Decter
Well-Known Member
Would that bike be a good deal around 5? With some of the add ons is there anything I should be concerned with?
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tothemax93
Well-Known Member
It looks good to me. Mods are pratical, has a quality aftermarket exhaust. Bike looks well maintained. Most guys here prefer stage seven or morleys carb kits instead of stage one for better performance, but it could run very well like it is. The rear tire looks like it might have a burn out or two on it though. I'd try $5000.
Decter
Well-Known Member
Ok, so I got a chance to take a look and test ride the 2004 Vmax I mentioned before.
First thoughts, you dont notice your RPM until you accidentally go above 6k, at which point you really notice a difference in speed.
The bike looks in great shape, though I did notice some slight rust looking corrosion near the top of one of where one of the cylinders met the covering of the cylinder. Is this just from living on the coast or something I should be worried about?
The owner also mentioned that the front forks have been replaced with stiffer ones. Aside from that, it comes with stock and corbin seat. Asking is 4k.
Any thoughts?
I didn't notice any sensation of slipping while moving through the gears though I was riding more instinctively and moving up the gears as the bike increased RPMs.
First thoughts, you dont notice your RPM until you accidentally go above 6k, at which point you really notice a difference in speed.
The bike looks in great shape, though I did notice some slight rust looking corrosion near the top of one of where one of the cylinders met the covering of the cylinder. Is this just from living on the coast or something I should be worried about?
The owner also mentioned that the front forks have been replaced with stiffer ones. Aside from that, it comes with stock and corbin seat. Asking is 4k.
Any thoughts?
I didn't notice any sensation of slipping while moving through the gears though I was riding more instinctively and moving up the gears as the bike increased RPMs.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
I would say get it. When the owner is talking about replacing the forks...he is probably talking about the front fork SPRINGS, which is also one of the first mods that people tend to do. Corrosion is probably just one of those things from being on the coast.
So...if you feel good about it...get it. Any problems that you run into, SOMEONE here on the forum knows how to fix it, and will gladly pass on the knowledge.
I think the bike is worth 4K...but again, it depends on if you do, and whether or not you can talk him down.
So...if you feel good about it...get it. Any problems that you run into, SOMEONE here on the forum knows how to fix it, and will gladly pass on the knowledge.
I think the bike is worth 4K...but again, it depends on if you do, and whether or not you can talk him down.
Not a bad price for sure. To test 2nd gear you need to accelerate HARD from first to second and see if it stays in gear until ready to go to third (not a bad idea to check that too). If it survives those few gears (and you're going to be moving very fast by then) I'd say you're in good shape. Make sure the bike is adequately warmed up before running it hard though.
The "surge" in RPM/Speed is the infamous Vboost. At 5800rpm it begins to open the vboost crossover with full opening around 8k. This allows for two cylinders to share carbs and double the fuel volume to make more top end power. There should be a "test cycle" of the servo when first turning the key on. This will sounds like a hum>>hum or Whir>>whir and then back quiet. Again this is a good thing.
As noted the springs are what was likely replaced. Either progressive or racetech. Inexpensive mod that is common to do.
The "surge" in RPM/Speed is the infamous Vboost. At 5800rpm it begins to open the vboost crossover with full opening around 8k. This allows for two cylinders to share carbs and double the fuel volume to make more top end power. There should be a "test cycle" of the servo when first turning the key on. This will sounds like a hum>>hum or Whir>>whir and then back quiet. Again this is a good thing.
As noted the springs are what was likely replaced. Either progressive or racetech. Inexpensive mod that is common to do.
Decter
Well-Known Member
My main concern is the mileage being around 30k and some unknown engine issue surprising me that is currently hiding out.
A few Vmax questions for you.
I didn't notice any crazy difficulty with handling, is this due to after market fork springs you mentioned?
Is there any benefit to making the Vmax engage the vboost system at a lower rpm? I have read in a few places it gives you better low end power but also that there isn't enough pressure built up under 6k for it to make a difference.
What is the max hp I can expect out of a Vmax engine assuming I have put the money in the right mods?
A few Vmax questions for you.
I didn't notice any crazy difficulty with handling, is this due to after market fork springs you mentioned?
Is there any benefit to making the Vmax engage the vboost system at a lower rpm? I have read in a few places it gives you better low end power but also that there isn't enough pressure built up under 6k for it to make a difference.
