How hard is it to change fork seals?

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NM_MAX said:
Thanks everyone for all the responses. Based on what you guys have said, I think I'm going to give this a shot.

What is the best place to go for parts?
Click to expand...

morley should have everything you need in stock.

85vmax said:
Agreed, the copper rings is what slowed us up...couldn't figure why we couldn't get the seal down and the clip in (we did not pull the other seal.) After a couple more beers.....
I finally just used a flat punch and small hammer and tapped it in.
Putting the cap on the forks were a breeze....off the bike I sat and held the sliders...buddy had the caps pushed down with a rachet, and I just turned the sliders a couple times and it caught...then tightened with the rachet.
I think its better this way...turning the rachet and pushing may cause crossthreading because your never straight under pressure.
Click to expand...

yea we were turning the slider a bit too if i remember correctly. i didn't like the idea tho, but it was really the only way to do it. i was extremely careful to make sure it caught carefully. took 5 tries or so if i felt any resistance i stopped immediately.

10k miles later, everything is holding up great. now if someone would just pave a god damn road in MA we'd be all set.
 
Hey Guys,

I just wanted to follow up and say thanks to everyone, especially Sean Morley for his great how-to videos.

I was able to get the seals changed out today and with the money I saved I put in Progressive Springs and a new set of brake pads.
 
I'm still in the middle of the job. I messed up the first one and had to redo it, but one is done! Now the other I can't get the bolt out, have to go find an impact wrench or dampener holder tool thing. Now I'm paranoid that bolt on the finished one isn't tight enough because I just did it with a regular socket wrench.

Not in a big hurry because I'm still waiting on a fork brace and I need to order some EBC-HH pads. I only want to put it back together once!

Too bad because it was nice in Seattle the last two days, now it's raining again.:tantrum:
 
VMAX NV said:
I'm still in the middle of the job. I messed up the first one and had to redo it, but one is done! Now the other I can't get the bolt out, have to go find an impact wrench or dampener holder tool thing. Now I'm paranoid that bolt on the finished one isn't tight enough because I just did it with a regular socket wrench.

Not in a big hurry because I'm still waiting on a fork brace and I need to order some EBC-HH pads. I only want to put it back together once!

Too bad because it was nice in Seattle the last two days, now it's raining again.:tantrum:
Click to expand...

I got a damper holding tool you can use NV. I made it to fit my '99 so it will work, no problem.

PM me if you want it.
 
VMAX NV said:
I'm still in the middle of the job. I messed up the first one and had to redo it, but one is done! Now the other I can't get the bolt out, have to go find an impact wrench or dampener holder tool thing. Now I'm paranoid that bolt on the finished one isn't tight enough because I just did it with a regular socket wrench.
Click to expand...

Well shitballs. Came home to find a small puddle of oil under my right fork, yes the one I did with just the socket wrench, so obviously it's not tight enough.

So should I just pull out the spring, put the damper tool down in and tighten it up more or should I take the whole thing apart just to make sure I did it right?
And do I need ANOTHER drain washer or will it still be ok?

At this point I think the $200 for the shop might have been worth it...
 
why not try going a bit tighter and have someone compress the fork as far as it will go while in the triple? use a torque wrench too!
 
Well, now I'm glad it leaked and I'm glad I was paranoid enough to take it all apart again...I had the stopper upside down! No wonder it leaked!

The good news is that I rebuilt it almost as fast as Sean! I think ended up doing one fork twice and one three times. Well, I really know how to do it now!

Hopefully the end of this thread for me,
Trevor aka VMAX NV aka THE NOOB WRENCHER
 
Good on ya Trevor, way to stick with it! Now you will save yourself countless dollars in the future to spend on the mod monkey!:punk:
 
I didn't bother taking the bolt out of the bottom. just took off the forks, removed oil, springs, dust seals & clips. Put the cap back on and pressurized it with a HAND pump (only a couple of PSI was needed) then compress the fork and the seal pops right out - if you leave some fork oil in there you'll get a face full of it

When reinstalling make sure there is no grit/rust spots/crud on the slider and run a bit of PVC tape around the sharp edge at the top. Then gently slide the new seal on with some new fork oil to help it along

ANY scratching on the inside of the seal will cause it to leak as soon as you get it on the road
 
CaptainKyle said:
Once you have done a ton of seals its a quick job hour and a half at the most & thats not busting your ass.
Click to expand...
First times always the bitch!

What size PVC pipe and coupler do I use to install seals/dust shields for the early 40mm 1985 forks?
 
rebar said:
First times always the bitch!

What size PVC pipe and coupler do I use to install seals/dust shields for the early 40mm 1985 forks?
Click to expand...
I dont use PVC I have the right tools for the job. I have a couple dedicated universal fork seal drivers I use on a reguler basis. If your not gonna do it all the time PVC is great but for as many diffrent bikes as I work on its not good for me. I am sure some one will chime in with the PVC size.
 
I'm interested in knowing the PVC/coupling Size needed for for a 2000 (43 mm Forks).
I have a Fork Seal leak and just ordered new seals, dust covers, clips and progressive springs.
I guess I could just measure them when I disassemble the Forks, but it would be easier if I had the Pipe and coupling ready before I got started.
 
We install thousands upon thousands of feet of PVC conduit every year. We are currently working on a project at Ohio University running about 6,000' feet through a HV right of way.

I have every size of sch 40 PVC from 1/2" up to 6" (and some larger sizes)on the shelf here at work. I could not find anything that matches the size of the fork seal.

We do not deal with schedule 10 PVC and I was not going to buy any ( I believe sch10 would do the trick) so, I hacked up a 1.5" coupling and connected it to a 2" PVC slide hammer. It was free, and it worked.


 
1 1/2" THIN WALL pvc with a coupling fits the newer style forks. I did mine last year. Took one side of the forks in to Ace hardware and made sure it would work. Fits perfectly for bushing and seal install.
 
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