vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
Yeah and they take 4 weeks just to get them from abroad too! Priced moderately as the Holeshot and Exactrep ones.
What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
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Yeah and they take 4 weeks just to get them from abroad too! Priced moderately as the Holeshot and Exactrep ones.
Worked on my carbs some today checked & set the wet levels & changed out my PAJ 2 from 170 to 190 it seems pretty strong now. Gonna take it to the dyno in a few days & go from there. Its not perfect yet but I am expiramenting a little will probably take me a few runs to get it how I want it.
06VMAXIMUS
Well-Known Member
Blew off half a day from work and rode up to the Islands for bike week in Sandusky Ohio. Nice ride, but damn it was hot and humid at 98 degrees! I really love the intiminators that I installed in the front forks, they really help the bike feel more stable. Now if Ricor would only come out with some rear shocks that would complement the forks, I would be all set!
Geek_Law
Well-Known Member
Woohoo! I rode the max to work today! Always a fun ride. I think that's only the third time in all of 2011. She's been so neglected.
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
Hey Bob,
I feel your pain. I am working with Brian at Ricor to come up with the fitment to our bikes. Keep your fingers crossed.
Chief Gunner
Well-Known Member
I finished the install of the Progressive fork springs I bought at Python and took my Bitch for a fast ride up into the local twisties (San Diego mountains). :eusa_dance:
It handles awesome but it's just a tad too stiff I'll give things a few rides to settle in and then Im thinking I'll cut the spacers down in the forks 1/8th of an inch untill I get it where I like it.
Thanks to Morley's Muscle "you tube" vid
unk: after watching it, I went to work and it only took me a few minutes .
Waiting on the parts for my clutch to get in and then onto the next project.
It handles awesome but it's just a tad too stiff I'll give things a few rides to settle in and then Im thinking I'll cut the spacers down in the forks 1/8th of an inch untill I get it where I like it.
Thanks to Morley's Muscle "you tube" vid
unk: after watching it, I went to work and it only took me a few minutes .Waiting on the parts for my clutch to get in and then onto the next project.
I finished the install of the Progressive fork springs I bought at Python and took my Bitch for a fast ride up into the local twisties (San Diego mountains). :eusa_dance:
It handles awesome but it's just a tad too stiff I'll give things a few rides to settle in and then Im thinking I'll cut the spacers down in the forks 1/8th of an inch untill I get it where I like it.
Thanks to Morley's Muscle "you tube" vid
Waiting on the parts for my clutch to get in and then onto the next project.
You might be able to soften it up a little with lighter weight fork oil.
Redbone
Well-Known Member
I would put some kind of indicator on the fork that will show what kind of travel your using. I'm using a ziptie and I have ~ 4.5" of fork travel but I think I can remove 1/8" to 1/4" more to get closer to the full 5.5" of fork travel. I am running Progressive springs and Intimanator with 5wt oil. Suspension is compliant and well controlled, the best this front end has worked since I have owned it.unk:
unk:
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Dbl post.
Chief Gunner
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tips guy's; I used 15W Spectro oil and cut the spacers to the 9.37 spec Progressive recommended. If memory serves me right the OEM stuff is only 10W. I'll play with them on Sat and see if I can dial them in.
I like the zip strip idea to gauge the length of fork travel. The zips tied to the allen worked nice with my mighty vac getting the fluid level right.
I like the zip strip idea to gauge the length of fork travel. The zips tied to the allen worked nice with my mighty vac getting the fluid level right.
The Beekeeper
Well-Known Member
Rebuilt my front brake master cyl tonight, thanks for the kit Sean!.........While I was there I lifted the front end and did the bounce test, FAIL, followed an instructional video found here.......Thanks again Sean!............And dialed it in, couple of laps around the block felt good but I will try to get it out on the road tomorrow and see how it feels....................Now, to get that 170 mounted................:biglaugh:........................Tom.
Chief Gunner
Well-Known Member
So I was riding yesterday and noticed my horn was buzzing and intermitant at best. Got home and broke out the multi meter and checked the leads. The 12V DC was there when the switch was pushed so I rang out the horn itself and it had a short (probably just some corrosion inside).
So I went down to Autozone and browsed around....I was surprised to find that they had something that worked perfectly.