What is the max hp I can expect out of a Vmax engine assuming I have put the money in the right mods?
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Like I said...mine had 26K when I bought it, and last summer put it on a dyno, and told the operator that redline was 10K. 5 runs later still running strong, and I drove home almost 400 miles. The older high mileage engines tend to make more HP as well.
The Vmax is a big heavy bike, and the springs (stock) aren't set up for spirited corners. Aftermarket springs help with that.
I'm wanting to say that Sean dyno'd bikes with the V-boost coming in at 3000 rpm, and it actually lost HP. The Vmax has performance cams in it from the factory, and they don't start cooking until 6000 rpm.
With stage 7 carb kit, or Seans muscle jet kit (tuned very well) and a Kerker 4-1 125 to 127hp is the normal. That an increase from the 110-115 hp of stock.
Decter
Well-Known Member
So, can a Vmax be adjusted with a better suspension that will give it more "spirit" in the corners?
The first thing I do to any Max will be to put the 11.5 inch progressive shocks on the rear to lower it. I am only 5'7 and the stock are a bit high for me. Will this have any negative impact on it's performance?
When riding it, as it wasn't my bike, I didn't push the motor much as far as RPM. Is it a terrible idea to fully test it?
The first thing I do to any Max will be to put the 11.5 inch progressive shocks on the rear to lower it. I am only 5'7 and the stock are a bit high for me. Will this have any negative impact on it's performance?
When riding it, as it wasn't my bike, I didn't push the motor much as far as RPM. Is it a terrible idea to fully test it?
davesax36
Well-Known Member
Just lowering the rear isn't going to get you what you want. Without a corresponding adjustment in the front, you're actually making the handling slower. The stock springs are incredibly soft. Just replacing those fork internals with the spring of your choice (cough... Racetech... Cough) will make a huge difference in your ability to ride not just in a straight line.
It's NOT a bad idea to test it hard. If it's been warmed up, you should be fine. I don't think any Vmax seller who's allowing test rides would be surprised by a hard run up through the gears. That's what this thing was built for.
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It's NOT a bad idea to test it hard. If it's been warmed up, you should be fine. I don't think any Vmax seller who's allowing test rides would be surprised by a hard run up through the gears. That's what this thing was built for.
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Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Yes it can be adjusted. Here's what I did to mine. progressive springs (1 inch lower). Preload adjusters to put about another 1/2 inch on the front springs. 11.5 progressive springs for the rear. Front fork brace, and frame braces.
So dropping the Vmax in ride height will have a little detriment to corning ability because bikes with a higher center of gravity corner and turn better, but I haven't seen it that much, plus everything that I did made the bike VERY stable in the corners.
There are people in this forum that 2nd gear was so bad that the minute that they would shift (even driving normal) and it would pop out. (PHYSICALLY pop out of gear).
So I can understand not riding it super hard because its not yours, but it all depends on how the PO drove it. If he treated it normal, and clutched his 1-2 shifts, then the transmission is fine.
cgswss
Well-Known Member
First, Don't be worried about the mileage! If its got some mileage, You know it hasn't been sitting in the shop!
The Max is a big and heavy bike. It has a long wheelbase. Pure and simple, Its not going to handle like a 600 sport bike. You can't adjust off 200 lbs!
For 95% of the people that ride them, the V-Max handles "good enough" The real weak spot is not the early bikes- the forks were just plain wimpy. That was improves a great deal on bike newer then '93. To improve the handling for more one up twisty riding, new shocks, springs, fork brace, and frame braces will do wonders. If you want to play joe racer, You can change the front forks (I know there are a lot of maxers out there wearing R1 front ends) and you can also have the swing arm braced.
I really don't think you have to go that far. I would look more like a set of GOOD shocks and a fork brace and you will be golden. Remember you can change the handling of the bike a great deal with just putting better tires on it.
As far as what to do and bang for your buck, I really think you should give Sean a call. He can get you anything for your Max, he may have what you want used, and I just don't think you will find anyone with as much hands on experience when it comes to the V-Max. Sean is one2dmax if you haven't figured it out yet.
The Max is a big and heavy bike. It has a long wheelbase. Pure and simple, Its not going to handle like a 600 sport bike. You can't adjust off 200 lbs!
