What wiring needs to be soldered on an 85 Max?

[Shuriken]

Howdy,

I'd like to know about all of the points in the electrical system that should be soldered. So for example, where is the infamous "crimp" so I can find it and solder it? And should I rewire the regulator and/or replace the stock regulator? What other connections should be soldered and where are they located?

Thanks

 

[maleko89]

I soldered the three wire stator connection to the R/R. I also soldered the connector of the red wire coming out of the stator to the harness. Solder the connections to the main fuse.

Does your R/R have the fins? If not, get one that does. Just order an R/R from a '96 or newer model. The old model gets pretty hot and doesn't last as long. Clean where the R/R mounts to the frame and put a conductive grease on that. The late model R/R comes with a separate ground wire. I put a ring terminal on the end and ran it to the battery. I also ran a separate ground wire and mounted one end to a R/R mounting bolt and the other end to the battery.

Here's how to fix the crimp connection.

Perform following steps to correct 'splice' issue:

1) Remove front seat section from motorcycle
2) OPTIONAL - Start the motorcycle and measure the voltage across the battery while bike is running. This is the charging voltage.
3) Remove 2 10mm bolts holding rear coil assy (Figure 2 below). You will need to unplug some of the various electrical connectors which limit the rear coil assy from moving so you can get underneath to the taped area of the harness
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Figure 2 - Picture of area under the front seat section
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4) Follow the 'culprit' wire into the wiring harness to locate area where electrical tape needs to be removed (Figure 3 below)
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Figure 2 - Picture shows routing of 'culprit' wire into harness under
rear coil assy (rear coil assy is lifted up for this picture)
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5) Remove electrical tape from the harness until the red 'culprit' wire and 'splice' area are visible (figure 4 below)
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Figure 4 - The 'crimp' exposed
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6) Solder the crimped connection making sure adequate solder flows into the 'crimp'
7) Re-tape the harness with good electrical tape
8) Plug in any electrical connectors that were previously unplugged, re-install the rear coil assy with 2 10mm bolts
9) OPTIONAL - Start motorcycle and measure the voltage across the battery. Note any difference from step 2 above (if performed)
10) Re-install front seat section and go for a long ride, stopping only to eat, fuel up, or, well, you know. Have fun!


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[4gasem]

I used a propane torch and solder to get the job done quick and then wrapped in electrical tape.

 

[Redbone]

Any concerns with open flames/heat around the original battery? May want to remove the battery if you have a lead acid type battery as the fumes are highly flameable. Not sure about the gel cell type batteries.....:confused2:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

As long as it's not being charged it shouldn't be gassing off hydrogen.

I'd cover the battery with some damp rags and make sure you got a little air movement going.
I used a propane torch on mine also since my gun was having a problem heating that big ass crimp up enough to solder right.

Rusty

 

[Bill Seward]

If you run the charge and ground wires directly to the battery - you will not need to do the "crimp fix", as the charging current does not go through it.

I'm not certain if the '96 and up R/R unit has a ground wire, but the aftermarket ones do... I bought an Electrex for my '85 and have had no problems with it.

Replacing the old R/R unit with a properly functioning modern one is the best money you can spend on an early model VMax!

Lots of info here on the subject... Have a look around the site.

 

[Shuriken]

Thanks, guys. This is the kind of info I was after.