VMAX Outlaw - Bad Temp Switch

[VMAX Eddie]

So I have my mostly stock VMAX and I've been upgrading some things along the way.

Did the crimp fix and indeed I went from 16vdc charging to 17.1 vdc charging. Phenomenal!

The thing has been running hot as hell whenever I get stuck in traffic or behind damn Sunday drivers. So I ordered the switch from Vmax Outlaw to have the fan switch come on 20F sooner.

Well I got it last week and decided to go ahead and put it in. While I was there I decided to flush the whole cooling system and get some fresh stuff in there. So I went through the whole deal and then got the switch installed.

Very excitedly I turned on the key in preparation of the new upgrades and what happens? The damn fan comes on as soon as I turn the key!

Now the thing hasn't run in a couple days and has fresh, cold, fluid in it so I'm like FUCK! Had to borrow wrenches from a neighbor just to get the old one out and new one in since I don't have any that big. Already brought them back too!

I gave the damn thing a few wacks with a hammer to see if I could free up the switch but no dice. So now I gotta take the damn thing out, put back in the stock switch and wait for a turn around from Outlaw.

What a pain in the ass! I know I read they tested the switches before sending them out so WTF!

Very disappointed. Anyone else had problems with their switches?

 

[[email protected]]

Quite a few like the thermoswitch. I think they are a bad idea. The fan runs too much with them IMO. If you really feel the need to get the fan on sooner, id go for a manual switch. If you must have a thermo switch, you can get one from the auto parts store for much less than the outlaw switch. There are a few posts with alternate thermostat and thermoswitch PNs. Do a google search for "thermoswitch site:vmaxforum.net"

Just fyi, if the gauge gets up to the edge of the red zone before the fan comes on, that is normal. Doesn't take long for this to happen in traffic.

If you are running deep in the red zone and the fan doesn't come on or runs constantly without dropping the temp then id start worrying.

 

[one2dmax]

They do test them but they aren't the greatest things either way. I don't ever bother with them since that's the kind of crap you end up with. We just add an override switch!

 

[VMAX Eddie]

Quite a few like the thermoswitch. I think they are a bad idea. The fan runs too much with them IMO. If you really feel the need to get the fan on sooner, id go for a manual switch. If you must have a thermo switch, you can get one from the auto parts store for much less than the outlaw switch. There are a few posts with alternate thermostat and thermoswitch PNs. Do a google search for "thermoswitch site:vmaxforum.net"

Just fyi, if the gauge gets up to the edge of the red zone before the fan comes on, that is normal. Doesn't take long for this to happen in traffic.

If you are running deep in the red zone and the fan doesn't come on or runs constantly without dropping the temp then id start worrying.
__________________
Mike

They do test them but they aren't the greatest things either way. I don't ever bother with them since that's the kind of crap you end up with. We just add an override switch!

I just liked the idea of not having to worry about watching the temp gage anymore. With a manual switch I have to still keep an eye on it and would rather it just be where it's supposed to. I read the one guy who cut into the kill switch so he didn't have to mount a toggle however. That's probably how I'd do it too.

It's not getting past red but right on the line, and won't drop even after the fan comes on unless I'm moving. Just sits there cooking. Once it gets that hot weird shit starts happening. The carbs will "hiccup" and I've been having oil "missing" issues that seem related to the temp. There's other small signs it is generally not a happy VMAX when it happens.

I saw that people used the NAPA gage so I called NAPA about it. There is discrepencies in the temps it turns off/on listed around and on their site so was trying to clarify with them. The guy was a total shitbag on the phone at my local NAPA so I said F it and went with VMO.

The one at the local NAPA was coming in at just above $40. So I figured for $20 more might as well go with VMO since it comes with easy directions, leads, o-ring, thread seal, and shrink wrap.

The NAPA one however has a 3 year warranty vs 3 months at VMO. I dunno, maybe I should just ask for a refund then and wire it into the engine kill switch.

While on the topic of VMO gear....
What about the VMO T-boost switch? It's only $29. I've seen the tips on how to completely remove the RPM reliance, but also read that unless you put hi-performance exhaust it's pointless. I thought a toggle to have it come on at 3k RPMs or at the stock 6k would be a good deal since I have stock exhaust right now and may go with custom as some point. Thought 3k might work even with stock also.

