new battery~no power

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Bill Kratzenberg

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Bike hasn't run since october, finally got it back together and tried to start it. the lights turned on for a half a second real dim then nothing. tested my battery and the voltage was way low. so i bought a new pc 680 and it tested 100%, installed it and turned the key and nothing at all happened this time. checked fuses and all good. and yes i have the switch on "run"
Anyone have any ideas for me :ummm:
 
NOTHING happened? no lights?

did u take a wire brush to the terminals before u installed the battery?
 
Ground is good? What voltage does the battery read before and during "key on"?

I will have to check that tomorrow Bob, but the voltage was 12.80 with key off.

No lights no nothing Garrett

I will take it apart tomorrow and clean well then re install, hopefully its something simple
 
Turn key on and put screwdriver across the starter relay terminals. See if it starts.
 
I'm sorry to hear you're having issues Bill, I just read through Ryan's charging circuit post and reading you were having trouble it made me think about the key switch wiring for some reason. Other then that shaman like thought, sounds like you have some very good suggestions to help you through this issue.
I hope it's something simple to diagnose and you can hear that beautiful Vmax roar back to life.!
:happybday: :th_2fc2c5a5: :th_party33: BTW, belated birthday wishes Bill!! :th_party33: :git: :happybday:
 
im thinking the ground wire not on batt end but on the frame side might need to be cleaned or not attached fully, could be bad cable itself.
i mean your bike is a little rotted isn't it bill :whistlin: you gotta keep that and the rest cleaner man :rofl_200:

was your bday, happy belated man:punk:
 
Turn key on and put screwdriver across the starter relay terminals. See if it starts.

+1, also if it cranks but doesn't start you'll know the Battery connections are prolly ok Bill. Then look to by pass the key switch next. pm'd you on this.
Steve
 
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I just cleaned the connections and put them back together and still nothing.
checked the voltage on the battery with the key on and off and its the same. seems like it would be the switch then? I will check my other grounds and make sure they are clean.

steve, there is no cranking, lights,or anything at all, just dead...

Oh and my Bday is in october, but thanks anyway :biglaugh:
 
You stated that you checked fuses and they were good, so we are assuming that you pulled the seat and checked the main fuse.
 
if the key doesn't do anything then we're not even to the point to check the starter.

bill, plug in your old battery? u def checked the main fuse? coulda not been blown but came unplugged? Maybe the main harness is corroded and moving it around caused it to become unconnected.
 
Hi Bill!

Just read this. Hmm, not fun.

I would start by clipping the black lead from yolt meter on a good frame earth and leave it there, with the ignition on.
Then test the voltage at the battery +ve using the red lead from your volt meter.

If it's got good voltage (like you said. duh) then follow the little red wire from the battery to the main fuse and check voltage on both terminals. The check for battery voltage on all the fuse terminals (both sides of fuse) in the fuse block, and all the wires coming from the ignition switch.

If any of those don't get good battery voltage, let us know which ones. Someone will pinpoint exactly where to look from there. It probably is related to the main fuse or ignition switch.

Also, charge the battery up, even if it has voltage! :biglaugh:
 
Sounds like an issue with the start button and it isn't closing the contact. Try a quick shot of contact cleaner into it to see if it fixes it.
 
Thanks for the replies...
i am making a little progress with this. when i checked the fuses, i checked the ones in the block not the main fuse. the main fuse under the seat was bad, so i changed it out and turned the key on again and it popped immediately. apparently i have a short somewhere, and i'm thinking back to what i've done electrical. New turn signals, shift light, and i added those colored bulb covers in my speedometer and instrument cover. So i guess i just need to start narrowing down where the short is. Just don't know why the main fuse would blow before the ones in the block?
 
Hey Bill,

if you have a proper short circuit, I think the main fuse will always go first.

The things I would check first are all the light bulbs - it is possible for a bulb to short when they blow. Just remove them all and test them with a multimeter if you have one, starting with headlamp, rear + brake, all 4 blinkers, and then if still nothing try unplugging the main connectors for your speedo and tacho assemblies and try again.

Get a box of fuses - it'll make your life easier!

If it isn't any of the bulbs, it could be a failed component but is most likely to be your wiring loom. Two options there: a) some critter like a squirrel or mice have chewed through it while it sat or b) some wires worn out, this most likely occurs where the harness moves, like at the steering column everytime you turn the bars.

The thing about the Vmax wiring is, you can isolate pretty much every component from the main harness, so by process of elimination you should be able to find where your short is, and if after unplugging everything it hasn't gone, then you'll know it'll be in the harness itself in which case you're better off replacing it. I did this on my bike and it was surprisingly easier than I had thought.

Hopefully it's something easy like a bulb or a burnt component, keep us posted and we'll do what we can to help!
 
Thanks for the replies...
i am making a little progress with this. when i checked the fuses, i checked the ones in the block not the main fuse. the main fuse under the seat was bad, so i changed it out and turned the key on again and it popped immediately. apparently i have a short somewhere, and i'm thinking back to what i've done electrical. New turn signals, shift light, and i added those colored bulb covers in my speedometer and instrument cover. So i guess i just need to start narrowing down where the short is. Just don't know why the main fuse would blow before the ones in the block?
I had this same issue when I was messing with my aftermarket turnsignals (incadescent) which ended up being a bad bulb. Once the offending bulb was replaced I had no more problem.
I hope it's this easy, because then Bob can be your Uncle too!:biglaugh:
 
bill i hope its not a issue with that dang horn wire being pinched on the bracket lol, im sure you will find it, must be wire caught under something......

you can also get a circuit breaker with the same amp as that main fuse, so when it pops you just rest it, way better then chg fuses out, ones you get it figured out then pop a reg fuse back in its place, a little cheaper on the long run for diagnosing the issue.

good luck man
 
you can also get a circuit breaker with the same amp as that main fuse, so when it pops you just rest it, way better then chg fuses out, ones you get it figured out then pop a reg fuse back in its place, a little cheaper on the long run for diagnosing the issue.

What a great idea :clapping:
 
bill i hope its not a issue with that dang horn wire being pinched on the bracket lol, im sure you will find it, must be wire caught under something......

you can also get a circuit breaker with the same amp as that main fuse, so when it pops you just rest it, way better then chg fuses out, ones you get it figured out then pop a reg fuse back in its place, a little cheaper on the long run for diagnosing the issue.

good luck man

I second G ... great idea Tugla. Do you have any specifics / a pic of one that might work ?
 

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