Float level twilight zone

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When it stops clicking, the bowls are full. (supposedly).
So, you have a certain volume of fuel sitting in each bowl.
Unless you have an auto feed on the bowls (your key in the run position and the bike on), that volume will not be replaced till the bike is cycled on again.
So, if tube 1 requires 5Ml to fill up to the reading of 1/2 way point of the carb cover, and tube 2 requires 10 Ml to trying to get to the same reading, how can the readings ever be equal between one person and another?
What I'm really asking is, how one person can say it should be 15mm or 17mm if they are not all using the exact same tubing. One person may have 14mm simply because he's using a larger diameter tube for the test. He might be going crazy trying to get to 17mm, pulling his carbs off to re-adjust the floats.
If you purchased the leveling kit that Yamaha recommends, then you can be 100% sure of your readings.


Not true, empty float chambers will require two cycles of the fuel pump to fill them, sometimes a few clicks on the third cycle.

Think of how the fuel supply system works....it maintains a constant fuel level in the chamber, you need to duplicate this when doing a wet level check.
 
Not true, empty float chambers will require two cycles of the fuel pump to fill them, sometimes a few clicks on the third cycle..

This is correct, the fuel
pump is pretty smart, if it thinks its pumping too freely it shuts down, it wants a little back pressure to run, it something, I don't know how it really does it.

I found this out when trying to use the fuel pump to empty the gas tank, had to cycle it over and over again. It would run maybe 3-5 seconds tops when pumping to a gas can.
 
Good thinking Rusty, you're absolutely correct.....the float will always be in the same position for a 17mm wet level no matter where the seat is....the tab is the compensating factor. :doh:

Yes, air bubbles will screw you up good, I bench test in pairs also, it's easier to work the bubbles out.

Also, you should create at least the same amount of head pressure on the fuel as the fuel pump to insure proper seating....my set-up kind of resembles a large bong.....should the POlice come busting in during a float set I would probly have some s'plainin' to do.

Here's an early version...since been upgraded to a platform with leveling bolts and Dynojet decals (very important!) :biglaugh:


Wow danny that's a good setup...
 
Good thinking Rusty, you're absolutely correct.....the float will always be in the same position for a 17mm wet level no matter where the seat is....the tab is the compensating factor. :doh:

Yes, air bubbles will screw you up good, I bench test in pairs also, it's easier to work the bubbles out.

Also, you should create at least the same amount of head pressure on the fuel as the fuel pump to insure proper seating....my set-up kind of resembles a large bong.....should the POlice come busting in during a float set I would probly have some s'plainin' to do.

Here's an early version...since been upgraded to a platform with leveling bolts and Dynojet decals (very important!) :biglaugh:



I see the secrete way Danny is setting floats........have the back tire off to set the floats eh.....sneaky sneaky .........
 
Thanks! Despite the 'Rube Goldberg-ish' appearance, it actually works pretty good! :biglaugh:

i'd expect nothing less dann-o

i've found most people are cosmetically minded or functional minded. me, i'm the latter, so if i set up something like that it'd look like hell but work perfect. i'd rather have than a trick looking setup that worked half the time!
 
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