Newb with fork lowering questions

[KY_BOB]

These are probably stupid questions. There are lots of post on this but I have a couple of questions that I can't find the answer to.

I have a set of progressive lowering springs that I got from the previous owner. He had purchased them and never installed them. The kit can be installed to lower the front either 1" or 2".

The bike is now in the shop for new tires, battery and some minor things. I ask the shop owner about installing the springs. He said that he thought the forks have to be completely disassembled to replace the springs on a V-max. Is this true? He did say that some bikes didn't but he thought that the V-max did. What would be a fair amount for him to charge for the labor?


He also said that most bikes can be lowered by lowering the forks in the trees and this was cheap and easy. I know that is true but the air fill is directly below the trees. I've read on here that some have done this even though it's not the preferred method. What happens to the air fill if you do this? If the springs are already too soft and you lose the ability to air them up, I really understand why this isn't a good idea.

The rear of the bike already has 11.5" Progressive shocks. I'm concerned that not lowering the front will make the front end light on acceleration and I don't like unexpected wheelies. Is this a valid concern?

Also the bike doesn't lean very far now when it's on the kickstand and there is no center stand due to the exhaust. The shop owner said that the stand would have to be shortened and re-welded or heated and bent if I lower the front. Any comments on this? Is there a shorter stand available? If I were to take it to a welder, how much should be cut out?


Thanks in advance,
Bob

 

[maleko89]

Bob, the mechanic is incorrect. it takes 15 minutes tops to swap out fork springs. Just need to remove the fork caps, preload spacers and then the springs. It looks like you have early model forks or forks from '93 or earlier. If you want to change fork oil, just remove the drain screw.

With Progressive springs the air joint isn't needed. Just remove the joint and either weld or JB weld the holes closed. I have my forks raised about an inch in the triple trees. Since your rear end is lowered by an inch and a half I would either raise the forks or put lowering blocks inside the forks (www.racetech.com)

You can't get an adjustable side stand here in the States as far as I know. You can either cut the stand and re-weld to a shorter length or just heat it and bend it to give you more lean. I think my buddy cut his about 3/4 of an inch.

 

[4gasem]

Bob, the mechanic is incorrect. it takes 15 minutes tops to swap out fork springs. Just need to remove the fork caps, preload spacers and then the springs. It looks like you have early model forks or forks from '93 or earlier. If you want to change fork oil, just remove the drain screw.

With Progressive springs the air joint isn't needed. Just remove the joint and either weld or JB weld the holes closed. I have my forks raised about an inch in the triple trees. Since your rear end is lowered by an inch and a half I would either raise the forks or put lowering blocks inside the forks (www.racetech.com)

You can't get an adjustable side stand here in the States as far as I know. You can either cut the stand and re-weld to a shorter length or just heat it and bend it to give you more lean. I think my buddy cut his about 3/4 of an inch.

www.wildbros.com has a side stand.

 

[KY_BOB]

Bob, the mechanic is incorrect. it takes 15 minutes tops to swap out fork springs. Just need to remove the fork caps, preload spacers and then the springs. It looks like you have early model forks or forks from '93 or earlier. If you want to change fork oil, just remove the drain screw.

With Progressive springs the air joint isn't needed. Just remove the joint and either weld or JB weld the holes closed. I have my forks raised about an inch in the triple trees. Since your rear end is lowered by an inch and a half I would either raise the forks or put lowering blocks inside the forks (www.racetech.com)

You can't get an adjustable side stand here in the States as far as I know. You can either cut the stand and re-weld to a shorter length or just heat it and bend it to give you more lean. I think my buddy cut his about 3/4 of an inch.

Thanks for the quick response.

Yes, my bike is an 85 with the original forks. If it's that easy of a job, I may just do it myself when I get it back. I know there are a couple of different spacers in the kit so I could play with it and get it where I want it.

The forks were rebuilt 2 year ago and new seals installed so I don't see any reason to replace the oil at this time.

Also I have a cheap hydraulic bike lift that I could leave the bike sitting on if I need to take the stand off and have it cut and welded. I assume that the exhaust won't be in the way of me using the lift. :confused2:

 

[one2dmax]

actually mark, to install the lowering part of the kit you have to disassemble the forks but you are right about just the regular springs.

You can weld like you have mentioned the holes and we don't run any air anyway so this is definitely not a problem.

You will need to cut down the stand and reweld it. Some like to grind the stop but that won't usually be enough for as low as you are talking about. We've done a few stand shortening and I have a couple of spares we use as cores to swap with. You may be able to find someone local too and cut down on shipping.

Sean Morley

 

[maleko89]

actually mark, to install the lowering part of the kit you have to disassemble the forks but you are right about just the regular springs.Sean Morley

Thanks for the correction Sean. I don't have the lowering blocks in mine so didn't know and just assumed where the blocks went. I just have the different length spacers, gold valve emulators and springs.

