Tokico calipers

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maleko89

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I'll be installing these soon I hope. Is it necessary to bleed your calipers or at least fill 'em with fluid before re-fastening the brake line?
 
I normally don't. I usually open the bleeders then start filling the resevoir. Many times the gravity will let the fluid drain.

Either way bleeding them can be a challenge sometimes. Braided lines usually makes them bleed easier.

Sean
 
Thanks.

What are the best SS lines? I thought I remember somewhere that one brand you had to twist the banjo bolt to get them to fit right.
 
I normally don't. I usually open the bleeders then start filling the resevoir. Many times the gravity will let the fluid drain.

Either way bleeding them can be a challenge sometimes. Braided lines usually makes them bleed easier.

Sean

I've always done the gravity drain/fill/bleed method with pretty good luck. That's when just changing fluid, I've never opened the lines yet. Still running stock lines everywhere.......

Rusty
 
I've always bought my Galfer lines from White Buffalo Racing and have been happy.

Spiegler however have some nice lines that you can twist the banjo's on to keep the twist out of the lines. I've been thinking about these since I dropped my bike and the stockers are too long now.:bang head:

I use my Mity-Vac and pull a vacuum on the system. I start dry as well.
 
I finished installing my Tokico 4-pots and new Spiegler SS lines. I bled the system and the lever felt pretty good. The problem is the brakes are dragging badly. I loosened a couple of banjo bolts and then re-tightened and a bit of fluid came out but nothing major like there was a pressure buildup or anything. Anyway, they are still dragging. I verified that the calipers are centered on the rotors. I did a total rebuild of these calipers. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Mark,

Are both calipers dragging equally? I am wondering if, with the new pads, the gap between the pads, with the pistons fully inserted, is still a bit small for the rotors. If that is the case could a run in period take care of them? Know that you don't want to have too much drag or you can overheat and warp a rotor or glaze the pads. Kind of spitballing a bit here as I have not encountered that before.
 
I finished installing my Tokico 4-pots and new Spiegler SS lines. I bled the system and the lever felt pretty good. The problem is the brakes are dragging badly. I loosened a couple of banjo bolts and then re-tightened and a bit of fluid came out but nothing major like there was a pressure buildup or anything. Anyway, they are still dragging. I verified that the calipers are centered on the rotors. I did a total rebuild of these calipers. Any help would be appreciated.

Is it dragging equally over a complete revolution of the wheel or just "off and on" . If it is just dragging intermittently, it is usually a slight warp in the rotor. If it is all the time, then it is usually the caliper is not mounted square to the rotor or the caliper piston(s) are binding.
 
Thanks Buster. It's constant dragging.

I don't have the greatest eyes when it comes to seeing if they're square on the rotor. Any tips?
 
I'm using stock banjo bolts and adapters....I'll try to ensure they're square. I may put my old stockers back on to eliminate the master and new lines as the cause.
 
I would still give it a short 'run in' ride, just to make sure that it's still dragging, as you may find that it might just all settle in and be fine once in use.
 
Thanks Buster. It's constant dragging.

I don't have the greatest eyes when it comes to seeing if they're square on the rotor. Any tips?

I mount the caliper on the rotor first, apply the brakes and make sure that the pistons are out an equal amount. Then I attach it to the fork. The pistons shouldn't move if the adaptor is correct when you mount it to the fork.
 
Thanks Buster. It's constant dragging.

I don't have the greatest eyes when it comes to seeing if they're square on the rotor. Any tips?

Yeah go see an eye doctor and get some glasses:biglaugh::rofl_200::eusa_dance::punk::clapping:

Laters Bro
 
Alright kids, got it all figured out. It turned out the left caliper was fine....right was a different story. What I did was remove the calipers and push the pistons back in. Then, reinstalled pads and manually centered over rotor w/o mounting to adapters. I squeezed brake lever several times to get pads to seat against rotor and again verified it was centered and each piston was out of the bore an equal distance. With the brake pulled I couldn't move the calipers around the rotor...release and was able to so I knew master, lines and calipers were engaging/releasing fine. I then lined up the caliper to the adapter and discovered that there is a small offset between the caliper mounts and adapters. So, I used a couple of washers for shims. Not sure what the deal is. The adapters are straight and exact same thickness. Could be difference in caliper mounting tabs or even mounts on the forks? Anyway, here are a few pics including ones of my red SS lines.

Thanks to all of your help!

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Here's one of my boy....dog is sitting for me.

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And Seth getting ready to wake up his old man.

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When I fitted Nissin calipers and adaptor plates to my 86 I had to use 2 washers to stop the caliper rubbing on the rotor and when I changed to a yzf front wheel I had to file the brake pad locating thingy inside the caliper to stop it rubbing on the rotor.It would seem nothing is symetrical anymore.your new setup looks good though and I would think a vast improvement over your old ones .Kevman
 
Thanks Kevman. Now I just need better rotors up front. Kloker, are you still running Braking rotors?
 
Mark, looks good, in fact those red brake lines look very familiar??? - Now you have me worried, I'll have to check my bike when I get home to see if I still have mine - lol

Mike
 
LoL. I'm 1/2 way to Alaska...catch me if you can...
 
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