exhaust popping and no power at low speeds

[terrywilliams]

Have had no issues with my baby, but it has set up for a couple of months and not rode. I cranked it up yesterday and noted that I had to keep the choke slightly on or it would die. When I revved the throttle it wanted to die, but when I rode it at mid rpms there was no issues. Only when I stopped did I have an issue with it trying to die. I rode it back home and let it sit and idle. I noted that the right side exhaust was popping slightly, but the engine sounded fine other than that. What might the issue be? I just bought new plugs and will install them tomorrow and put higher octane gas in it. The carbs don't appear to be out of sync.. help!!

 

[davidon]

Clogged pilot fuel jets..take apart and clean

 

[RagingMain]

Have had no issues with my baby, but it has set up for a couple of months and not rode. I cranked it up yesterday and noted that I had to keep the choke slightly on or it would die. When I revved the throttle it wanted to die, but when I rode it at mid rpms there was no issues. Only when I stopped did I have an issue with it trying to die. I rode it back home and let it sit and idle. I noted that the right side exhaust was popping slightly, but the engine sounded fine other than that. What might the issue be? I just bought new plugs and will install them tomorrow and put higher octane gas in it. The carbs don't appear to be out of sync.. help!!

Unless you are having knocking issues you dont need higher octane gas in the Max. You will actually lose power and build up carbon.

I have a high compression, advanced timing setup and the bike runs best on good old 87 octane.

And unless you have a sync tool to tell you exactly what your vacuum is reading there is no way of telling whether or not they are in sync.

 

[naughtyG]

Sounds like your best bet is to do the shotgun.

All US gas has at least 10% ethanol in it, and when you let the bike sit the ethanol absorbs water, which makes it run like shite. Also when sitting, your pilot jets get clogged up, and the shotgun is the best way to clear those short of taking the carbs apart to clean.

Whenever your bike's going to sit for any length of time, do yourself a favor and put a little SeaFoam in your tank, and also drain your carb fuel bowls both by letting the bike run 'til it dies with the fuel pump disconnected, and actually draining the bowls with the drain screws.

This way any number of months later, just put fresh gas into it and it'll start up and run great. Also stick to 87 grade fuel - that's the one Max likes best because it's the most appropriate for its engine's compression ratio.

 

[dannymax]

+1....shotgun

 

[95spfldmax]

Whenever your bike's going to sit for any length of time, do yourself a favor and put a little SeaFoam in your tank, and also drain your carb fuel bowls both by letting the bike run 'til it dies with the fuel pump disconnected, and actually draining the bowls with the drain screws.

This way any number of months later, just put fresh gas into it and it'll start up and run great.

Not to hijack the thread but.....

I usually top the tank and seafoam for winter. I start the bike randomly throughout winter 2-3 times. Only sits 4 months maybe anyways. But this fuel is getting crappier by the day!! I'm thinking of seafoaming and draining system also. The above seems to imply leaving tank full but draining carbs only. My question is, how would you "lube" up the empty fuel tank to keep surface rust away? WD-40 with a long neck?? LOL.......Do any of you guys oil up your tanks in the off-season?? If so, how?

 

[MaxMidnight]

Mike

The best way to protect the tank if to keep it full of fuel - that will stop any condensation forming which eventually will cause corrosion. By all means add fuel stabiliser.

I would also suggest that one it is holed up for the winter that all you need to do is plug the exhaust and possibly the air intakes. This is also to prevent cold moist air getting into the motor which could introduce condensation.

There is absolutely no benefit in 'warming' an engine up.
Maximum wear is when an engine is first started and it isn't until it is fully hot that everything seals properly.
During the initial running period you will get more water and other nasty liquids which are a by product of the combustion process condense within the motor and exhaust.
When the motor is fully hot these will boil off and not cause any issues but can if everything isn't up to operating temperature.
This takes about ten miles on the road to achieve.

 

[Chilly]

Clogged jet or stuck float ,fuel pump is possibly going .
all of these will Cause lean mix .
popping usually alwase means lean mix .
90% of the time In my expieriance .

 

[RaWarrior]

Why do you say there is "no benefit" to letting the motor warm up? Thought that was pretty much universally accepted engine "etiquette"....you never flog a cold motor.

My understanding(which could be totally off, but it makes sense) was that suddenly getting on a cold motor can cause it to warm up too quickly, and unevenly. Namely the pistons will expand from heat faster than the block does, which causes a lot more friction and more wear for a time until the rest of the motor "catches up" with heat. Letting the motor run for a minute or two at fast idle, no load lets it warm gradually and evenly.

I've always let things warm up especially in cold weather. Let my truck idle for at least a minute or so before driving. My f150 won't lock the torque converter or engage 4th gear until it warms up the trans oil(which is normal).

A lot of 2 stroke motors will run like poo-poo until they warm up. They'll run with the choke on, but if you attempt to rev them up, or put any load, they die instantly. Have absolutely zero power. Like a minute later, they run perfectly. A lot of snowmobiles are like that, I've never quite figured out why that is. Heard a million explanations for it, but none agree so I have to assume they're all speculation.

Where's the Morley bat-signal?

 

[95spfldmax]

Mike

The best way to protect the tank if to keep it full of fuel - that will stop any condensation forming which eventually will cause corrosion. By all means add fuel stabiliser.

There is absolutely no benefit in 'warming' an engine up.
Maximum wear is when an engine is first started and it isn't until it is fully hot that everything seals properly.
During the initial running period you will get more water and other nasty liquids which are a by product of the combustion process condense within the motor and exhaust.
When the motor is fully hot these will boil off and not cause any issues but can if everything isn't up to operating temperature.
This takes about ten miles on the road to achieve.

I agree with most of your points for sure. Only starting motor to "move" some fuel. The ethanol "thickens up" pretty quickly so i've read........

 

[95spfldmax]

Have had no issues with my baby, but it has set up for a couple of months and not rode. I cranked it up yesterday and noted that I had to keep the choke slightly on or it would die. When I revved the throttle it wanted to die, but when I rode it at mid rpms there was no issues. Only when I stopped did I have an issue with it trying to die. I rode it back home and let it sit and idle. I noted that the right side exhaust was popping slightly, but the engine sounded fine other than that. What might the issue be? I just bought new plugs and will install them tomorrow and put higher octane gas in it. The carbs don't appear to be out of sync.. help!!

Do you have any progress to report??

 

[terrywilliams]

Thanks for the great advice folks. Been out of town most of the week, but will try to put your advice to use... will let you know how it fairs!!!

 

[terrywilliams]

folks.. put a few ounces of Seafoam in the tank yesterday and let idle for 15-20 minutes. Rode it like a bat out of He-- for a few miles, and it now runs like new... cleared up the carb problem like a champ!! Thanks everyone and I'll start using this magic product on all my bike and car engines... thanks again!!