LED turn signals

[clintard]

shawn i have the same ones as well and they are cheap as can be, u can make lines in them with your fingernail the metal is so soft. JUNK and i wouldnt buy again. Ive searched the internet far and wide for a set of replacements the same style that are made better and i dont think they exist. I dont like the looks of the stockers or any other aftermarkets ive seen its sad these cant be of better quality

 

[one2dmax]

do the led conversion and chrome them - they look awesome afterwards and no problems with bulbs anymore

 

[shawn kloker]

Dang, took me forever to find the link:

http://cruton.bmg.uab.edu/page_13.htm


Sean Morley

huj

Wonder where you get radiantz strips and how many ohms are the load resistors?


Sean, who's site is that?

 

[maleko89]

Sean, who's site is that?

Gary Spradley's.

 

[shawn kloker]

Gary Spradley, HE HE!

http://www.radiantz.com/

Found the website.Looks like at least $90 without the shipping or load resistors for 6 yellow strips.

 

[Redbone]

My turn signals are brand new, haven't even turned a mile with them yet. I looked them over closely and I see the problems previously mentioned. I can see how the tab would break as it is unsupported. Also the bulb is almost touching the housing and there is no room to move it away from the housing. :hmmm:
I am going to try a snug fitting piece of closed cell foam under the bulb holder hoping to: 1) support the bulb holder and 2) lessen vibration to the holder, tab and bulb. I am also going to add rubber "washers" on the mounting stem.
If this doesn't work (not confident it will) I will go the Gary Spradley route and install LED's. :confused2:
My blinkers we purchased through python motorsports and have a HD aluminum housing (brushed look) that looks like they have CC on them. I don't think they are the same ones Clintard mentioned as they are not soft metal.

 

[one2dmax]

I saw the ones he used for $19 each strip.

Sean

 

[Rusty McNeil]

You only need load resistors if you go to LED's front AND back.

You can buy resistors at radio shack.

You want the rectangular ceramic ones in the highest wattage you can find, which will usually be 10 or 20 watts, they can get hot but it's not a big deal unless you leave drive around all day with the signal on.

I believe I used 2 ohm resistors.

You put one across each left or right signal doesn't matter front or back or where you mount it, you just want to parrallel the led. One on each side. butt splice them into the circuit and then bury the entire resistor in electrical tape so it doesn't corrode the wiring.

The ohm's will set the blink rate; a 1 ohm will make it blink faster than a 2 ohm.

Rusty

 

[Rusty McNeil]

The LED's I use I found at a local independent M/C shop.

They look identical looking to the second one down if you click one the link except they don't have the lens second lens on the backside of the housing. Mine were about the same price as these shown. $30 for two of 'em.

Mine are bright as a mofo....

I'd run without any signals except the front left one before I'd run those ugly ass stock lollipops.

http://www.sportingforless.com/motorcycle-turn-signals-c-56.html

Rusty

 

[shawn kloker]

Here's 2 versions of the same damn cheap ass turn signals that I was bitchin about.Thank god they are only about $12 a set with discount.

I already had these here and had to replace one for inspection.The tab had broken off then the wires broke off the socket.I am still going to do something like an LED conversion to these.

 

[Dezeez]

You only need load resistors if you go to LED's front AND back.

You can buy resistors at radio shack.

You want the rectangular ceramic ones in the highest wattage you can find, which will usually be 10 or 20 watts, they can get hot but it's not a big deal unless you leave drive around all day with the signal on.

I believe I used 2 ohm resistors.

You put one across each left or right signal doesn't matter front or back or where you mount it, you just want to parrallel the led. One on each side. butt splice them into the circuit and then bury the entire resistor in electrical tape so it doesn't corrode the wiring.

The ohm's will set the blink rate; a 1 ohm will make it blink faster than a 2 ohm.

Rusty

Not to say your bike didn't work different than mine but I had to install load resisters even though I only put LED's on the back. Also, the Radio Shack stores around me don't sell high watt resistors anymore, just a few audio grade ones.

I had a difficult time finding resistors at a reasonable price and found this site to be as cheap as buying them from an electronic supply house. http://superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

I bought the cheap EBay turnsignals and I really liked the look so I threw away the sockets, hard wired the LED bulbs and set them in clear silicon caulk to hold them in place inside the housing. The LED's don't get hot so this works out just fine. I have them setup as running lights, too. I also used rubber washers inside and out to absorb some of the vibration.

I put on wire quick connects and bought another pair and mounted them on my butt ugly sissy bar so that I can swap it with the grab rail fairly quickly when the old lady wants to ride.

Better visiblity at night with the running lights but the LED's aren't as bright as the old bulbs so daytime visiblity is down.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

With half led's and half incandescents your turn signals should be working but the blink rate should be drastically effected. At least in my experience with my '99 and knowing how these things are wired.

A great place to buy online is

ACTION ELECTRONICS online

Rusty