 

[maleko89]

Bob, one more thing. it's best to get front wheel off the ground and then carefully loosening the fork caps. The spring will pop due to spring pressure so be careful!

 

[KY_BOB]

So you guys are saying that the cheap way out is to swap only the springs, remove the air valve, fill the hole, and lower it an inch in the trees, correct?

 

[KY_BOB]

actually mark, to install the lowering part of the kit you have to disassemble the forks but you are right about just the regular springs.

You can weld like you have mentioned the holes and we don't run any air anyway so this is definitely not a problem.

You will need to cut down the stand and reweld it. Some like to grind the stop but that won't usually be enough for as low as you are talking about. We've done a few stand shortening and I have a couple of spares we use as cores to swap with. You may be able to find someone local too and cut down on shipping.

Sean Morley

Can you PM me a price for one that's been shortened?

 

[maleko89]

Yep. Only cost there is if you have someone weld the holes closed for you. In my case, I removed th forks and brought them to a welder....he charged me $20 including polishing. You can't even tell the hole was ever there.

 

[4gasem]

2 years on oil makes it about due to replace IMO. 15wt Silkolene and springs. Makes an amazing difference.

 

[Robbarrie]

If you want to go cheaper - use a 20wt tranny fluid. Just make sure you add the proper amount and not over fill. Got that tip from a shop manual for wife's Honda.

 

[COP RUNNER]

MY "06" IS LOWERED 1 INCH FRONT & BACK , I CUT MY KICKSTAND EXACTLY A 1/2 INCH SHORTER JUST ABOVE THE FOOT , IT'S PERFECT ! IF YOU GRIND BOTH OF THE PIECES YOUR USING TO A POINT , ( LIKE 2 CRAYONS TIP TO TIP ) TAC INTO PLACE , FIT IT ON THE BIKE TO GET THE KNEW FOOT ANGLE CORRECT , TAKE IT APART & RETAC AS NEEDED , THEN WELD IT UP , THIS WAY THE WELD IS ONLY FILLING UP THE VALLEY , & YOU CAN GRIND IT SMOOTH SO IT LOOKS LIKE IT WAS NEVER CUT , MAKES FOR A REAL CLEAN JOB !

 

[KY_BOB]

Thanks for the reply. one2dmax is cutting one for me. I'm sure it will be done right.

 

[Redbone]

I just installed the progressive lowering springs (2") on my "92. It really makes it look leaner and meaner for sure!unk:
I am going to go to a "12 rear shock but have the stock "13 shocks on it now. At this point I don't think I will have to cut the sidestand with the "13 rear shocks but I will once I put the "12 shocks on.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I just heated and bent my sidestand; it's been that way for a long time and actually gets the contact patch of the foot out further away from the bike anyway which I think is a good thing.

I had lowering blocks in mine (the bikes back to stock heigth now) along with the springs.

From what I could tell from how the forks work the "lowering block" doesn't really lower the bike; the shorter main springs and/or shorther spacer tubes do that.

The lowering blocks simply take up the extra room in the lower part of the fork created by lowering the forks and make the rebound spring do it's job sooner when the forks extend. Without it the forks will extend all the way to their original length when the front end comes up, preventing the weight transfer of the wheel from helping keep the front end down as soon as it would/will if the lowering blocks are in place.

I possibly could be misunderstanding how the rebound portion of the forks works, but I don't think I am....

Rusty

 

[COP RUNNER]

I ALSO HAD TO GIND THE KICKSTAND A 1/8 INCH DEEP WHERE IT HITS THE STOP , SO IT GET'S KICKED FURTHER FORWARD ALSO ! unk:

 

[shawn kloker]

I just installed the progressive lowering springs (2") on my "92. It really makes it look leaner and meaner for sure!unk:
I am going to go to a "12 rear shock but have the stock "13 shocks on it now. At this point I don't think I will have to cut the sidestand with the "13 rear shocks but I will once I put the "12 shocks on.

You will have to do something.I cut and welded mine.Got a flat rear once and the bike fell over.Pissed me off bad.I then ground the stop to get it leaning even farther over.

 

[KY_BOB]

I just got my shortened kickstand for Sean. He did nice work. I'll get it painted and installed over the next few days. Then I'll start thinking about lowering the front.

 

[KY_BOB]

Sean suggested that I have it powder coated and I would have loved to but there isn't a place within 40 miles of me to get that done. I wire brushed it on a grinder, primed it, and painted it last night. I'm thrilled with how it looks.

I installed it tonight and the bike sets like it should now, maybe a hair more lean than factory. When I get the front down an inch or so it'll be perfect.


Thanks Sean, my stock one will be on it's way to you tomorrow.



A thumbs up for Morley's Muscle from me.unk:


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