Question for installing my Marks 4 into 2 exhaust

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EAGLEPI

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Hi Guys,

I took my UFO exhaust off last night and it went well. I found that the read cylinders modst inner allen nut are almost impossible to get to with a regular "L" shaped allen wrench, I can't see how in hell to get a torgue wrench in there to torgue them.

In fact those 2 inner allen bolts that were on my exhaust studs were loose and I could turn them with my fingers, I guess whoever installed the UFO had the same problems that I can forsee when I install my new Mark's

Hell most of you are saying thay had to cut down the 8 MM "L" shaped allen wrench just to get in there, I know I am not going to be able to use a torgue wrench. Is tightening them as tight as possible without going too tight OK??

RON
 
On my Kerker I tightend enough to not get a leak then a little bit more and monitored the nuts to keep from loosing them ( a couple loosened, to finger tight too ). When I took the rear tubes off to fix the leak, where they joined the main pipes, I ended up cutting an allen wrench.
 
I haven't done this yet...(will soon hopefully)...so I'm not speaking from experience but can't you simply grind 1" - 1 1/2" off the end of your 8mm tool kit allen wrench and use it in a 8mm 3/8" drive socket (or whatever drive your torque wrench is)?

I did this with all the allen wrenches in the tool kit and duct taped the short pieces in some old sockets I had lying around. Now, instead of screwing around with the 'L' shaped allen wrenches I use a ratchet.

The REALLY smart money would prolly get a pre-made set of these sockets & wrenches.

http://cgi.ebay.com/13PC-METRIC-HEX...QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f0QQsalenotsupported

It's the first set I came across, but no reason why they won't work just fine.
 
I just use a cut down allen wrench and tighten until its sealed. Then recheck in a couple days. You'll probably have to re- tighen it a bit.
I don't think you'll be able to use a torque wrench.

Dale #2592
 
I did both, got a set of socket allen wrenches, and cut myself a "L" shape stubby, like a fool I battled with it for 30 minutes then cut it down and it was done in 2 minutes. It's the back inner flange bolts that's a son of a gun unless you cut dow the "L" shape allen wrench.

If you have never done this before do yourself a huge favor, cut the "L" shape allen wrench down to a stubby like this.

stubby.jpg


Ron
 
I finished putting my exhaust on and The left side rear cylinder has a leak, I can feel the air coming out. The other 3 feel fine, do I have to loosen all the flanges again or can I just adjust the one with the leak?

Looks like nothing is going to be easy for me. I have instaled and uninstalled the entire exhaust system 4 times today and I spoke to Mark and he can't figure why it would leak. I have made sure that the flanges are evenly tightened each time and still the right rear cylinder leaks.. Now it looks like I am going to be shipping my exhaust back to Mark and let him look the over.. another week or so without riding my New VMAX.

I may try one more time to installed them later tonight but if they leak I am going to freak!!!!! This sucks so bad.. It's one damn thing after another..


Ron
 
I finished putting my exhaust on and The left side rear cylinder has a leak, I can feel the air coming out. The other 3 feel fine, do I have to loosen all the flanges again or can I just adjust the one with the leak?

thanks
Ron

Ironically (maybe its cause mark used to work for kerker, hell I dunno) when I installed my kerker I had a small leak at the #1 cyl. I just tightened it up right there without lossening the other bolts. No more leaks.
 
Ron,
You should be able to tighten just the leaky one without having to loosen the others. There needs to be enough give in the piping to allow all 4 pipes to mate up tight anyway. Let us know how it goes.
 
If anyone has installed a set of Mark's exhaust lately I would be interested in how it went for you. Did you install the springs as you go or did you wait until it was on bolted up and you tested for leaks?

Thanks
Ron
 
I waited until I had it bolted up and then put the springs on before starting it. The springs are there as a secondary measure to the head flange/ muffler bolts. Once you have the pipes fitted together and bolted down the springs help maintain the connections.
Luckily I was able to install my exhaust without having to pull it back off. If you are still having problems with the air leak I would check to make sure that you don't have a issue with that gasket.
 
I tighened the flange bolts super tight and my leaks went away after puting the whole system on and off 5 times. It sounds great and runs awesome ( mostly because of the work Sean did on my carbs ) but I'm sure the new exhaust adds to the quality of the ride,

Now it's all together and running great so tonight I'll take all the parts off that I got chrome part for and trade them out. I know that will go much easier.

Ron
 
I tighened the flange bolts super tight and my leaks went away after puting the whole system on and off 5 times. It sounds great and runs awesome ( mostly because of the work Sean did on my carbs ) but I'm sure the new exhaust adds to the quality of the ride,

Now it's all together and running great so tonight I'll take all the parts off that I got chrome part for and trade them out. I know that will go much easier.

Ron
Good deal Ron! I knew you were going to love the sound that Mark's exhaust puts out, mine turns heads wherever I go!:punk: I had a couple people hustle out of stores and out to curbside as I cruised through the tourist district next to the Soo Locks just to see what the hell was coming down the steet. Cruising in 1st gear at 3 - 4000 r's sounds so bitchin'. :thumbs up:
 
I agree Brian, it does sound bitching.....Buy if was a bitch to get them on without leaking. Bur then again I have never done any of this stuff so I guess I have to expect things to be tough the first dew times.

Ron
 
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