 

[maleko89]

I too have cooler thermo switch. My legs no longer get baked and never had an issue with the fan running more often.

 

[rusty]

Very disappointed. Anyone else had problems with their switches?

Yep, got the same thing from Outlaw. The fan ran all the time & that gave me battery issues. I just sent the dam thing back & put a manual switch on.:biglaugh:

 

[VMAX Eddie]

I too have cooler thermo switch. My legs no longer get baked and never had an issue with the fan running more often.

You have the VMO one or one of the other recomended ones like NAPA's?
And how long has it been working good for you?

Yep, got the same thing from Outlaw. The fan ran all the time & that gave me battery issues. I just sent the dam thing back & put a manual switch on.

Seems like they would make it better. If the NAPA one works and comes with the 3 year warranty VMO should use it for their sensor. Charge the same because they do put it together and it's good to go, but have a better product. Who knows where they're getting this shit from. Luckily my batt is strong, but I'm taking this thing back out tomorrow. At least my fluid is fresh!

 

[KJShover]

Manual switch on mine. Normally don't need it. But it's been a nice, hot summer and I used it a few times in traffic. I thought about the thermo-switch, but under $5 to do the manual switch won out.


.

 

[marsmax85]

I put in a temp control thermostat fan comes on at 200 degrees keeps me and bike nice and warm . Really didn't like the idea manual switch there's enuff on road to worry about . Easy install and no worries ..I still peak at gauge tho to make sure still working . Needle never moves past halfway ..

 

[sdt354]

So I have my mostly stock VMAX and I've been upgrading some things along the way.

Did the crimp fix and indeed I went from 16vdc charging to 17.1 vdc charging. Phenomenal!

The thing has been running hot as hell whenever I get stuck in traffic or behind damn Sunday drivers. So I ordered the switch from Vmax Outlaw to have the fan switch come on 20F sooner.

Well I got it last week and decided to go ahead and put it in. While I was there I decided to flush the whole cooling system and get some fresh stuff in there. So I went through the whole deal and then got the switch installed.

Very excitedly I turned on the key in preparation of the new upgrades and what happens? The damn fan comes on as soon as I turn the key!

Now the thing hasn't run in a couple days and has fresh, cold, fluid in it so I'm like FUCK! Had to borrow wrenches from a neighbor just to get the old one out and new one in since I don't have any that big. Already brought them back too!

I gave the damn thing a few wacks with a hammer to see if I could free up the switch but no dice. So now I gotta take the damn thing out, put back in the stock switch and wait for a turn around from Outlaw.

What a pain in the ass! I know I read they tested the switches before sending them out so WTF!

Very disappointed. Anyone else had problems with their switches?

17 volts is way too high. Most struggle to reach 14 volts, well I do. Check the meter caibration? Voltage (pressure) goes up, current (volume) goes down. The service manual has a max voltage spec. It's in the low 14's I believe. High voltage to the cdi/tci, light bulbs, ect, is a possible issue.
Either a fan switch for an '88 Nissan Sentra or Borg Warner TFS545 will do it. The fan does come on early, about 175 degrees. And the fan runs alot, like mentioned. But I seldom go over mid gauge on the hottest day.I have a cheap old Duralast switch from Auto Zone, it's 5 years old.
I have the over ride wired too, in case the switch goes south on a hot day.

 

[gamorg02]

+1, 17v seems way too high. usually most warnings come on at 16v, i'd check the R&R.

 

[jfeagins]

I too have cooler thermo switch. My legs no longer get baked and never had an issue with the fan running more often.

+1

100 some odd years ago, in a galaxy far far away, I put the Napa switch in mine and have NEVER regretted it. No worry whatsoever. I know the fan will kick in just above the tiny black dot on the guage, and I never have to remember to switch anything back off. Fully automatic with ZERO battery issues because of it.

Also, either your volt meter is shooting high #'s, or your R/R needs swapped out pronto, cause 17.1V is liable to torch your battery, and maybe more.

 

[maleko89]

You have the VMO one or one of the other recomended ones like NAPA's?
And how long has it been working good for you?

I believe it's the Borg Warner TFS545 which is probably the same as NAPA. On my old '89 I had it starting at 17,000 miles and sold the bike when it had about 78,000...no issues. Current bike has been on there for about 20,000 so far w/o issues. On both bikes I made the usual charging system/ignition system fixes and ran a PC680 battery.

