Finally on the road again, with pic's.

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vmaxcruzer

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Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Painted frame and engine, looks nice but I will never do it again.
Replaced carb and V-boost boots.
Fixed oil pump "O" ring problem.
All new engine gaskets and O rings.
Starter clutch fixed, starter cleaned out.
Carb's rebuilt. New throttle cables.
Cleaned Fuel pump, filter and tank.
Stretched, notched and braced swing arm.
New wave rotors front and rear.
Butt load of powder coating.
Rear rotor off set bracket and Delrin engine mounts. Thanks Steve!
New carbon weave seat from Sean. Awesome!! My ass Really thanks you.
New front fork seals and Ricor intiminators.
LED blinkers front and rear, LED gauge illumination and idiot lights.
Front, rear wheel and swing arm bearings.
New thermostat and water temp sending unit.
Same old crappy horn. lol
Repacked cans.
Cleaned out front rear brake and clutch lines, slave, master cylinder. New DOT5 fluid.
So, I basically tore the bike down to the frame, cleaned, repainted and reassembled it again and added some new items along the way.
Today I had a chance to ride a bone stock 98 for a while to make a sound judgment on the difference and its quite noticeable. The longer wheel base just feels...right and in my opinion looks like the bike should have from the start. The front suspension works well, I can really feel the road now like a sport bike feel without sacrificing the plush ride.
The solid mounts don't give any extra vibes I thought they were going to, and recommend them to anyone, but I do have bar end weights that may be dampening the effect.
The LED's were a pain in the ass and I'm glad that mess is over. If you want to have the factory front dual element and rear single then prepare to get the soldering gun out and visit radio shack, or you can simply buy all the stuff needed at expense.
My rear stock rotor was shot so the larger wave is an improvement, not like it was needed but better braking is always a bonus.
I replaced all the O rings in the pan, and there are alot of them. My oil gauge shows better pressure after the engine is warm, between 3-6 PSI then a substantial rise with throttle. Before it would drop off to zero at idle and show a rise with throttle.
New carb boots brought an ever so sweet idle with no deflection. V-boost was WAY off on adjustment as well.
New throttle cables are nice too. You never notice till you replace them, my old ones weren't bad, at least I thought.
I completely dismantled my starter, cleaned it with electrical cleaner and lubed the bearings, Brushes had a lot of life left so I reassembled it. Starter clutch treatment was in order and now it cranks like a champ.
I disassembled the fuel pump and found some crap, along with a rubber flap floating around in there. Its MUCH quieter now.
I swapped out the speedo, tach, and temp gauge lights with red LED's, very cool! Neutral, high beam, blinker, and oil lights were changed as well. FYI, the fuel light has to stay incandescent, trust me on this one.
Last but not least is the new seat....I just feel stupid for not doing it earlier. Well worth it. Its all that and a bag of chips.
That is all for now, I'm gonna run the hell out of it for a while and maybe work on my next secret project in the fall.
Take care. Kenny
 

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awesome job :clapping: that extended swingarm looks sweet!!! Guess I will be lookin into that this winter when I do my triple tree and fork upgrade:biglaugh: there goes the monkey again:rofl_200:
 
Looks friggin awesome:clapping: Deserves a bike of the month award:eusa_dance:(we should have one)
 
Great job! You should be proud.

Where did the frame brace come from?

Thanks for the props guy's, I managed to keep the mod monkey away for a while now during build up, but I'm already spinning new ideas.
For now its off to Reno at the end of the week to get lost in the HD world.
 
The bike looks awesome, very nice lines! Your Mod Monkey is very proud of you and satisfied.... for now!

Happy trails, you deserve it!

Mike
 
On second thought...I really have to parley the at-ta boy's to Sean. If it weren't for him I would be under the kitchen sink in the fetal position sucking my thumb. I did a big time bad thing with my timing a few weeks ago and thought I screwed the pooch, then he hooked me up with a gasket that was taking forever from the dealer. He must have a twin coz there's no way one man can do....never mind I forgot...He's MAXMAN!!!
 
Excellent job Kenny! Now it is time to ride the wheels off it:punk: Oh and the Mod Monkey, don't worry he has plans, big plans, for your $$$$$:rofl_200:
 
If you sub out the gauge pod fuel light with an LED it won't come on when you run low, or it won't allow power to the pump depending on which way you have it installed. It has to have the original bulb in there so the power can be restored by the reserve switch after the red light comes on. LED's can only run energy one way where an incandescent bulb will run both.
 
If you sub out the gauge pod fuel light with an LED it won't come on when you run low, or it won't allow power to the pump depending on which way you have it installed.

So does this mean that if the incandescent bulb burns out, your fuel pump won't work through the reserve switch?
 

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