dampner rod removal

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alan97max

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Any help!! I have a 93 that im replacing the fork seals, im following morleys
video on the tear down, and im now stuck at the dampner removal.. I do not have the tool to fit inside so im looking for suggestions and any idea on the size inside the fork tube. ie the dampner size..:confused2: Thanks
 
I have seen maybe 1-1/4 or 1-5/16 not sure if this fits..
what does this cross to for metric?
 
The socket is 29mm. Earlier forks have 24mm.

If you don't have the tool then talk nicely to your local garage - using an air wrench should get 'em our. But do take the springs out first!
 
Have u tried putting the spring on with the spacer and cap and compressing it as hard as u can?

Also a broom stick may help!
 
Have u tried putting the spring on with the spacer and cap and compressing it as hard as u can?

Also a broom stick may help!

+1, when tearing down the forks I loosed this allen bolt right after rmove the axle and wheel.
 
I have a loaner removal tool I made for my '99.....not 100% sure it will fit a '93 but you are welcome to try it if you want.
 
I had great luck with just using a breaker bar. I had a hex key to fit the bolt, put the hex key in a a socket, and put the socket on a breaker bar. I let the air out of the forks first, then cracked the damper rod bolt loose with the breaker bar. Worked like a charm. This was after my impact wrench wouldn't loosen it on one of the legs. Impact worked good on one but wouldn't crack the other one loose. Probably cause I have a shitty compressor.
 
just use a good air gun and hit it with a few shots and it should lossen off the bolt and no need to hold it from the inside, worked for me every time.
 
well I got the 3ft treaded rod 4 nuts locked 2 nuts on each end , held the damper hit the air gun all done.. cost me $12 at ACE hardware now I can replace my seals oil springs each season!! If I had to. I will get a pic of it with sizes tuesday.:punk:
 
well I got the 3ft treaded rod 4 nuts locked 2 nuts on each end , held the damper hit the air gun all done.. cost me $12 at ACE hardware now I can replace my seals oil springs each season!! If I had to. I will get a pic of it with sizes tuesday.:punk:

just be glad you didn't have an '03 or up. theres no way to really hold the damper rod!
 
just be glad you didn't have an '03 or up. theres no way to really hold the damper rod!

Need a broomstick sharpened like a pencil, some 3M 2 sided sticky tape and......:eusa_pray:

I wonder why Yamo went to that design.....don't even think there's a special Yamo tool to fit it......Puzzleing. :ummm:
 
Need a broomstick sharpened like a pencil, some 3M 2 sided sticky tape and......:eusa_pray:

I wonder why Yamo went to that design.....don't even think there's a special Yamo tool to fit it......Puzzleing. :ummm:

i think there is, but i'm not sure how it holds it....

either way it's probably half the cost of an '09 :rofl_200:

yea, compressing the spring once you drain the oil with help from a buddy usually provides enough friction. same for re-assembly. i was able to torque it down to spec with i think someone helping out.
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that I had no major issues removing the damper rods from my '04. I simply deflated the stanchions and left the forks fully assembled in the trees. Following Morley's daughter's lead, I attacked the bolts with an impact gun. vvvvvt vvvvt. done.

And yes the top of my damper rods have absolutely no means for a hex-shaped, star-shaped, any-shaped tool to grab a hold of--completely round like a bowl.

Reassembly proved to be more tedious. Using a broomstick proved fruitless, so after doing what I needed to do with the damper rods, I placed them back in the fork assembly along with my springs, spacers, washers, etc, but NO oil, and closed the top. Put the fork leg back in tree and torqued down the damper rod bolt, removed the fork leg, disassembled it, filled it up with oil, reinserted the the inner components and closed her up.
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that I had no major issues removing the damper rods from my '04. I simply deflated the stanchions and left the forks fully assembled in the trees. Following Morley's daughter's lead, I attacked the bolts with an impact gun. vvvvvt vvvvt. done.

And yes the top of my damper rods have absolutely no means for a hex-shaped, star-shaped, any-shaped tool to grab a hold of--completely round like a bowl.

Reassembly proved to be more tedious. Using a broomstick proved fruitless, so after doing what I needed to do with the damper rods, I placed them back in the fork assembly along with my springs, spacers, washers, etc, but NO oil, and closed the top. Put the fork leg back in tree and torqued down the damper rod bolt, removed the fork leg, disassembled it, filled it up with oil, reinserted the the inner components and closed her up.

Glad you got it done Ninj....I learned 2 things from this post....

1) not sure when Yamerhooler started the round topped damper rod but it was AT LEAST '04....and

2) one side came out easier for him than the other! :biglaugh:
 
Glad you got it done Ninj....I learned 2 things from this post....

1) not sure when Yamerhooler started the round topped damper rod but it was AT LEAST '04....and

2) one side came out easier for him than the other! :biglaugh:

i heard mid-'03. mine has the stupid one.
 
Good to know, thanks. Very curious why Yamaha went to that design, especially 4 years before the end of the production run....it cost tons of money and I can't see any mechanical or operational advantage. :confused2:
 
i bet another bike used the same one danny so they just 'discontinued' the 'old style'.
 
Yeah I learned quickly that just the end of a broomstick pressing down on the dampening rod will hold it in place. No carving the broomstick. Did my progressive lowering kit with intimidators last spring and love it all!!!
 
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