Mounting a 200/50R18 rear tire on a Gen1

[HyperPete]

Did you put a 200 on a 6" or 5.5" rim?

On a 5.5 I decided to go for 180/55 instead of 190/50 despite that the clearance offered by the modified swingarm I have.

The 190 is good on 6" but is at the limit of recommended tires for 5.5".

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Good information! I thought it would have to be a 180/60R18. re: width, I don't know. the tire was already mounted on the rim.

After checking on Google, it looks like RC wheels are usually 5.5" for the rear and 3.5" for the front but I could be wrong.

I'll try to measure the rim when I get the tire changed.

 

[HyperPete]

Well, I just spoke with John. (He called me to make sure things are OK - Thank you John!) He says that the space on the left in the 3rd photo in post #26 is OK, that the splines will be engaged sufficiently and there should not be any grease slinging. I do not intend to ride in the rain or on dirt roads, so I'm not going to worry about contaminating the splines.

SO, I'm going to give it ANOTHER shot tonight! (It saves me a 3 hour round trip to get a different tire.) This is my stubborn side kicking in again.

John is perfectly willing to do the tire swap for me if I can't make it work, but he insists that it will fit with enough tweaking. I aim to prove him right!

Wish me luck!!

 

[RMSVMAX]

As I had said earlier in this thread, the best & easiest way to get a wide tire into a VMax is to slide the 'pumpkin' in with the wheel/tire...This also makes it easier to use the axle as an alignment tool, & hold the spacer firmly inside the wheel, until everything is firmly in plce, then put the axle in from the right, & tighten everything up...(leave the 4 acorns on the rear loose as well-helps align the rear)
Tip: I seperate the driveshaft from the rear-just press fit-& install the driveshaft 1st, then slide the rear/wheel/tire in afterwards...
Again, makes it simpler & easier...

OK, back to work for me;
Hope this helped!

 

[davesax36]

I wouldn't go out on the street with a pumpkin gap.... just sayin.

 

[HyperPete]

I wouldn't go out on the street with a pumpkin gap.... just sayin.

Why not? Everything is sealed inside.

 

[Diablotin]

Good information! I thought it would have to be a 180/60R18. re: width, I don't know. the tire was already mounted on the rim.

I'll try to measure the rim when I get the tire changed.

Usually most of the tire manufacturer give a recommended rim size with a 0.5" tolerance. 190 is usually recommended for 6", 180 for 5.5".
It gives the best contact patch and handling. When increasing the size you lose in both but get on the look. 190 on 5.5" is usually not so noticeable specially on heavy bikes like the vmax.

I tried fitting a 120 Metzeler roadtec z6 on a front stock rim (lack of options during that time), and ended up with the tire cupping. So now I'm a bit more careful LOL


I guess some 200 tires still fit well depending on the brand.

 

[one2dmax]

So far there is no unified code by the tire manufacturers on width and height requirements (or even wear numbers). So, they are only rated between tires within the same brand. That's why you can see 150's wider then some 170's. Shinko was pretty bad about that in the beginning but I think have improved some in recent years. Typically the widest between brands tends to be the Metzler's and Avon's.

We have run 200/50's (and 55's) on a 5.5" rim with no adverse affects so far. Of course you do have to see if you have the clearance for it. We don't notch our extended swingarms so we can offset the rear .250" over to the left. This helps get the wheel closer to the centerline of the chassis for more neutral handling. This also still clears the 200 when mounted on a Carr wheel though most of that is the offset naturally built into the wheel.

Not every aftermarket wheel has the same offset and as such there is no one predictor that can say for sure what wheel will clear what tire. The RC Comp and Carr wheels are very similar. I have seen conversion wheels however that sit much more the to left which means a smaller tire must be run if you don't notch the arm.

When we offset the arm it also helps shift the arm over so the fender doesn't rub. Just another side benefit!

 

[srk468]

I have an extended and notched swingarm I did myself and I'm running a 200/50-18 Shinko verge on a Kosman weldup 18x6 wheel, I had to shift mine to the right as well but never had to move my fender. I didn't want to put the washer in between the splines so I had a friend make me 2 spacers, one goes on the wheel before the cush drive (the pins go into the rubber inserts plenty far to do this) and the other is a spacer to take up the slack on the axle, you also need to mill the caliper bracket whatever thickness you added (1/4" in my case) to shift the wheel over. Can't imagine doing it without a stretched and notched swingarm but good luck bud

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[HyperPete]

I'll have to ride the tire hard, probably at the max inflation pressure, because there is only about 2 MM clearance per side when shimmed. I won't want it flexing and rubbing.

