Rear rotor upgrade

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It will....but with a 5.5 " wheel the caliper just barely goes on. I haven't tried taking it off yet but I know it''ll be real easy to scratch up your wheel doing so.

Dale

The rear caliper is prepared for a thicker rotor so using a regular solid front rotor (298mm and 5mm thick) will allow for some extra free play on the caliper when removing as long as pads are pushed back. Be sure to have the rubber caps on the bleed nipples as those are the ones that may scratch the rim if not removed with care.
There are brackets prepared to use the 298mm rotors if don't want to use the small adapter on the stock bracket. Either regular upward position or underslung.

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Fred stuff is awesome! Did I read in a different post that Sean is gonna start producing someone's R 1 rear caliper conversion bracket. Maybe COO's?
 
this is a right front caliper off an R1 and a bracket from custom vmax services 298mm rotor from China works great
 

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You can go here for current pricing: http://www.customvmaxservices.co.uk/

Cycle One-off used to offer something like this but could not see it on their website, perhaps you could contact Jim Rodgers, aka TheVmaxrider for more information.
I have one that I purchased from Sean Morley but not sure if he keeps a stock of these or he sources as he gets orders.
If you sourced these from COO or Sean you would save the overseas shipping cost.
 
Brian yours is a underslung bracket so its different from the regular one. It uses a left side caliper. Keith on the site above can provide both and even a billet version of the stock one.
 
I finally got around to installing my new front and rear rotors today. It was easier than I thought it would be. Rotor bolts came right out using an impact wrench. I see how you can strip them using a rachet. A few on the front took a little while to break loose.

Big thanks to everyone who gave advise:punk:. I never would have thought to use an impact wrench, and probably would have gotten myself in a little trouble.
 
Should have known to include pics. Notice the snow in the background. I managed to get ride around the block, but it's still going to be a little while before I get a good ride in.
 

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With only one warm day last week, I finally had a chance to ride the bike for about a half hour only to find out that one or both the front rotors is warped:damn angry:. I guess that's what I get for buying used. So, I figured might as well bite the bullet and ordered brand new rotors (same ones). If only one is warped I'll have to get one of those adapters to fit another wave rotor on the back.
 
Try lubricating the bottons first. If they get gummed up they can stick making it feel warped.
 
If you do decide you have to change them. A manual
Impact driver is the only way to go on those soft and shallow Allen head retaining bolts.
 
With only one warm day last week, I finally had a chance to ride the bike for about a half hour only to find out that one or both the front rotors is warped:damn angry:. I guess that's what I get for buying used. So, I figured might as well bite the bullet and ordered brand new rotors (same ones). If only one is warped I'll have to get one of those adapters to fit another wave rotor on the back.

Lube up the buttons, graphite works well, then tap the rotors with a rubber mallet. Floating rotors, on occasion will get gummed up and not move as they should. This is where the pulsing comes from when you brake. When I first installed mine, I had pulsing from both the front and rear rotors. A little graphite and love tap from the mallet and everything was right as rain.

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