Free spin on rear tire?

[dmioton]

I tried spinning my rear wheel (on center stand) while in neutral, and found it didn't turn without significant effort. Even after spinning it hard, it wouldn't make a full revolution. Is this typical?

I just had new tires put on a few weeks ago, and had never actually spun it before. Just wondering if the axle nut may be too tight?

 

[KJShover]

It could be. I found that If the rear axle was torqued to "specs", it was way tight. I've been running just fine with about 45-50 ft/lbs for quite some time now.
Also keep in mind that the shaft, gears, and such aren't going to spin as freely as a chained/belt wheel would.

 

[Gotta V Max]

The tightness of the axle nut shouldn't make a difference, unless the wheel and its spindle and spacer have been put on wrong or the wheel bearings are worn out.

Could also be a seized rear brake caliper.

What size rear did you have fitted? If too wide on a standard swingarm, the tyre could be rubbing on the left side of swingarm.

Make sure that there is the spacing washer between the rightside swingarm and the caliper mounting arm.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I usually screw the nut before clamping on the right side. When screwing the nut the axle slides leftwards and when you start to feel the slide its time to clamp it on the right. Then go adjust the nut a bit more... Never had a problem.

 

[dmioton]

The tightness of the axle nut shouldn't make a difference, unless the wheel and its spindle and spacer have been put on wrong or the wheel bearings are worn out.

Could also be a seized rear brake caliper.

What size rear did you have fitted? If too wide on a standard swingarm, the tyre could be rubbing on the left side of swingarm.

Make sure that there is the spacing washer between the rightside swingarm and the caliper mounting arm.

I just put on ME 170 in the back. It's close, but there is clearance between the tire and swingarm. Also, there are no rubbing marks on the tire.

If the rear caliper wasn't functioning properly would it affect the braking? It works fine when braking, but it actually feels like that sort of drag when i spin it. Should I remove the pads and try to spin it?

 

[Miles Long]

The tightness of the axle nut shouldn't make a difference, unless the wheel and its spindle and spacer have been put on wrong or the wheel bearings are worn out.

Could also be a seized rear brake caliper.

What size rear did you have fitted? If too wide on a standard swingarm, the tyre could be rubbing on the left side of swingarm.

Make sure that there is the spacing washer between the rightside swingarm and the caliper mounting arm.

As noted, there is a lot of resistance at work that will limit the rear tire's ability to spin freely, noteably the drive assembly and the rear brake-even a properly functioning disc brake will have some resistance.
There may not be a problem with your bike at all. The easiest way to determine this is to compare it with another well-maintained V-max.

I took the rear caliper from my bike apart this past winter, and cleaned everything up. I had been going thru brake pads quickly, and the rotor had worn down to minimum recommended thickness. All the accumulated crud around the pistons had been preventing them from retracting fully. Following the overhaul, all is fine.
If you suspect that your rear caliper may be sticking, or seized, take your bike out for a run, trying not to use the rear brake to stop. Immediately after stopping , check the rotor for temperature. If it is hot, or very warm to the touch, the caliper should be overhauled.

 

[dmioton]

As noted, there is a lot of resistance at work that will limit the rear tire's ability to spin freely, noteably the drive assembly and the rear brake-even a properly functioning disc brake will have some resistance.
There may not be a problem with your bike at all. The easiest way to determine this is to compare it with another well-maintained V-max.

I took the rear caliper from my bike apart this past winter, and cleaned everything up. I had been going thru brake pads quickly, and the rotor had worn down to minimum recommended thickness. All the accumulated crud around the pistons had been preventing them from retracting fully. Following the overhaul, all is fine.
If you suspect that your rear caliper may be sticking, or seized, take your bike out for a run, trying not to use the rear brake to stop. Immediately after stopping , check the rotor for temperature. If it is hot, or very warm to the touch, the caliper should be overhauled.

Great idea. I'll do that on my way home tonight. Thanks!

 

[Rusty McNeil]

The tightness of the axle nut shouldn't make a difference, unless the wheel and its spindle and spacer have been put on wrong or the wheel bearings are worn out.

Technically I agree 100%, due to the way the inner wheel spacer and other stuff is supposed to keep you from being able to "crush" the bearings by over tightening................

but experience has shown me that nonethess it does affect it.....

The axle is shouldered on the right side so that you should be able to tighten the nut before tightening the clamp on the right side without affecting bearing tension at all. Tightening the nut after tightening the clamp Will pull the two sides of the swingarm together some if they aren't already. I compromise somewhere in the middle by tightening the nut up to about 60% and then the clamp and then finsihing the nut....

I also only torque it to about 70% of the factory value...

The fact that the swingarm is made out of spaghetti doesn't help...

 

[Gotta V Max]

I would suggest trying to either remove the pads (which may be difficult if the pistons are seized) or remove the caliper. No need to disconnect the brake pipe. Just make sure the caliper isn't hanging on it.

You'll know when you spin the wheel if this is the problem.

 

[COP RUNNER]

i . I JUST PUT NEW TIRES ON MY BIKE RECENTLY , I HAVE MY MY REAR AXLE NUT TORQUED TO 95 FT. LBS. , I TIGHTEN THE NUT ALL THE WAY THEN TIGHTEN THE RIGHT SIDE CLAP , MINE SPINS FREELY WITH MY PINKY ! . unk:

 

[SpecOps13]

There are 2 trains of thought about rear axle tightening. Factory Spec and 50 or so ft lbs. I'm one to agree with 50 ft lbs...

Yamaha had some trouble with the 85's front wheel being torqued too tight, crushing the original front wheel bearing spacer... Oops...:confused2:

 

[sdt354]

I would suggest trying to either remove the pads (which may be difficult if the pistons are seized) or remove the caliper. No need to disconnect the brake pipe. Just make sure the caliper isn't hanging on it.

You'll know when you spin the wheel if this is the problem.

+1 I've a feeling the caliper isn't spaced right. Pull it to eliminate it, then spin the wheel.
Steve-o

 

[alorio1]

You said some one installed new tires recently, did they have a tire machine or did they spoon them on with tire tools. If you change them on a cement floor without 2x4s under the wheel to keep the brake disk from making contact with surface, you may have a warped brake disk.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

You said some one installed new tires recently, did they have a tire machine or did they spoon them on with tire tools. If you change them on a cement floor without 2x4s under the wheel to keep the brake disk from making contact with surface, you may have a warped brake disk.

For sure if the resistance to being spun/moved is rythmic and coming and going as it rotates it's going to be the brake disc? Pulling the caliper would answer that pretty easily