Maybe there will be additional clearance - it had not occurred to me that I was checking clearance without air in the tire. Tonight will be the make or brake attempt. If I still cannot make it work I am not going to try any further. There is a point when stubborn becomes stupid, and I am approaching that line for sure!

 

[Redbone]

I'm sure John or Sean could provide you with a notched swingarm on exchange if your current efforts are not successful. Bikes look sweet, nice fleet!unk:
I run a Shinko 200/50-18 on a Carrozzeria 18" (5.5" wide) with 3" extended/ braced/ drive offset .250 (I believe...) and have the shocks lower mounting points moved forward ~2.5" to maintain near stock mounting points. I run 13" Progressive 440's with stock springs which work well for me. I shimmed the rear fenders 2 front mount bolts to push the front of the fender down as I was worried the license plate might hit the tire under full compression which it does not.
I have to remove the pumpkin to change the tire which is a little more work than with stock but well worth it to have the setup I like.

 

[HyperPete]

I won't say it can't be done. I will say that I can't do it. Perhaps with endless time, endless shims, and endless patience you MIGHT be able to get it to clear both sides by a MM or so, but I can't do it. I am worn out. I'm done trying. I'll be happy to put a smaller tire back there.

 

[Traumahawk]

I remember reading an article that not all Vmaxs were perfect from the factory....sometimes the back tire (swing arm) would be off by just a couple of MM. Could be thats the reason why the 200 might fit on some bikes...but your having trouble.

 

[davesax36]

I wouldn't go out on the street with a pumpkin gap.... just sayin.

I'd rather not get road grit all up in the greased splines. Maybe it's a mental thing.

 

[one2dmax]

Doing the washer swap between the diff and wheel doesn't inherently expose the splines to more road grime or other problems. The shields still give plenty of coverage.

 

[davesax36]

That gap looked way bigger than just a washer swap. Maybe I was seeing it wrong. I'm pretty sure my tire is gonna need the as washer swap.

 

[HyperPete]

That gap looked way bigger than just a washer swap. Maybe I was seeing it wrong. I'm pretty sure my tire is gonna need the as washer swap.

No, you are right. The photo showing the gap was using the stepped washer from between the wheel and the brake arm as the shim between the hub and the rim.

I also tried (2) 3/4" washers I got at Lowes last evening which were a little less thick than the stepped washer. I think I have tried just about every combination possible with all of the stock washers/bushings and the two Lowes washers with no success. I can get it VERY close, but something rubs in all circumstances. Even if I could get it exactly right so there is clearance on both sides and between the brake arm and rotor bolts, I would be worried that something would rub while riding due to hitting bumps or just the pressures of normal riding.

I do think it could be possible if perhaps one is able to machine shims as they go, to get the perfect tolerances, but it will be too close for me. I don't really care about the fat look on this bike. It's not important to me, I was only doing this because it was the tire that came with the rim and I was told it would bolt right up.

A 180, or even a 160 will be fine with me. Whatever is going to bolt right in without playing with the washers.

I've taken the new rim off and put it in the trunk of my car. The old Bias Ply and stock rim are on just so I can push the bike around until I get the new tire mounted.

 

[HyperPete]

So, before I order a tire that won't fit, will the 180/55R18 fit with no washer swap, no mods, no adjustments? I want compatibility, not worried about a phat rear tire.
What is the "best" size for the bike. (Yes, I realize that's subjective...)
I just don't want to have to fight to get it to fit.

Thank you.

 

[davesax36]

You have to get something that won't be funky for your rim width, but we know a 170 fits.

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[HyperPete]

It looks like my only option for my 18" rim, if I want to stay with the Metzler ME880 to match the front, is going to be the 180/55R18. They don't make a 170, or apparently even a 160.

 

[gamorg02]

It looks like my only option for my 18" rim, if I want to stay with the Metzler ME880 to match the front, is going to be the 180/55R18. They don't make a 170, or apparently even a 160.

I know folks with carrozzeria rims have fit that tire, but not sure if a washer swap is necessary. But I'm not sure what the offset of your room vs those is.

-garrett