Leaky fork seal replacement question

[dannymax]

Got a leaking fork seal that needs replaced. Going to do both sides, naturally. Then, after checking all the posts I could find on the forum, I also decided to install progressive springs while I'm there.

I ordered stock dust seals, oil seals and copper gaskets for the bottom hex bolts. And progressive springs and Silkolene 15wt fork oil (2- 20 oz. bottles)

My question is: Do I have everything I need to get this done? :ummm:

Hate like hell to get part way done and have to hold everything up for a some pieces. :bang head:

Thanks in advance,

dan

 

[turbostang]

Sounds like it, assuming you have the right tools.

 

[dannymax]

Sounds like it, assuming you have the right tools.

I don't have a seal driver, going to have to work that one out. Think I can handle everything else.

dan

 

[turbostang]

I did not use a seal driver when I did mine. We just tapped them in evenly around the circumference.

 

[dannymax]

I did not use a seal driver when I did mine. We just tapped them in evenly around the circumference.

Glad to hear that. Just a block of wood with a slot cut for a buffer should take care of that, maybe?

 

[johnny5]

Did you order all parts at one place? I need to order the same parts and was wondering if there was a one stop shopping i could order from?

 

[dannymax]

Did you order all parts at one place? I need to order the same parts and was wondering if there was a one stop shopping i could order from?

No, I got the seals and gaskets at the local Yammie dealer, (everybody here recommends going stock Yamaha with that stuff), and the Silkolene fork oil there too. I got the progressive springs from Motorcycle Accessories Warehouse $72, both sides incl. shipping.

 

[one2dmax]

Sometimes the retaining clip can be badly rusted. You can check it without taking the set of the bike by sliding up the dust seal to check them out. You can also make an excellent driver by using the thin wall pvc pipe and a slip joint adapter. The pipe only side works to drive in the seal and inner slide, then the side with the adapter works well to drive the dust seal into place (they are sometimes snug when new). Get a section about 4' long.

Sean

 

[dannymax]

Sometimes the retaining clip can be badly rusted. You can check it without taking the set of the bike by sliding up the dust seal to check them out. You can also make an excellent driver by using the thin wall pvc pipe and a slip joint adapter. The pipe only side works to drive in the seal and inner slide, then the side with the adapter works well to drive the dust seal into place (they are sometimes snug when new). Get a section about 4' long.

Sean

Sean,
I'll check the retaining clip right now. But I'm not familiar with a "slip joint adapter," what are they?

Oh yeah, like a dresser coupling.
Spring clips look great but I can see how they could easily get rusted. Good argument for cleaning the bugs off the fork tubes.

Thanks
dan

 

[Gally]

I am going through the exact same process....

I have the progressive springs and the seals (part#NL-23145-00) but I didnt pick up any of the other stuff:

"stock dust seals, ....and copper gaskets for the bottom hex bolts"

Should I not start the work without the other parts???

Also, is the center-stand and a couple of straps good enough for stability while I take the wheel off and forks apart? The more I read here the Bigger the job seems to be....not sure if I should handle it on my own....looks like guys end up making a lot of special tools which I am not in a position to do.....:ummm:

 

[dannymax]

I am going through the exact same process....

I have the progressive springs and the seals (part#NL-23145-00) but I didnt pick up any of the other stuff:

"stock dust seals, ....and copper gaskets for the bottom hex bolts"

Should I not start the work without the other parts???

Also, is the center-stand and a couple of straps good enough for stability while I take the wheel off and forks apart? The more I read here the Bigger the job seems to be....not sure if I should handle it on my own....looks like guys end up making a lot of special tools which I am not in a position to do.....:ummm:

Everbody recommends replacing the dust seals at the same time as the rubber becomes brittle and can develop cracks, letting water in.

The copper gaskets are just crush washers (like on the oil drain plug) and go on the bottom allen bolts. Just didn't make sense to me not to replace them, they're about $3 ea., or less.

As for the straps etc. check out this link, it's an excellent tutorial.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/faq.php?faq=vmax_tech_faq_1#faq_front_forks This link won't work, for some reason. [ I fixed the link, it now works -- Buster] Go to "How to & FAQ section, click on "How To Guides" scroll down to "How to disassemble the front forks" Buster did an excellent job of describing, with pics, the process.

Good luck

dan

 

[one2dmax]

I don't actually think I have ever replaced the copper washers but it's not a bad idea. The dust seals aren't horribly expensive to replace but can be re-used too. The areas to look for are on the bottom side where the fluid leaks or water has gotten in. They can rust out from the inside out that way.

Sean

 

[dannymax]

I don't actually think I have ever replaced the copper washers but it's not a bad idea. The dust seals aren't horribly expensive to replace but can be re-used too. The areas to look for are on the bottom side where the fluid leaks or water has gotten in. They can rust out from the inside out that way.

Sean

Thanks for the tips, Sean. I'll clean 'em up good & check that out.

Like Neil Young said, "Rust Never Sleeps!" :biglaugh:

dan

 

[radley]

Hi,

I have a 1985 Vmax. I NEED to put new seals in my front forks, and while I am in there, I would like to do the spring upgrade mentioned in this thread, and put new fork oil in, and the whole shi-bang.

I have the service manual printed off, so I'll be able to take the caliper/front wheel off, never done this before, any tricks or tips?

I'd like to replace the seals and springs and anything else in there that may come with a seal replacement kit. Where do I find the best place to find a fork component replacement kit and what all am I looking for exactly?