 

[VMAX Eddie]

+1, 17v seems way too high. usually most warnings come on at 16v, i'd check the R&R.

Escuse my ignorance but I've seen the R/R listed elsewhere and I do not know what that stands for :ummm: Repair and Restore? Road Runner? :rofl_200:

175 degrees or just around the black dot seems way to soon to me. When does it shut back off if it's coming on so early, or does it? This is what I was trying to clarify with NAPA. It seems to me if it's around 20 degrees shift, or slightly less, the fan would run when it it supposed to. Otherwise the fan will just continually run for the most part. I don't want that. It seems to me it should go on around 1/2way between the center dot and the start of the red line or just above, and go off around the center dot or just above. Isn't there a sensor that will do this? The stock sensor turns off at the right spot for me at right near the center line, but just comes on too late.

Really didn't like the idea manual switch there's enuff on road to worry about .

That's how I feel too. I don't mind peaking at the gages, and expect to, but I don't want to have to focus on the fan and have to micro manage it. It's a damn radiator fan!

17 volts is way too high. Most struggle to reach 14 volts, well I do. Check the meter caibration?

I believe my meter is fine. I have another one I can put on it though for comparison. That sucks because I thought I was doing great getting that extra volt from the crimp fix.

I will be very happy when I get through all these standard maintenance issues and Mr. Max is happy happy unk:

 

[VMAX Eddie]

Well quick update. I went out to check my meter on lunch and got some weird number of like 25vdc. Was like WHAT!? :bang head:

So changed the battery and also dug out my Fluke and changed that battery.

Now both reading better. 13.77vdc on Fluke and 14vdc on cheapo meter. That's charging at idle. Just over 12vdc not running. So that should be good to go, no worries.

Back to the switch...
When I first turned on the key the fan did not come on. Got excited for a minute. I had it running for a few minutes while checking the volts and by the time I got done the fan was on. Shut the bike down and turned the key on and sure enough it was running. The temp gage was less than 1/4 the way up the scale!

So it may not be completely inop but coming on way WAY to early. I might as well just splice the wires and bypass the temp switch all together than use this thing.

 

[gamorg02]

sounds much much better. regulator/rectifier.

 

[VMAX Eddie]

Another quick update. I may have to take back some of my animosity towards Vmax Outlaw.
I took the low temp switch back out and reinstalled the stock one.
Well the fan came right on again when I turned on the key!

So now I don't know WTF. Guess I'm going to have to trace the wires or something.

 

[VMAX Eddie]

So here's the scoop...

Apparently when I removed the stock switch I cracked the plastic molding around one of the terminals. When I move around the switch it will turn on and off. I can fix that.

I reinstalled the VMO switch. It was off on cold engine, open switch. So I decided to test more closely when it turns on. With my meter on the switch the switch closed at the small triangle line just above the C on the temp gage. Really? That low!

I opened the radiator pressure cap and stuck my finger in and while it was warm->hot it was not THAT hot or scalding. Dug out the oven temp gage we have for checking turkey's, don't tell my wife and stuck it in the open valve as far as I could get it into the liquid which was about half way up the stem. After a few minutes it went up to right around 150F.

So I'm not entirely sure why the thing came on after the radiator flush. It was hot outside and the bike was in the sun for a while, but not enough to bring it to 150F. Regardless the switch is coming on WAY too soon. I see no specs on the VMO sight about these.

Does anyone know what temps the Vmax Outlaw - Low Temperature Switch is supposed to turn on and turn off at?

 

[VMAX Eddie]

I will say one more thing on this thread. After the full flush of my cooling system I am noticing MUCH better cooling. I mean I did it thorough. Had the hose in there for near an hour. Would open up one side, then the other, then both, then just one plug. Take the hose out, then back in, till I got nothing but pure clear in the drainage.

Filled with just fresh radiator fluid and jugged water we leave out for the plants. We let it sit out so the chlorine evaporates.

50/50 mix and even when the temp gets up at the red line the fan can actually drop it some now. Get's it off and below the line. Then as soon as I start moving it comes right down. Riding around in hot weather even with some stops it stays around the middle of the temp gage.

I still think the fan should come off sooner though. Same off time, sooner on time. Definitely learned something about keeping clean fluid in the radiator.