For 95% of the people that ride them, the V-Max handles "good enough" The real weak spot is not the early bikes- the forks were just plain wimpy. That was improves a great deal on bike newer then '93. To improve the handling for more one up twisty riding, new shocks, springs, fork brace, and frame braces will do wonders. If you want to play joe racer, You can change the front forks (I know there are a lot of maxers out there wearing R1 front ends) and you can also have the swing arm braced.
I really don't think you have to go that far. I would look more like a set of GOOD shocks and a fork brace and you will be golden. Remember you can change the handling of the bike a great deal with just putting better tires on it.
As far as what to do and bang for your buck, I really think you should give Sean a call. He can get you anything for your Max, he may have what you want used, and I just don't think you will find anyone with as much hands on experience when it comes to the V-Max. Sean is one2dmax if you haven't figured it out yet.
tothemax93
Well-Known Member
The other upgrade that's raved about is radial tires. You have to modify your existing wheels or get new ones. I don't have them, but it's supposed to be night and day difference in handling. Not cheap though. Another one2dmax question. He sells the wheels.
davesax36
Well-Known Member
Also Kosman. They will put a wider and taller rim on a stock rear wheel. I think satariel on here was welding Vmax drive hubs onto 17" sport bike wheels (that's what I have.. Big pain with spacers and stuff).
First get a bike. Then come on here and we'll help you spend all your money.
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Lots of options to make the bike better. Keep in mind the design is approaching 30 years old so a lot of technology has changed compared to modern bikes.
Depending on how much money you want to spend there is a lot that can be done.
1.) Lowered Seat for more comfort and to help get you flat footed. We'd sell you a "full" cut. We can do some work to the rear seat to make your passenger more comfortable too.
2.) Lowering Springs for the front forks. If you have progressives already we can simply sell you the internal lowering springs for $20. Either in 1" or 2" lowering. Get too low and you're ground clearance will suffer. Still, lowering 2" has been done numerous times. My normal recommendation is -1" front and -1.5" rear. Add the adjustable fork caps and make quick and easy preload adjustments that you can't do right now.
3.) Shorter Shocks. Buy the best you can afford. The progressive 412's are the least expensive we sell and are marginally better then stock. The 444's are light years better. I do have other brands that are more expensive but again we'd need to know your final goals and budget.
The above will get you sitting where you need to be. For handling:
1.) - Frame Braces and/or solid mounts
2.) - Braced/Notched Swingarm (or even extended). I like the extended arms which really improve stability and allow us to prepare for radial tires with a more centered wheel. The extended arm also gives us room to extend the fuel tank for a longer range (one additional gallon).
3.) - Radial Wheels. The Carrozzeria wheels we sell are expensive but a fraction of the weight which improves bike reaction to rider inputs. Plus they allow for modern radial rubber to be installed. One of the biggest changes you can make to the bike.
Braking - if you want to go you need to be able to slow!
1.) Simple Pad Change to Sintered
2.) Braided Brake Lines
3.) Upgraded Brake Kit (larger rotors and six piston busa caliper to increase braking power).
Power:
Stock is around 110-112 rwhp with some below and above that. With a good header/jet kit you can generally get into the 120's. The higher mileage bikes can get into the 130's.
1.) Header (full header if not already installed)
2.) Jet Kit (something like our Muscle kit or the stage seven)
3.) After the above it's going to be time to get into the engine. Lots of options here and even a supercharged option. Bring the bigger budget though.
Depending on how much money you want to spend there is a lot that can be done.
1.) Lowered Seat for more comfort and to help get you flat footed. We'd sell you a "full" cut. We can do some work to the rear seat to make your passenger more comfortable too.
2.) Lowering Springs for the front forks. If you have progressives already we can simply sell you the internal lowering springs for $20. Either in 1" or 2" lowering. Get too low and you're ground clearance will suffer. Still, lowering 2" has been done numerous times. My normal recommendation is -1" front and -1.5" rear. Add the adjustable fork caps and make quick and easy preload adjustments that you can't do right now.
3.) Shorter Shocks. Buy the best you can afford. The progressive 412's are the least expensive we sell and are marginally better then stock. The 444's are light years better. I do have other brands that are more expensive but again we'd need to know your final goals and budget.
