer) yet. Temperature guage did not move so before I do any damage by overheating without realising it, I stopped the motor until I can confirm and fix the problem with the guage.
I'm assuming there is a problem and that I did let her run long enough??

Any rule of thumb on how long she should run before the needle starts to move?
(wheather is warm at about 24c)

I'm guessing connections as guage was working before, but have not seen any obvious problems with the connectors, earth or wiring.:confused2:

Will pick up again on Sunday and also check that the fan kicks in, and then hopefully go for a decent test ride (if I still remember how to)

Here's holding thumbs.


Cheers
Angelo
 
Any rule of thumb on how long she should run before the needle starts to move?
(wheather is warm at about 24c)

I know that If I start up, I see temp gauge movement within 5 mins. It is slow at first and with in 15 to 20 it will climb up to 1/4 to 1/2 on the gauge. With in 30 mins I will be near 3/4 gauge. The I hop on and start to cooling it off. If I hold the fuel to it, the temp jumps faster.
 
Sounds good! Little water leaks happen.

I don't know how long the water takes to start to heat up. 10 mins maybe at idle!
The gauge won't go up properly until the thermostat opens.

There is 2 temperature sensors under the radiator cap. The one with 1 wire is for the gauge. If you pull the wire off the switch and touch it to earth with the ignition on the gauge will read 100%.

That alloy housing will get to 100'C at roughly half way on the gauge, but probably won't move before 60'C. (That's just a guide so you can tell by touch, not actually accurate.)

It gets bloody hot!
 
mine takes a few mins as well. maybe try a heat gun near the thermostat to see if it'll manually increase?
 
Temp. guage is working.
Bike sounds good and have planned a test run for this weekend.

Hold thumbs I'll be able to ride daily as from Monday.
This will be just in time as work is re-locating me from a suburb to the Johannesburg city centre and its daily traffic jams.

Cheers
Angelo
 
Hold thumbs I'll be able to ride daily as from Monday.
This will be just in time as work is re-locating me from a suburb to the Johannesburg city centre and its daily traffic jams.

Cheers
Angelo

:clapping::punk::eusa_dance: Well done Angelo, you just got your lesson in rebuilding your V-Max. Hard lesson but well worth the outcome.
Shame we do not have an award for 'I DID IT'
Well since you got everything back up and running, I am betting the smile on your face is ear to ear. :biglaugh:
Glad you was able to get it done in time for your daily run with the Cage's.
 
Yes :eusa_dance:

Thanks guys.
It hasn't been easy and did take a bit longer fitting a few weekend hours here and there and a few late nights.

"I did it". The "I" in this case means myself and the hundreds of hours VMAX experience that this forum afforded me.

THANK YOU!

I will be posting a photo of the completed bike tomorrow.

New question which I should be posting somewhere else. I'll check and re=post, but here is for you guys that have been following and helping on this thread.

A bit of a front end "wobble" I'm experiencing when slowing down.
It happens somewhere around 25m/h.
It must be of some incorrect torquing, engine mounts, rear axle, swingarm, ???, etc.
I didnt touch the front end
I havn't got round to troubleshooting other than checking tyre pressure.



Thanks
Angelo
 
Hi

Before someone tells me to RTF(F)orum, I have and will be doing the bounce test and checking steering, although I don't remember a wobble from before the re-build nor did I touch the front end.

Maybe I didn't try and test with a "look ma no hands" prior to the rebuild like I did now on my test run, and have been living with this problem all along.

A couple of pics below of the completed VMAX. Unfortunatly, couldn't show the "wobble". Lol.


-Angelo
 

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Nice looking Vmax Angelo! Good to hear you are back on the road after a rebuild.
So you have found a wobble, or maybe I should say "the infamous wooble" after your rebuild. If you notice it when your decelerating form around 50 to 40 mph it should be just a matter of properly tightening the steering head bearings. This adjustment may take a couple attempts with test rides in between; too tight you'll find it will be hard to keep in a straight line whereas too loose it will bounce off the steering stops when doing the bounce test. Take your wrenchs along and make very small adjustments on the roadside until it is right.
It could be you tire air pressures too, so double check those as well.
Good luck with your adjustments and let us know how it went.
 
Did the bounce test and had to tighten steering washer by +-90 degrees !!
I can only recommend that anyone who hasn't checked in a while do this a.s.a.p.
Very simple and quick to follow "The bounce test" instructions.

Wobble is gone :eusa_dance: and I have a much improved steering feel.


Cheers
Angelo
 
Yes, going for the big and powerful look. Lol

Long story short, had to replace my "tiny" plate with a legal plate for a re-licencing process I needed to go thru and subsequently lost my original.

The shop only had this size blank at the time and I havn't followed up since.

Thanks for "waking me up" as I had become used to the look :biglaugh:

Performance wise its not too bad. Aerodynamics have suffered but you should see me go with a tail wind :rofl_200:


Cheers
Angelo
 
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