Also I have done some research and have found a fork kit, that comes with spacers (?) and some sort of washer (I am assuming goes between the spring and spacer..?). Here is the link http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PROG-FORK&CartID=

Or am I looking for simply this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Progressive...5|Model:Vmax+1200&hash=item2a41ef7c42&vxp=mtr

However, I'd like to replace the fork seals, is this the item?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-VMX-...H_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item232792ee76&vxp=mtr

Also, should I replace other components and where can I find them?
I found this thread with additional informationand posted there as well...:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=407256#post407256

After reading that thread, looks like I should be looking for Progressive Springs, Dust seals, Oil Seals, Copper Gaskets, retaining clip and new oil.
Best places to get all this stuff? (Yamaha parts best or really no diff?)

Sean says use that synthetic power steering fluid in his video, but others going with Silkolene fork oil?

Also, are there advantages to lowering the forks?
I'm not opposed to that notion, what's that good for, advantages, etc?
What about this kit?
How the hell does one piece that together?
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/49594/i/progressive-suspension-fork-lowering-kit

I have watched Sean's Video, but that's not an early 1st gen,....and I'm not sure what size pvc he uses for that homemade tool, or better way..?

I did find this, but it's not for 1985.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fork-Bushin...-97-/271897793266?hash=item3f4e5f12f2&vxp=mtr

LIke I said, i have the manual (printed off in black and white). I'd like to do this whole process myself, and have rebuilt the carbs, so I am up for learning and doing this....

Thnx brothers, please let me know what you think....

-Boo

 

[DMAN999]

Buy OEM Fork Seals, the aftermarket seals tend to leak shortly after being replaced.
Yamaha Part #: 1NL-23145-00-00
Copper crush washers
Yamaha Part #: 2K8-23158-L0-00
Dust Seals
Yamaha Part #: 26H-23144-00-00
Snap Rings (You may or may not need these, depending on what shape yours are in)
Yamaha Part #: 26H-23156-00-00


And it's up to you whether you lower the front end (I would Not lower it more than 1" though), it will improve cornering.
I have a 2000 with the forks slid up 3/4" in the trees (which lowers the front) and I like it that way better than the stock height.
It makes the front end turn in a bit quicker.
The Progressive lowering kit includes instructions.

I used a fork seal driver that fit my forks that I borrowed from a local MC shop.
But a lot of guys have used a piece of PVC pipe cut length wise and opened up enough to fit over the fork tubes.

 

[eggohead]

Buy OEM Fork Seals, the aftermarket seals tend to leak shortly after being replaced.
Yamaha Part #: 1NL-23145-00-00
Copper crush washers
Yamaha Part #: 2K8-23158-L0-00
Dust Seals
Yamaha Part #: 26H-23144-00-00
Snap Rings (You may or may not need these, depending on what shape yours are in)
Yamaha Part #: 26H-23156-00-00


And it's up to you whether you lower the front end (I would Not lower it more than 1" though), it will improve cornering.
I have a 2000 with the forks slid up 3/4" in the trees (which lowers the front) and I like it that way better than the stock height.
It makes the front end turn in a bit quicker.
The Progressive lowering kit includes instructions.

I used a fork seal driver that fit my forks that I borrowed from a local MC shop.
But a lot of guys have used a piece of PVC pipe cut length wise and opened up enough to fit over the fork tubes.

I just did mine on my 90 like a month or 2 ago. I grabbed the PVC pipe( worked like a charm) from Lowes for like 5 buck. I did find my clips had been rusted and I bent them getting them out also. If you have the 85-92 you will have or should have the air collar still on. I had to use a punch and hammer to get mine to come off. If you don't have it you can drop it in the triple tree about an inch. Also if you do there are 2 o-rings in each collar to maybe replace. Depending on how they look. I just ordered new seals and clips for my Blue Bayou, it was pouring out the right fork this weekend. Almost thought I was gonna get to ride it. So I took the 90...lol man it's great to have a back up bike..

 

[HyperPete]

Where is Hutchinson?

I have one remaining piece of PCV pipe used for driving the fork seals (I gave several away a few months back.) It is Schedule 20, and I believe it's 1 1/4" pipe if I recall correctly.

If you will return it after you use it, I will send it to you. Shipping is only a couple of bucks unless I am mistaken.

EDIT: The PVC I have is for the later Gen 1s. It may be too big for your '85.

Cheers!

Pete

 

[wayne z]

I reused my copper gaskets after heating them to a dull red to anneal them. I used a 2ft section of 1 1/4 thick wall PVC to drive the slide bushing with the steel washer in between. Also drove the seal and dust seal with it, no problem. Only problem I had was when I tightened the Allen bolt with my 1/2 impact. When the bolt snugged down, the strong impact made the fork leg spin in my hand and one of the bolt tangs cut my wrist rather badly.

 

[dannymax]

Ouch!! :bang head:

 

[redneksoldier]

I hadn't seen this mentioned on here yet, so I thought I would throw it out there:
On the parts fiche for the '93 and up models, item #44 p/n 4PU-W003B-00-00 is a fork seal kit. Sells for $26.33 from Boats.net. Same OE parts, just cheaper than ordering individual seals. Includes 2 oil and 2 dust seals. I ordered and installed these a couple of weeks ago. I couldn't find any seal kit for the '85-'92 models and the price of those seals is ridiculous. I feel for the guys having to buy those!