The above will get you sitting where you need to be. For handling:
1.) - Frame Braces and/or solid mounts
2.) - Braced/Notched Swingarm (or even extended). I like the extended arms which really improve stability and allow us to prepare for radial tires with a more centered wheel. The extended arm also gives us room to extend the fuel tank for a longer range (one additional gallon).
3.) - Radial Wheels. The Carrozzeria wheels we sell are expensive but a fraction of the weight which improves bike reaction to rider inputs. Plus they allow for modern radial rubber to be installed. One of the biggest changes you can make to the bike.
Braking - if you want to go you need to be able to slow!
1.) Simple Pad Change to Sintered
2.) Braided Brake Lines
3.) Upgraded Brake Kit (larger rotors and six piston busa caliper to increase braking power).
Power:
Stock is around 110-112 rwhp with some below and above that. With a good header/jet kit you can generally get into the 120's. The higher mileage bikes can get into the 130's.
1.) Header (full header if not already installed)
2.) Jet Kit (something like our Muscle kit or the stage seven)
3.) After the above it's going to be time to get into the engine. Lots of options here and even a supercharged option. Bring the bigger budget though.
Sean laid it out for you.
For my $, the best change in handling is radials, I went w/a rear Kosman, used, from one of the members, and re-used the stock front for a radial. If you have to buy new tires, then it's about $600 for the modded rear wheel, since the price of new tires is probably a wash (bias ply vs radials).
The handling, resistance to weaving, and precision as you get into 4th and 5th gear speeds is worlds-better than w/bias ply tires. If you run two-thirds or better into the VMax's capabilities at-speed, then you have to run radials.
The 1993+ fork and brakes is a much-better deal for handling/braking, and used components aren't that bad in price, just make sure the downtubes are straight and not pitted. Pitted downtubes will eat your new fork seals immediately. Forking by Frank will probably charge you $300+ shipped for replacement downtubes. You have a lot of options for calipers to fit the later model forks' 100 mm on-center spacing for mounting. Don't forget you need the 298 mm 1993+ rotors too.
For my $, the best change in handling is radials, I went w/a rear Kosman, used, from one of the members, and re-used the stock front for a radial. If you have to buy new tires, then it's about $600 for the modded rear wheel, since the price of new tires is probably a wash (bias ply vs radials).
The handling, resistance to weaving, and precision as you get into 4th and 5th gear speeds is worlds-better than w/bias ply tires. If you run two-thirds or better into the VMax's capabilities at-speed, then you have to run radials.
The 1993+ fork and brakes is a much-better deal for handling/braking, and used components aren't that bad in price, just make sure the downtubes are straight and not pitted. Pitted downtubes will eat your new fork seals immediately. Forking by Frank will probably charge you $300+ shipped for replacement downtubes. You have a lot of options for calipers to fit the later model forks' 100 mm on-center spacing for mounting. Don't forget you need the 298 mm 1993+ rotors too.
tkdtuffgirl2003
Well-Known Member
I bought my 2001 vmax in San Diego 2 yrs ago for $3800. It had around 28k miles but was well loved.
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Decter
Well-Known Member
Alright guys, one last check up for me.
Found this today, and wanted your insight. Somewhat short fused as I need to be there at 11 tomorrow morning, so hopefully some of you login in tonight.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcd/4293719576.html
Any thoughts?
Found this today, and wanted your insight. Somewhat short fused as I need to be there at 11 tomorrow morning, so hopefully some of you login in tonight.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcd/4293719576.html
Any thoughts?
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Its a very good clean looking bike. It looks to be 100% stock, so you don't have to worry about someone messing it up. Ask if you can take it for a test drive to check 2nd gear (as stated before)...open it up in 2nd, if it passes buy it. It appears to be a good price too, but always see if you can talk them down.
Looks like a great deal. I'd shit can the windscreen (which was an accessory) and keep the accessory engine guards. I would not worry much about 2nd gear (though failures can occur any time). Biggest thing I would be concerned with is carbs since it's obviously sat a lot. If it starts and idles without choke well you are likely good to go. The pilot circuit is the first thing to clog up.
Decter
Well-Known Member
To clarify, to test second gear I rev it high in first, up shift into second, and rev high again to see if it stays in second?! Sorry for the repetition guys.
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