Help with fork seals

[billydroveit]

I know there is alot odiscussion on these here, but i have to ask. How much does it usually cost to rebuild, and can anyone do it? Is there a downloadable I can get that will walk me through it?

THanks guys, you've been a monumental help for my new bike purchase so far!

 

[dannymax]

Check with V-Max Outlaw, they have a downloadable Service Manual that covers everything. That and a Clymer or Haynes manual and you'll have everything you need.

http://vmaxoutlaw.com/main.html

Click on V Max Tech & Info...think it's the second one down.

I don't remember the cost, but if you are only doing oil & dust seals it isn't very much. It's well worth the extra $'s to do progressive springs at the same time tho.
The job isn't all that difficult, most can handle it, no problem.

danny

 

[tugla]

for sure man you can do it. I tackled mine a few years back and was a breeze. Like dannnymax said check out vmaxoutlaw site will be helpful for sure.

when you are taking the forks apart if you use a good impact on the bottom allen bolt you will not need to get the yamy tool to hold it from the inside.

not sure what they charge to do the work for you but im sure its way more then you need to spend.

 

[4gasem]

All the info you need is here. The VMF links button and the FAQ button are your friend.

I've done several sets of forks and never had any issues. I always buy the fork seal driver though. I like having the right tools for the job. Makes life easier IMO.

An impact gun is your friend though. I have an electric one that I use around the house and LOVE.

Chris

 

[gamorg02]

I would def recommend a haynes or clymer to supplement (i like haynes better) the service manual as the service manual assumes certain knowledge, which sometimes isn't obvious.

Whats a typical shopping list?
2 x part 16
2 x part 6
2 x part 4
2 x part 3

plus oil and springs?


now, if you use a tie down and put pressure on the fork (compress them) it makes removing that bottom drain/damper holder bolt easier eh? as the pressure is holding it?

i've heard PVC tubing works well for a driver, Chris, where'd u get the tool, and do u have a p/n? whats it look like?

 

[4gasem]

Just do a search on google or eBay for fork seal driver 41mm.

Many to chose from.

 

[one2dmax]

Yep, we still use the good old fashioned PVC tubing. Works quite well.

Sean

 

[billydroveit]

All the info you need is here. The VMF links button and the FAQ button are your friend.

I've done several sets of forks and never had any issues. I always buy the fork seal driver though. I like having the right tools for the job. Makes life easier IMO.

An impact gun is your friend though. I have an electric one that I use around the house and LOVE.

Chris

Ok impacts i have, how long does the seal driver need to be?

I am only replacing what is necisarry, as this bike is going to get sold as soon as i'm done. I rode it lastnight, and th right fork has oil coming out the top. So what seals are needed just to keep the oil where it belongs, and ensure it's safely done and rideable? Does going to a heavier oil help the front end wobble? Am I going to need a lift? or can this be done on teh center stand?

You gyus are the greatest, please keep the info coming.unk:

 

[4gasem]

Seal driver can be a foot long or so if made out of PVC to give you a something to hold on to to force them in. An actual fork seal driver is usually VERY heavy so they are short as well. Maybe 6 inches long max.

I use the center stand and some ratchet straps over the rafters in the garage and down to the bike but you can use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan as well.

You'll need the fork seal for it. You can order from any Yamaha shop but Mondak motors (vmf links) is the cheapest. No the wobble comes from head bearings that aren't tightened correctly or are bad. Heavier oil 15wt offers an improved feel though and I would recommend it.

Chris

 

[naughtyG]

No the wobble comes from head bearings that aren't tightened correctly or are bad.

+1000 on that. While your forks are off check out how smoothly yer steering bearings feel when moving the triple trees from side to side. Any roughness whatsover = replace.

Heavier oil 15wt offers an improved feel though and I would recommend it.

Chris

I used 15W oil (with progressive springs) and felt it only help very little. OTOH I have no clue what oil was in to start with, so I may just have replaced 15 with 15 which would have explained the lack of difference.

Going with the Ricor Intimators and 5W oil made a huge difference though - I like that MUCH better.

 

[billydroveit]

Seal driver can be a foot long or so if made out of PVC to give you a something to hold on to to force them in. An actual fork seal driver is usually VERY heavy so they are short as well. Maybe 6 inches long max.

I use the center stand and some ratchet straps over the rafters in the garage and down to the bike but you can use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan as well.

You'll need the fork seal for it. You can order from any Yamaha shop but Mondak motors (vmf links) is the cheapest. No the wobble comes from head bearings that aren't tightened correctly or are bad. Heavier oil 15wt offers an improved feel though and I would recommend it.

Chris

So do they sell these in a kit i just ask for? I think i have a seal driver that will work. Whil i'm there i'm going to do the furber fix as well. Is there any tricks to this job(fork seals), or does the haynes/clymer do a pretty good job outlining the procedure. I know somone said one is better than the other, but i know there's tricks to just about everything!?

 

[4gasem]

Did you check out the FAQ's? There is a pretty good step by step. Really no tricks.

Put a dab of blue loctite on the bottom screw before inserting it.

I like to tape the top of the fork with electrical tape so I don't cut the seal before installing. Just a little bur will ruin a seal.

Chria

 

[billydroveit]

Did you check out the FAQ's? There is a pretty good step by step. Really no tricks.

Put a dab of blue loctite on the bottom screw before inserting it.

I like to tape the top of the fork with electrical tape so I don't cut the seal before installing. Just a little bur will ruin a seal.

Chria

OK i'll look in FAQ's

Put the tape on then slide the seal over it to avoid the cut/burr?

Thanks guys this is most helpful

 

[dannymax]

Check pages 35 - 43 of the service manual....they do a pretty good job of covering this.

 

[billydroveit]

I'm suprised someone hasn't loaded the Hynes/clymer manual yet so we can all share it's benifit.

 

[gamorg02]

for $15 or $20 whatever it is, it would take a while to scan everything. the factory manual i think is like $120.

 

[naughtyG]

very true Garrett.. I think I'm gonna get the Haynes at some point, the Yamaha SM makes too many assumptions and leaves a helluva load of details out.

 

[billydroveit]

for $15 or $20 whatever it is, it would take a while to scan everything. the factory manual i think is like $120.

But they come inCD form right? I just figured because they do for cars. I thought i read somewhere one of the forums had the downloadable on their site, but i cannot find it.

 

[billydroveit]

for $15 or $20 whatever it is, it would take a while to scan everything. the factory manual i think is like $120.

Local dealer here wanted 35 for haynes.

 

[naughtyG]

I'd rather have the paper myself for when I'm working on the bike all greasy!

I've seen them go for $20-25 at autoparts stores, I guess online you can get good deals too but then u have to add shipping costs..