This is a generic "Asian" model car horn, it bolted right up, plugged right in and even had a red ring that matches the red highlights I painted to some of the parts on my bike.
It's much louder than the stock horn, and has been tested on cages getting to close already. I thought that it was pretty cool for a $12 mod so I thought I'd share here:biglaugh:
So I went down to Autozone and browsed around....I was surprised to find that they had something that worked perfectly.
This is a generic "Asian" model car horn, it bolted right up, plugged right in and even had a red ring that matches the red highlights I painted to some of the parts on my bike.
It's much louder than the stock horn, and has been tested on cages getting to close already. I thought that it was pretty cool for a $12 mod so I thought I'd share here:biglaugh:
So I was riding yesterday and noticed my horn was buzzing and intermitant at best. Got home and broke out the multi meter and checked the leads. The 12V DC was there when the switch was pushed so I rang out the horn itself and it had a short (probably just some corrosion inside).
So I went down to Autozone and browsed around....I was surprised to find that they had something that worked perfectly.
This is a generic "Asian" model car horn, it bolted right up, plugged right in and even had a red ring that matches the red highlights I painted to some of the parts on my bike.
It's much louder than the stock horn, and has been tested on cages getting to close already. I thought that it was pretty cool for a $12 mod so I thought I'd share here:biglaugh:
do you have anymore specifics on the horn model? definitely interested
Well this was actually yesterday but anyways....
On my way home after this one turn there is a bit of a straight away, its hilly but you are going in one direction for a few miles so I open it up from first gear. Not racing but I would like to eventually go down to the track so little by little I am getting use to how hard this bike accelerates. Anyhow I kill first, kill second and then when I was going to third I cant get it to stick, It pops out to neutral. I am still not 100% positive if I was in third or second when this happened, I am thinking third because I was going fast as hell. I kept my eyes on the road rather then my speedodmiter so I dont know the speed. Now when it kicked it down to neutral at first I thought I just didn't shift right. I started getting worried when I couldn't get it back to second. I would shift up but it wouldn't catch. After a few try's when I shifted up I held it in the up position while giving it gas and slowly letting the clutch go and it caught. After that I kept shifting up avoiding second gear. After I got back in my parking lot I played around with shifting first and second and didnt' have a problem.
Looks like I need some new gears.
On my way home after this one turn there is a bit of a straight away, its hilly but you are going in one direction for a few miles so I open it up from first gear. Not racing but I would like to eventually go down to the track so little by little I am getting use to how hard this bike accelerates. Anyhow I kill first, kill second and then when I was going to third I cant get it to stick, It pops out to neutral. I am still not 100% positive if I was in third or second when this happened, I am thinking third because I was going fast as hell. I kept my eyes on the road rather then my speedodmiter so I dont know the speed. Now when it kicked it down to neutral at first I thought I just didn't shift right. I started getting worried when I couldn't get it back to second. I would shift up but it wouldn't catch. After a few try's when I shifted up I held it in the up position while giving it gas and slowly letting the clutch go and it caught. After that I kept shifting up avoiding second gear. After I got back in my parking lot I played around with shifting first and second and didnt' have a problem.
Looks like I need some new gears.
FootNote: If you're sure you are getting solidly into gear, Yes new gears. IF your shifter isn't adjusted properly to make a solid, certain shift, it may need adjusting so you can get more pressure on the shift.. Good Luck..
I will admit the possibility of not shifting with enough pressure and thats why it got kicked to neutral, but not being able to get it back in second was a mechanical problem with out a doubt.
mounted some new shiny (well not shiny but new) manifold covers custom made by my brother..
because of my frame braces, took some work to mount them. they require a 1" nylon spacer but i needed to use threaded rod b/c if i don't the threads get buggered on the manifold itself. threaded rod/nylon spacer/nut to clamp that together then the covers sit on those nuts with a acorn nut and washer on the outside.
because of my frame braces, took some work to mount them. they require a 1" nylon spacer but i needed to use threaded rod b/c if i don't the threads get buggered on the manifold itself. threaded rod/nylon spacer/nut to clamp that together then the covers sit on those nuts with a acorn nut and washer on the outside.
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Those look pretty good. Goes well with the knee guards
Those look pretty good. Goes well with the knee guards
thnx man
haha that picture must be at just the right angle, its filthy and full of pollen!
