Spark plug's

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VMax-Mike

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Just went out and looked at what i need to do to change the rear plug's and what a ass-pain. Sure am glad i got knee gard's (NOT). :bang head:
 
Just looked in the book and it dont show how the heat shield thing come;s off.
 
Why would you need to remove the Heat Shield ?
Do you mean the Rubber Piece that holds the Boot in place ? They just pull up and out with the Boot.
My Rear Plugs come out pretty easily with the right Socket and correct length Extension.
I don't have Knee Guards though, so that's 1 less step for me.
 
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My rear plugs are easy, 3/8" drive ratchet with the short extension and an 18mm deep well socket... Just pull up on the rubber filler panel and they come right off... I don't have knee guards either though...

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
I called Bee and he told me about the cover Thanks Tom. And thank you to everyone else. I went through the hole's in the knee gard's.
 
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Nice and clean.


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Mike your Pictures are NOT showing up.
You might want to use the Go Advanced Button and add them as attachments.
 
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When reinstalling plugs, get a 4-5 inch length of 1//2" fuel hose. Press the plug into the hose and screw the plug in this way. It will wobble into place and never cross thread. A little wd-40 on the threads helps too. Then tighten them down. I find the best plug socket for our bikes is in the Yami too kit. You'll want too do plugs this way on everything after. IMHO
Steve-o
 
Use the drain hole on side of engine just below spark plug caps. Blow out with compressed air before removing plugs. Once removed, clean out well good for a better spark.
 
:biglaugh:
Use the drain hole on side of engine just below spark plug caps. Blow out with compressed air before removing plugs. Once removed, clean out well good for a better spark.

i do that also....
 
When reinstalling plugs, get a 4-5 inch length of 1//2" fuel hose. Press the plug into the hose and screw the plug in this way. It will wobble into place and never cross thread. A little wd-40 on the threads helps too. Steve-o

Nice one! :rofl_200:
I've been prating about with motors for donkey's years and never come across that one.

Wouldn't Copper Slip be better than WD40?
 
When reinstalling plugs, get a 4-5 inch length of 1//2" fuel hose. Press the plug into the hose and screw the plug in this way. It will wobble into place and never cross thread. A little wd-40 on the threads helps too. Then tighten them down. I find the best plug socket for our bikes is in the Yami too kit. You'll want too do plugs this way on everything after. IMHO
Steve-o


Or you could go totally anal, and make one of these.
That's a utility knob (available at most hardware stores), threaded into a piece of 3/8" O.D. tygon tubing, with a piece of 1/2" tubing over that. The nipple of the plug goes inside the inner tube, the outer tube grabs the plug on the ceramic. The thing is still flexible , to start the plugs easily, then when straightened, act like a ratchet extension to bottom the plug in the threads.
Cheers!
 

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Nice one! :rofl_200:
I've been prating about with motors for donkey's years and never come across that one.

Wouldn't Copper Slip be better than WD40?

That came to me from changing hundreds of plugs on small boats with big, twin, V8 inboards. The inboard plugs were not visable most of the time and it was a one hand task at best. There was a plug thread chaser in every mechanics tool bag.
biglaugh.gif
We actually used CRC marine equivalent of WD-40. The preference of the service mgr. I like to put something on the threads and spray the cap inside on my bike or whatever I'm working on.
Steve-o
 
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try changing plugs in a older ford taurus with v6 holy fark:rofl_200:
 
Changing plugs in a Chevy Astro van sucks big time too! Best way I found was on a lift and somebody else doing it!!!
Vmax and the factory tool kit plug wrench makes it easy-peasy.
 
I had a 427 vette guys--- don't even remind me about changing plugs!

HINT! Involves lift, removing front wheel, and loosing motor mount.

But it was worth it to drive that thing!
 
On the Taurus i think all you do is pull the bolt out of the dog bone motor mount and rock the engine forward and put the bolt back through the set hole and than you can get your hands on the back of the motor.
 
try changing a tach gen on a tpe-331-201A in -40c with wind blowing at 35mph ontop of a shaky ladder on ice........on ya fingers obviously frozen but cant wear gloves with four reduce dimension 1/4 nuts.

steve-o i got the same thing been using them for ever to help start the plugs on a bike or any big block chev in a camero lol.
you around to morrow i gotta give you a call here........
 

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