How to puch back brake pistons??

[madmax06]

I decided to change brakes on my bike, but the problem is, brake pistons wont allow any room for the new ebc HH pads...

So how would i push them back? Im talking about front brake

 

[GREEN light BLITZ]

use a small C clamp,slowly tighten it down until the pistons are all the way in

 

[richwrench]

+1 - I always use a C-clamp or a flat blade screwdriver between the piston & inner pad. Don't rush it - slow & steady 'till it bottoms out.

 

[gamorg02]

i push them out a bit first with the pedal. clean everything good, then push them back in by hand. just did it last night to fit my new pads.

now i've done about 75 miles, and i went from EBC HH to EBC FA(organic pads, #FA88) as per seans recommendation because my HH were squealing. went thru 2 rotors and 2 sets of pads (EBC and Galfer), and so far it looks like the organic pads solved the problem. fingers crossed. so before u use 'em, maybe sell 'em to someone with pre-93 front brakes and get some organic pads for the rear.

 

[tfisher65]

Watch the fluid level in the reservoir. You could overflow it when pushing the pistons back then you'll have corrosive brake fluid all over the place. Just a heads up.

 

[gamorg02]

excellent point

 

[madmax06]

thanx for advice guys, but in the mean time i took off the caliper and actually used pliers to push them back in.... so thats done...

Only one small problem.... Stupidly out of curiosity i unscrewed the front brake bleed valve... :bang head:
So i got some air in my front brake now and brake feels very soft and dangerous to use... I was wondering what would i do to get the air out?? Or fix the situation?

 

[madmax06]

new brake pads are installed by the way... turns out, i was rolling on 13K miles original brakes...

 

[richwrench]

While applying pressure to the brake lever with one hand, crack the bleeder screw open slightly with the other. Do this several times until nothing but clear fluid with no bubbles is all that you get. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master - if it gets too low you will just induce more air into the system. You will fell the lever getting higher & firmer as you do this.

 

[madmax06]

yup, did exactly as you said. Now as i apply the brake, pressing about 1/2 way it feels firm...

One more question by the way, Are the brakes suppose to be lightly rubbing against the rotor itself while not applied? Because right now and before they did...

 

[naughtyG]

the pads will always be close to the rotors, almost rubbing, but if your breaking system is in good order the wheel should rotate freely when the brakes are not applied.

If the wheel isn't free, the brakes are binding, will overheat both pads and rotors, will wear prematurely, and will make your mpg really bad.

99% of the time it's because there's dirt between the pistons and the caliper surface they fit in, often because the seals have perished. You can rebuild them with new seals, or replace the calipers - talk to Sean Morley about an exchange for a better price..

 

[madmax06]

the pads will always be close to the rotors, almost rubbing, but if your breaking system is in good order the wheel should rotate freely when the brakes are not applied.

If the wheel isn't free, the brakes are binding, will overheat both pads and rotors, will wear prematurely, and will make your mpg really bad.

99% of the time it's because there's dirt between the pistons and the caliper surface they fit in, often because the seals have perished. You can rebuild them with new seals, or replace the calipers - talk to Sean Morley about an exchange for a better price..

mine are rubbing and i can hear them rubbing... hissing sound

what do you recommend???

 

[naughtyG]

mine are rubbing and i can hear them rubbing... hissing sound

what do you recommend???

First ride it about 100 miles, to make sure the new pads are bedded in. Often this will improve things greatly.

After that and if your wheel isn't moving freely, you need to fix your caliper(s). I would first remove one at a time to make sure they both rub - not just one of them.

Easiest start is to get one at a time off, remove pads, put a c-clamp on one piston, then pull brake lever to push out the other one as far as you can without it popping out (carefully). Then clean the outside surface of the piston as well as possible using brake cleaner and maybe cotton tips or similar and compressed air. Then push the piston back in with another c-clamp, leave this one on, remove the other c-clamp and repeat cleaning operation on the second piston. Then push it all the way back in, refit pads and caliper and see if that helps. If good then you're done for now. If not you'll need to get new seals and replace them, or as mentioned b4, talk to Sean Morley as you may be able to get an exchange from him for a decent price and not have to do the work yourself.

IMPORTANT - if you're going to do this, make sure to keep a close eye on the fluid level in the M/C reservoir!! if it goes too low you will get air in the system. If it goes to high it will spill and eats paintwork and most finishes for breakfast! Always a good idea to protect all parts below the M/C and have plenty of brake fluid to top up and a syringe to suck it out as needed.

Hope this helps..

 

[madmax06]

First ride it about 100 miles, to make sure the new pads are bedded in. Often this will improve things greatly.

After that and if your wheel isn't moving freely, you need to fix your caliper(s). I would first remove one at a time to make sure they both rub - not just one of them.

Easiest start is to get one at a time off, remove pads, put a c-clamp on one piston, then pull brake lever to push out the other one as far as you can without it popping out (carefully). Then clean the outside surface of the piston as well as possible using brake cleaner and maybe cotton tips or similar and compressed air. Then push the piston back in with another c-clamp, leave this one on, remove the other c-clamp and repeat cleaning operation on the second piston. Then push it all the way back in, refit pads and caliper and see if that helps. If good then you're done for now. If not you'll need to get new seals and replace them, or as mentioned b4, talk to Sean Morley as you may be able to get an exchange from him for a decent price and not have to do the work yourself.

IMPORTANT - if you're going to do this, make sure to keep a close eye on the fluid level in the M/C reservoir!! if it goes too low you will get air in the system. If it goes to high it will spill and eats paintwork and most finishes for breakfast! Always a good idea to protect all parts below the M/C and have plenty of brake fluid to top up and a syringe to suck it out as needed.

Hope this helps..

thanx man, i will follow your advice

By the way, performance wise, does Sean sell only stage 7 kits???
Im thinking about increasing some power in the max...

 

[gamorg02]

mine have always made slight noises. as long as they're not causing any friction i've heard its somewhat normal.

 

[KJShover]

does Sean sell only stage 7 kits???
Im thinking about increasing some power in the max...

Sean sells the dynojet kits as well as his own custom kit. The morley muscle kit has great reviews and power gains. Several show more gain over the stage 7.

Come mid January, I'm getting the Morley muscle kit myself.